What Is Microneedling?

Microneedling is a minimally invasive transdermal delivery technique that uses very small needles to create temporary openings in the skin. These openings can facilitate the penetration of substances that would otherwise have difficulty passing through the skin barrier.

Microneedles can range from approximately 100 to 1500 μm in length, while the stratum corneum is typically around 10–30 μm thick.

Microneedling and Cosmetic Ingredient Delivery

By creating microscopic pores, microneedling can facilitate the delivery of larger molecules, including certain peptides and other hydrophilic ingredients.

The effectiveness of the technique depends partly on the mechanical properties of the skin. Skin elasticity can cause the skin to deform under pressure, potentially reducing penetration and pore formation.

Microneedling and Peptides

Research has investigated microneedling as a delivery method for cosmetic peptides. One in-vitro study evaluated solid microneedle arrays consisting of 121 needles for the delivery of acetyl hexapeptide-3 through pig ear skin.

The study reported substantially higher peptide permeation when microneedles were applied compared with untreated skin, demonstrating the potential of this approach for enhancing topical peptide delivery.

Microneedling in Cosmetic Product Development

Microneedling can therefore be considered a delivery-enhancement technology for cosmetic actives, particularly ingredients with limited ability to penetrate the skin on their own. Its use requires consideration of the ingredient, delivery system, microneedle characteristics and intended application.

References

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology – Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems

What Are Antioxidant Peptides?

Antioxidant peptides are short chains of amino acids that can help counteract oxidative stress by donating an electron or hydrogen atom to stabilise free radicals. They may also bind metal ions, such as copper, which can be involved in biological processes associated with inflammation and skin ageing.

Oxidative stress can result from factors including mitochondrial metabolism and UV radiation. The accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) is associated with signalling pathways that can affect collagen synthesis and increase the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).

Factors Affecting Antioxidant Activity

The antioxidant activity of a peptide depends on several structural characteristics, including:

• Molecular weight: smaller peptides generally have a greater ability to donate hydrogen or electrons.
• Hydrophobicity: greater hydrophobicity may improve interaction with hydrophobic cellular structures such as biological membranes.
• Amino acid sequence: the specific amino acids and their arrangement influence antioxidant activity.

Hydrolyzed Collagen Peptides

Hydrolyzed collagen, also known as collagen hydrolysate, is produced by enzymatic hydrolysis of collagen proteins. Hydrolyzed collagen is widely used in cosmetics because of its biocompatibility, biodegradability and low toxicity when applied topically. It is also used as a moisturising ingredient for the stratum corneum.

Research cited by A&T Formulation indicates that smaller collagen peptides, particularly those below approximately 10 kDa, can show greater antioxidant activity. In one study of sheep-skin collagen hydrolysates, the highest radical-scavenging activity was observed after four hours of hydrolysis, with 67.6% activity in the ABTS assay and 52.75% in the DPPH assay.

Antioxidant Peptides in Skincare

Antioxidant peptides are therefore of interest in skincare formulations designed to address the visible effects associated with oxidative stress and skin ageing. Their effectiveness depends on the specific peptide, molecular structure, formulation and concentration.

What Is Copper Tripeptide-1?

Copper Tripeptide-1 (Cu-GHK) was one of the first peptides used in cosmetics for topical skin applications. It is a copper complex of the tripeptide GHK (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) and resembles a sequence found in the alpha chain of collagen.

How Does Copper Tripeptide-1 Work?

Copper Tripeptide-1 is classified as a carrier peptide and has been investigated for its effects on several processes involved in skin structure and repair.

Studies have associated Cu-GHK with stimulation of:

• Collagen synthesis
• Glycosaminoglycan synthesis
• Elastin synthesis
• Proteoglycan synthesis
• Fibroblast activity

It has also been investigated for its potential anti-inflammatory effects and its role in supporting the skin barrier.

Copper Tripeptide-1 in Skincare

Copper Tripeptide-1 is used in cosmetic formulations targeting the visible signs of skin ageing. Its applications include products formulated to improve the appearance of:

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Hyperpigmentation
• Photoaged skin
• Loss of firmness

It has also been studied in relation to keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal repair.

Research on Copper Tripeptide-1

A study cited by A&T Formulation investigated Cu-GHK in combination with therapeutic LED light. The study reported an approximately 230% increase in pro-collagen type I synthesis and an approximately 30% increase in basic fibroblast growth factor production. These findings support continued research into Cu-GHK as an ingredient for skin-ageing and skin-repair applications.

References

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology – Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems

What Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1?

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a signal peptide formed by conjugating palmitic acid with tripeptide-1. The addition of palmitic acid increases the peptide's lipophilic character, which is relevant to its use in topical cosmetic formulations.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 can function as a signal peptide and, when complexed with copper, can also act as a carrier peptide.

How Does Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Work?

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is associated with signalling pathways involving transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β). TGF-β is involved in the activity of dermal fibroblasts, which produce extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins.

Through this mechanism, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is studied for its potential to support the skin's extracellular matrix and improve the appearance of wrinkles.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in Skincare

The ingredient is primarily used in anti-ageing skincare formulations, where peptides are selected to target specific biological processes associated with the visible signs of skin ageing.

Its use is particularly relevant in formulations designed to support the appearance of smoother and firmer-looking skin.

References

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology – Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems

What Are Anti-Aging Peptides?

Anti-aging peptides are peptides applied to the skin with the aim of producing a local cosmetic effect. They can interact with processes involved in changes to the structure, appearance, functionality and homeostasis of the skin.

Based on their mechanisms of action, anti-aging peptides can be broadly classified into several groups.

Types of Anti-Aging Peptides

Bioactive Peptides

Bioactive peptides can act on processes associated with skin repair and renewal. Research has investigated their ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, support cell proliferation and influence melanogenesis.

Antioxidant Peptides

Antioxidant peptides can help neutralise reactive oxygen species (ROS) and are therefore of interest in formulations designed to provide antioxidant protection.

Antimicrobial Peptides

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are involved in maintaining a healthy skin microbiome and are another area of interest in cosmetic peptide research.

Peptides and Skin Delivery

Many peptides are hydrophilic, which can make it difficult for them to cross the epidermal barrier. For this reason, peptide delivery is an important consideration when developing peptide-based skincare products.

One approach is to conjugate peptides with fatty acids such as palmitic acid. This can increase their lipophilic character and may improve their ability to penetrate the skin while providing protection against enzymatic degradation.

Anti-Aging Peptides in Cosmetic Formulation

Anti-aging peptides are attractive cosmetic ingredients because of their broad potential applications and their generally favourable safety profile. Their effectiveness in a formulation depends on the specific peptide, concentration, delivery system, formulation and supporting efficacy data.

References

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology – Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems

What Is Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil?

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, commonly known as Baobab Oil, is obtained from the seeds of the baobab tree (Adansonia digitata), native to Eastern and Southern Africa.

Baobab oil has been used in African skincare for centuries. It is a rich, golden-coloured oil with a slightly nutty aroma and contains vitamins A, D, E and F, including essential fatty acids.

Baobab Oil in Cosmetics

Baobab oil is used primarily as an emollient, skin-conditioning and hair-conditioning ingredient. It is described as providing moisturising benefits while absorbing relatively quickly into the skin.

The original A&T source also notes that the oil can contribute to skin elasticity and is considered stable against rancidity.

It can be incorporated into formulations such as:

• Face and body creams
• Moisturisers
• Hair care products
• Body oils
• Other skin- and hair-conditioning formulations

Traditional Use

Baobab oil has a long history of traditional use in African skincare. Traditionally, the oil was extracted by pounding the seeds and used as a topical preparation for various skin complaints and as a massage oil. These traditional uses should not be interpreted as established cosmetic efficacy claims without appropriate supporting evidence.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
CAS: 91745-12-9
EINECS: 294-680-8
Function: Emollient, hair conditioning, skin conditioning
Saponification Value: 205
Iodine Value: 80
Average Carbon Number: 17.379

References

Handbook Of Natural Ingredients – Anthony C. Dweck.

What Is Mentha Piperita?

Mentha Piperita, commonly known as peppermint, is an aromatic plant with a characteristic minty fragrance and mentholic undertones.

The A&T source identifies South Africa and Malawi as countries of origin and fresh leaves as the plant part used. Its clean, penetrating aroma makes peppermint particularly recognisable in cosmetic and personal care applications.

Mentha Piperita in Cosmetics

Peppermint is valued for its fresh, cooling and invigorating sensory properties. Its characteristic aroma can contribute to a refreshing experience in personal care products.

It is particularly suitable for formulations where a fresh fragrance or cooling sensory effect is desired. The original source also describes its traditional use in products and preparations for tired and sweaty feet and as a breath freshener.

Traditional Uses

Peppermint has traditionally been associated with a number of uses, including:

• Refreshing and cooling applications
• Foot care
• Breath freshening
• Aromatic and sensory applications
• Traditional preparations associated with headaches and nausea

These are traditional uses and should not be interpreted as cosmetic efficacy claims without appropriate supporting evidence.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Mentha Piperita (Peppermint)

References

Handbook Of Natural Ingredients – Anthony C. Dweck.

What Is Resveratrol?

Resveratrol is a phytoalexin and antioxidant polyphenol, chemically known as trans-3,5,4′-trihydroxystilbene. It occurs naturally in the skin of red grapes and is produced by plants as part of their defence response to pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.

Resveratrol is also naturally present in red wine and has attracted considerable scientific interest because of its antioxidant properties.

Resveratrol in Cosmetics

Resveratrol is widely studied as an active ingredient for skincare formulations, particularly those targeting the visible signs of skin ageing.

Its antioxidant activity is relevant to cosmetic formulations designed to help protect the skin against oxidative stress. Research has also investigated its potential role in photoageing and wrinkle appearance.

Resveratrol and Anti-Ageing Skincare

The original A&T source describes resveratrol as having anti-ageing properties and reports research investigating its activity in relation to wrinkle formation and Sirtuin-1 activation. These properties have contributed to its use and continued research as a cosmetic skincare ingredient.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Resveratrol
Chemical Name: trans-3,5,4′-trihydroxystilbene

References

Handbook Of Natural Ingredients – Anthony C. Dweck.

What Is Retinol?

Retinol is the primary naturally occurring form of vitamin A. It is typically a pale yellow crystalline material or a thick liquid.

Retinyl Palmitate is an ester formed from retinol and palmitic acid and appears as a yellow to yellow-red solid or oily substance.

Retinol in Cosmetics

Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate are used primarily in the formulation of:

• Facial skincare products
• Skin care products
• Hair care products
• Facial make-up

Vitamin A derivatives are commonly incorporated into cosmetic formulations intended to support the appearance and condition of the skin.

Retinol and Skin

Retinol is associated with maintaining healthy skin and is commonly used in cosmetic products targeting the visible signs of skin ageing. The original A&T entry also describes its traditional use in connection with age spots and various skin conditions.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Retinol
CAS: 68-26-8
EINECS: 200-683-7

References

Handbook Of Natural Ingredients – Anthony C. Dweck.

What Is Collagen?

Collagen is a natural protein found throughout the body, particularly in connective tissue, skin, organs, muscles, bones and cartilage. There are more than 25 different types of collagen in the human body.

In the skin, collagen contributes to its structure, suppleness, flexibility and firmness, working together with elastin to support the skin's overall texture.

Collagen and Skin Ageing

As skin ages and is exposed to environmental factors such as sunlight, its collagen content gradually decreases. This can contribute to changes in skin structure, including reduced flexibility and increased dryness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Collagen in Cosmetic Products

Animal-derived collagen and plant-derived pseudo-collagen ingredients can bind substantial amounts of water. For this reason, collagen-derived and collagen-like ingredients are used in cosmetic formulations for their conditioning, hydrating and skin-smoothing properties.

They are particularly common in skincare products formulated to improve the appearance and feel of mature or dry skin.

Ingredient Information

Ingredient: Collagen
CAS/EINECS: Not specified on the original A&T Formulation entry.

References

Handbook Of Natural Ingredients – Anthony C. Dweck.

What Is Undaria Pinnatifida?

Undaria Pinnatifida, commonly known as Wakame, sea mustard or Japanese kelp, is a marine algae that grows in challenging environmental conditions, including exposure to UV light, water movement and abrasion.

Its ability to withstand these conditions is associated with its content of fucoidan, a sulphated polysaccharide that contributes to the structural stability of the algae.

Undaria Pinnatifida in Cosmetics

Wakame contains naturally occurring proteins, lipids, micronutrients, vitamins and sugars. These components contribute to its use in cosmetic formulations designed to provide revitalising and conditioning effects on the skin.

Fucoidan found in Undaria Pinnatifida has been reported to have radical-scavenging and hyaluronidase-inhibitory properties. These properties are associated with the use of Wakame as an active ingredient in anti-ageing cosmetic formulations.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Undaria Pinnatifida
Common Names: Sea Mustard, Wakame, Japanese Kelp

References

Handbook Of Natural Ingredients – Anthony C. Dweck.

What Are Microplastics?

Microplastics are very small pieces of plastic measuring less than five millimetres in size. They can originate from the gradual fragmentation of larger plastic materials or can be intentionally manufactured at a small size.

Intentionally manufactured small plastic particles are often referred to as microbeads.

Microplastics in Cosmetic Products

Microbeads have been used in cosmetic products such as facial scrubs, where they can provide a physical exfoliating effect. Similar small plastic particles have also been used in other types of products, including detergents, paints, medicines, nappies and pesticides.

Microplastics and Cosmetic Regulation

The use of microbeads in cosmetic products is banned in the European Union. Therefore, cosmetic formulations intended for the EU market must take applicable restrictions on plastic particles into account during formulation and ingredient selection.

Microplastics and Cosmetic Formulation

When developing a cosmetic product, the composition and intended function of any particulate ingredient should be carefully evaluated. Where plastic particles are concerned, regulatory requirements and restrictions should be checked for the relevant market before the formulation is finalised.

What Is Greenwashing?

Greenwashing refers to the act of misleading consumers regarding the environmental practices of a company or the environmental benefits of a product or service.

In the cosmetics industry, greenwashing can occur when environmental claims create an impression that a product is more sustainable or environmentally friendly than the available evidence supports.

Greenwashing in Cosmetics

Cosmetic products may use environmental or sustainability-related claims concerning ingredients, packaging, manufacturing processes or the overall product.

Claims can become misleading when they are:

• Vague or ambiguous
• Unsupported by evidence
• Exaggerated
• Presented without relevant context
• Based on a limited environmental benefit while ignoring significant environmental impacts

For example, describing packaging as “eco-friendly” without explaining what makes it environmentally preferable may give consumers an unclear or misleading impression.

How to Avoid Greenwashing

Environmental claims should be clear, specific and supported by appropriate evidence. When developing cosmetic products and packaging, it is important to consider the complete claim and whether consumers are likely to understand it as intended.

Sustainability claims should therefore be reviewed carefully during product development and marketing to ensure that they accurately represent the environmental characteristics of the product.

Reference

TerraChoice Group Inc., 2009.

What Are Bioplastics?

Bioplastics are a broad group of materials that are biobased, biodegradable or compostable, or a combination of these properties.

The term therefore does not refer to one specific material. Bioplastics can differ significantly in their chemical composition, origin and end-of-life properties.

Biobased vs Biodegradable

These two terms describe different characteristics:

Biobased means that a material is wholly or partly derived from renewable biological resources, such as plants.

Biodegradable means that a material can be broken down by microorganisms under suitable environmental conditions.

A material can therefore be biobased without being biodegradable, and biodegradable materials do not necessarily have to be produced from biological resources.

Bioplastics in Cosmetic Packaging

Bioplastics can be considered for cosmetic packaging when a brand is looking for alternatives to conventional fossil-based plastics. Their suitability depends on the required packaging properties, manufacturing process, product compatibility and intended end-of-life route.

When selecting a bioplastic, it is therefore important to evaluate the specific material rather than assuming that every bioplastic is automatically biodegradable or compostable.

Bioplastics and Packaging Development

For cosmetic packaging, factors such as mechanical strength, chemical compatibility, appearance, processing requirements and recyclability or compostability should be considered during material selection.

The term “bioplastic” alone does not define how a packaging component will perform or how it should be disposed of. The specific material and its certified properties need to be considered.

What Is Injection Moulding?

Injection moulding is a manufacturing process used to produce highly accurate plastic components. In cosmetic packaging, it is commonly used for closures, overcaps and reducing plugs.

Plastic resin is fed into a heated barrel and screw, where it is melted and then injected at high pressure into a water-cooled mould. The mould may contain several moving parts and is held closed by a clamping unit to withstand the injection pressure.

Once the plastic has filled the mould cavity, it cools and solidifies into the required shape. After sufficient cooling, the mould opens and the finished component is ejected. The process can then be repeated.

Materials Used in Injection Moulding

Polypropylene (PP) is one of the most commonly used materials for injection moulding. It can be divided into several types with different properties.

PP Homopolymer

PP homopolymer is commonly used for general-purpose moulding of closures.

PP Random Copolymer

Random copolymer can provide excellent clarity and is suitable for applications such as overcaps and closures with active hinges, including flip-top closures.

PP Block Copolymer

Block copolymer generally provides lower clarity but offers greater impact resistance. It is therefore commonly used for coloured components where clarity is less important.

Injection Moulding in Cosmetic Packaging

Polypropylene can also be advantageous when used together with bottles made from different materials, such as HDPE, PVC or PETG, as it can help improve compatibility and reduce binding issues between the two components.

What Is a Neck Finish?

When choosing a bottle, the neck finish determines which type of cap or closure can be used with the packaging. It is an important specification to consider when selecting cosmetic packaging.

A neck finish is normally identified by two numbers, for example:

• 20/410
• 20/415
• 24/410
• 24/415

The first number represents the outer diameter of the neck opening in millimetres. The second number identifies the thread configuration and height of the neck.

Neck Finish and Cosmetic Packaging

The bottle and closure must have compatible neck finishes to ensure proper fit and functionality. This is particularly important when selecting pumps, sprays, dispensers, screw caps or other closures for cosmetic products.

The neck finish should therefore be confirmed when developing or sourcing cosmetic packaging, especially when a specific closure or dispensing system is required.

Injection Stretch Blow Moulding (ISB) is a process that manufacturers high quality containers in PET to produce a clarity similar to glass.

ISB can also produce materials that are less clear such as polypropylene (PP).

Production process

Production begins with the injection process, where molten polymer flows into an unjection cavity to produce a preform, a hollow test tube shaped plastic object that has a neck and a thread on the open end.

When the preform is conditioned to the correct temperature, it is ready for stretching and blowing to the desired shape using a mould. Once in the mould, a rod is introduced to stretch the preform using two levels of air pressure, the preform is then blown circumferentially. After a set cooling time, the moulds open and the preformed bottle is removed. The process is carried out concurrently using a revolving carousel of moulds.

ISB is an environmental alternative to glass

Because plastics are soft and boast lower melting points, PET bottles require less energy to manufacture than glass. Easier to recycle, PET can also be made in PCR in levels up to 100%.

It is also possible to make PET products using a range of biopolymers, including sugarcane based PET. With no sign of difference in both appearance or performance, out PET biopolymer can be recycled in the same stream as conventional PET and PCR PET, for a truly sustainable solution.

What are the advantages of this process?

Offering dimensionally accurate bottle shapes, when molded, PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) provides an excellent alternative to glass for a number of reasons

These include:

• Clarity similar to glass
• Lighter in weight
• More cost effective to transport products
• Higher breakage resistance to avoid risk and injury
• More durable than glass
• Excellent barrier characteristics against carbon dioxide and oxigen
• Requires less energy to produce
• Can be easily recycled
• PET can be decorated with silk screen printing and hot foil blocking

What Is Extrusion Blow Moulding?

Extrusion blow moulding is a manufacturing process used to produce plastic bottles and containers. Plastic resin is melted and extruded into a hollow tube, which is then clamped between two halves of a water-cooled mould.

Pressurised air is introduced into the tube, forcing the heated plastic against the inside of the mould cavity. The plastic cools and takes the shape of the mould. The mould then opens and releases the finished bottle.

Advantages of Extrusion Blow Moulding

One important advantage of extrusion blow moulding is the flexibility to change the neck configuration without replacing the entire bottle mould. This allows different neck fitments to be used with the same bottle mould and can reduce tooling costs.

The process can produce bottles with a wide range of:

• Shapes and sizes
• Neck types
• Plastic materials
• Complex contours and designs

Materials Used in Extrusion Blow Moulding

HDPE (high-density polyethylene) is one of the most commonly used materials for blow-moulded bottles. Although naturally opaque, HDPE can be manufactured with a high-gloss appearance.

MDPE (medium-density polyethylene) can be used when a more flexible or squeezable bottle is required, for example for creams and lotions.

Key Advantages

Extrusion blow moulding can provide:

• Good resistance to alcohols, acids and alkalis
• High bottle stiffness
• Interchangeable neck moulds
• Good recyclability
• The ability to produce complex shapes and sharp contours

The process is therefore widely applicable to cosmetic packaging where flexibility in bottle design and neck configuration is important.

What Is PCR Material?

PCR stands for Post-Consumer Recycled. PCR materials are plastics recovered from products that have already been used by consumers and would otherwise enter the waste stream.

In cosmetic packaging, PCR plastic is increasingly used by brands looking to reduce their reliance on virgin plastic.

Where Does PCR Plastic Come From?

PCR materials can be produced from discarded plastic products such as milk bottles and drinks bottles. These materials are collected, processed and recycled so that the recovered plastic can be used in the manufacture of new packaging.

Using post-consumer recycled material provides a way to give previously used plastic another application rather than treating it as waste.

PCR Material in Cosmetic Packaging

PCR plastic can be incorporated into different types of cosmetic packaging, depending on the material specification and the requirements of the packaging component.

Its use can be particularly relevant for brands seeking to:

• Reduce the amount of virgin plastic used in packaging
• Incorporate recycled content into their packaging
• Support a circular approach to plastic use
• Reuse materials recovered from consumer waste

PCR material can also be recycled again for further manufacturing, helping extend the useful life of plastic materials.

PCR vs Virgin Plastic

The main difference is the source of the material. Virgin plastic is produced from newly manufactured raw materials, whereas PCR plastic incorporates material recovered from post-consumer waste.

The proportion of PCR content can vary depending on the packaging specification and material available. Therefore, the suitability of PCR should be evaluated during the packaging development process.

What Is a Conditioning Agent?

A conditioning agent is a cosmetic ingredient used to improve the feel, appearance and manageability of hair or skin. In hair care, conditioning agents can leave the hair smoother, softer and easier to manage while helping reduce static.

In skincare, conditioning agents can help improve skin softness and suppleness.

Benefits of Conditioning Agents

Reduce Frizz

Conditioning agents can smooth the hair shaft and reduce irregularities between the cuticles, helping hair appear less frizzy and more manageable.

Increase Shine

By providing lubrication to the hair surface, conditioning agents can improve the way light reflects from the hair, contributing to a smoother and shinier appearance.

Improve Detangling

Conditioned hair becomes smoother and easier to comb. This can make detangling easier and reduce the mechanical stress associated with combing.

Help Protect Hair

Some conditioning agents form a protective layer on the hair surface and can help reduce the effects of environmental exposure and styling processes, including heat, sunlight and chlorine.

Improve Skin Feel

In skincare formulations, conditioning agents can help improve hydration, softness and suppleness, contributing to a more comfortable skin feel.

What Is a Nanomaterial?

A nanomaterial is a material with at least one external dimension, or an internal structure, in the nanoscale range. Nanomaterials can exhibit properties that differ from their conventional forms because of their small size, increased surface area and other physical and chemical characteristics.

In cosmetics, nanomaterials may be used to influence product performance, stability or sensory properties.

Nanomaterials in Cosmetics

Nanomaterials are increasingly used in cosmetic formulations because their specific properties can provide formulation benefits. Depending on the material and application, they may be used to:

• Improve the performance of cosmetic ingredients
• Increase the stability of certain ingredients
• Improve the texture, colour or other aesthetic properties of a product
• Deliver or carry other substances within a formulation

Examples of materials that may fall within the scope of the EU Cosmetics Regulation include certain metals, metal oxides and carbon-based materials.

Definition Under the EU Cosmetics Regulation

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 defines a nanomaterial as an insoluble or biopersistent and intentionally manufactured material with one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure, on the scale of 1–100 nm.

The regulatory assessment focuses particularly on intentionally manufactured nanomaterials that are insoluble or poorly soluble or biopersistent. Materials such as completely soluble substances or materials that readily degrade and are not persistent in biological systems may therefore be treated differently.

Safety Assessment of Nanomaterials

Nanomaterials require particular attention during cosmetic safety assessment because their physicochemical properties and biological behaviour can differ from those of the corresponding conventional material.

Factors that may be relevant to the safety assessment include:

• Particle size and size distribution
• Solubility and dissolution behaviour
• Chemical composition
• Particle shape and morphology
• Surface reactivity and surface modifications
• Potential systemic exposure
• Persistence or accumulation
• Intended route of exposure, including inhalation

Testing may also require specific consideration of particle aggregation, dispersion and the appropriate dose metrics, such as particle number or surface area, rather than relying solely on weight or volume concentration.

Nanomaterials and Cosmetic Regulation

The use of nanomaterials in cosmetic products is specifically addressed by EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Certain nanomaterials require notification to the European Commission through the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP) before being placed on the market, and specific safety assessment requirements may apply.

The SCCS has published dedicated guidance and scientific opinions concerning the safety assessment of nanomaterials used as cosmetic ingredients. These documents provide guidance on the data and testing considerations needed for an appropriate safety dossier.

References

SCCS Notes of guidance for the testing of cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation.

What Is Systemic Exposure Dose?

Systemic Exposure Dose (SED) is the estimated amount of a cosmetic ingredient that becomes available to the systemic circulation following exposure to a cosmetic product.

SED is expressed in mg/kg body weight/day and is used in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients to estimate the level of systemic exposure resulting from their intended use.

Unlike the amount of an ingredient initially applied to the skin, SED takes into consideration factors such as the amount of product used, concentration of the ingredient, frequency of use and the proportion of the ingredient that is absorbed.

How Is SED Calculated?

The calculation of SED depends on the exposure scenario and the available absorption data.

A simplified approach can be expressed as:

SED = E × C × F × DA / BW

Where:

• E = amount of cosmetic product applied per day
• C = concentration of the ingredient in the product
• F = frequency or exposure factor
• DA = dermal absorption fraction
• BW = body weight

The specific calculation can vary depending on the exposure route and the methodology used in the safety assessment.

Dermal Absorption and SED

For topical cosmetic products, dermal absorption is an important factor in determining systemic exposure.

Not all of the ingredient applied to the skin necessarily reaches the systemic circulation. The proportion that becomes systemically available depends on the physicochemical characteristics of the ingredient, the formulation, the application site and other exposure-related factors.

When reliable experimental absorption data are available, they can be used in the SED calculation. Where appropriate data are not available, conservative assumptions may be applied as part of the safety assessment.

SED in Cosmetic Safety Assessment

SED is particularly important when evaluating ingredients for which systemic toxicity is a potential concern.

The estimated systemic exposure can be compared with a No Observed Adverse Effect Level (NOAEL) derived from relevant toxicological studies.

This comparison is used to calculate the Margin of Safety (MoS).

A simplified expression is:

MoS = NOAEL / SED

A sufficiently large margin of safety provides support for the conclusion that the expected cosmetic exposure is adequately below the level associated with adverse effects in the relevant toxicological data.

Factors That Influence SED

Several factors can significantly affect the estimated systemic exposure:

Concentration of the Ingredient

A higher concentration of an ingredient in the finished cosmetic product generally results in a higher potential exposure.

Amount of Product Used

The quantity of cosmetic product applied during each use directly influences exposure.

Frequency of Application

Products used several times per day or across large areas of the body can result in greater cumulative exposure.

Dermal Absorption

The percentage of the ingredient that penetrates the skin and becomes systemically available is a key parameter in SED calculation.

Body Weight

SED is normalised to body weight, allowing exposure to be expressed in a standardised form.

Why Is SED Important?

SED provides a quantitative link between cosmetic product use and toxicological safety data.

It allows the safety assessor to move beyond simply considering the concentration of an ingredient in a formulation and instead estimate the actual systemic exposure that may result from normal or reasonably foreseeable use.

For this reason, SED is an important component of professional cosmetic safety assessment and the overall evaluation of cosmetic ingredient safety.

‍

Source: SCCS Notes of guidance for the testing of cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation

What Is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil?

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a vegetable oil obtained from sunflower seeds. Sunflowers originally came from Peru, where they were cultivated in the 16th century.

The oil is rich in a blend of glycerides and fatty acids, making it a versatile ingredient for cosmetic formulations.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil in Cosmetics

Sunflower seed oil is primarily used for its emollient and moisturising properties. It can help soften the skin while supporting its ability to retain moisture and providing a protective effect.

It can be incorporated into a wide range of cosmetic formulations, including:

• Facial and body creams
• Lotions
• Balms
• Oils
• Other moisturising skincare products

Its plant-derived origin and pleasant formulation properties also make it a commonly used vegetable oil in cosmetic development.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
CAS: 8001-21-6
EINECS: 232-273-9

What Is Hedera Helix Extract?

Hedera Helix Extract is an extract obtained from ivy (Hedera helix), a climbing plant with a long history of traditional use.

Historical herbal references describe the topical use of ivy preparations for various skin conditions. The plant contains naturally occurring compounds such as hederagenin, a triterpenoid saponin found in ivy.

Hedera Helix Extract in Cosmetics

In cosmetic formulations, Hedera Helix Extract can provide several functions depending on the formulation and concentration. Its listed cosmetic functions include:

• Anticaking
• Antimicrobial
• Astringent
• Skin conditioning
• Soothing
• Tonic

The extract can therefore be incorporated into skincare and body care formulations where skin conditioning, astringency or soothing properties are desired.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Hedera Helix Extract
CAS: 84082-54-2
EINECS: 282-000-2

What Is Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil?

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural vegetable oil obtained from soybean seeds. Soybean has been cultivated in China for more than 4,000 years and is now widely produced commercially, including in the United States.

Soybean oil is a light, generally odourless oil containing a range of fatty acids. Its properties make it a versatile ingredient for cosmetic formulations.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil in Cosmetics

Soybean oil is primarily used as an emollient and skin-conditioning ingredient. It can help improve the softness and smoothness of the skin while contributing to the moisturising properties of a formulation.

It is suitable for a variety of cosmetic applications, including:

• Skin care products
• Body care products
• Hair care products
• Moisturising formulations

Its relatively economical cost also makes it useful as a base oil in formulations where effective moisturisation and cost efficiency are important.

Other Components of Soybean Oil

Soybean is also an important source of phytosterols, including stigmasterol and sitosterol, which are naturally occurring components associated with the oil and its processing by-products.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
CAS: 8001-22-7
EINECS: 232-274-4

What Is Glycerin?

Glycerin, or glycerol, is one of the oldest and most widely used moisturising ingredients in skincare. It is a clear, hygroscopic substance that attracts and retains water.

Glycerin has been extensively studied in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Clinical and instrumental trials have demonstrated its ability to increase the moisture content of the skin and help protect it from becoming dry and scaly.

Glycerin in Cosmetic Formulation

Glycerin is commonly incorporated into moisturising and skin-conditioning formulations because of its ability to help maintain skin hydration. It can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, cleansers and other skincare formulations.

It is also listed in major pharmacopoeias and has been used extensively in products intended for skin care.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Glycerin
CAS: 56-81-5
EINECS: 200-289-5

What Is Gluconolactone?

Gluconolactone, also known as glucono delta-lactone, is a cyclic ester (lactone) derived from gluconic acid. It is formed through the removal of water from gluconic acid.

Gluconic acid is a carboxylic acid, while gluconolactone is its lactone form. In cosmetic formulations, gluconolactone can be used as an ingredient in a range of personal care products.

Gluconolactone in Cosmetics

Gluconolactone and gluconic acid derivatives can be incorporated into various cosmetic and personal care formulations, including:

• Skin care products
• Cleansing products
• Bath products
• Shampoos
• Mouthwashes

Its suitability for a formulation depends on the product type, formulation system and intended cosmetic function.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Gluconolactone
CAS: 90-80-2
EINECS: 202-016-5

What Is Ferulic Acid?

Ferulic Acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound found in various plants. It is commonly extracted from rice bran (Oryza sativa) and is available as an odourless, pale-yellow crystalline powder.

Ferulic acid was first isolated in 1886 from Ferula foetida by Hlasiwetz and Barth in Innsbruck, Austria. It was subsequently identified in other plant sources, including Pinus laricio, before rice bran became one of its common commercial sources.

Antioxidant Properties

Ferulic acid is widely valued in cosmetic formulation for its antioxidant properties. It can scavenge superoxide anion radicals and inhibit lipid peroxidation induced by superoxides.

These properties make ferulic acid particularly relevant to formulations designed to provide antioxidant protection and to help protect cosmetic ingredients from oxidative degradation.

Natural UV Absorption

Ferulic acid also has UV-absorbing properties, with maximum absorption occurring between approximately 300 and 320 nm.

Because of this characteristic, it is used in cosmetic formulations where antioxidant protection and UV-related formulation considerations are relevant. Its presence in a cosmetic formulation should not, however, be interpreted as providing sufficient sun protection unless the finished product has been appropriately formulated and tested for the relevant SPF and UVA claims.

Ferulic Acid in Cosmetic Formulation

Ferulic acid can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations where antioxidant activity and protection against oxidative processes are desired. It is particularly relevant to skin-care and anti-ageing formulations, often as part of antioxidant systems containing other active ingredients.

When formulating with ferulic acid, its solubility, concentration, pH compatibility and stability should be considered to ensure that the ingredient can be incorporated effectively into the finished product.

Ingredient Information

INCI Name: Ferulic Acid
CAS Number: 1135-24-6
EINECS Number: 214-490-0