Anti-Aging Peptides: Properties and Cosmetic Applications

What Are Anti-Aging Peptides?

Anti-aging peptides are peptides applied to the skin with the aim of producing a local cosmetic effect. They can interact with processes involved in changes to the structure, appearance, functionality and homeostasis of the skin.

Based on their mechanisms of action, anti-aging peptides can be broadly classified into several groups.

Types of Anti-Aging Peptides

Bioactive Peptides

Bioactive peptides can act on processes associated with skin repair and renewal. Research has investigated their ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, support cell proliferation and influence melanogenesis.

Antioxidant Peptides

Antioxidant peptides can help neutralise reactive oxygen species (ROS) and are therefore of interest in formulations designed to provide antioxidant protection.

Antimicrobial Peptides

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are involved in maintaining a healthy skin microbiome and are another area of interest in cosmetic peptide research.

Peptides and Skin Delivery

Many peptides are hydrophilic, which can make it difficult for them to cross the epidermal barrier. For this reason, peptide delivery is an important consideration when developing peptide-based skincare products.

One approach is to conjugate peptides with fatty acids such as palmitic acid. This can increase their lipophilic character and may improve their ability to penetrate the skin while providing protection against enzymatic degradation.

Anti-Aging Peptides in Cosmetic Formulation

Anti-aging peptides are attractive cosmetic ingredients because of their broad potential applications and their generally favourable safety profile. Their effectiveness in a formulation depends on the specific peptide, concentration, delivery system, formulation and supporting efficacy data.

References

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology – Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems