A cosmetic formulation chemist measures the pH of a transparent liquid using a hanna edge ph meter

Laboratory tests

Wide range of laboratory testing services

Additionally, we offer specialized tests, including efficacy testing and SPF testing for sunscreen products, among others.

We offer accredited microorganism identification testing to meet requirements

ISO 16212 Cosmetics — Microbiology — Enumeration of yeast and mould
ISO 21149 Cosmetics — Microbiology — Enumeration and detection of aerobic mesophilic bacteria
ISO 22718 Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Staphylococcus aureus
ISO 22717 Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Pseudomonas aeruginosa
ISO 18416 Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Candida albicans
ISO 21150 Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Escherichia coli

Challenge tests confirm that the preservatives used protect the cosmetic product from the development of dangerous microorganisms and from secondary infections during use. They consist of infecting the tested cosmetic mass with the strains of Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, and Aspergillus brasiliensis and observing the decrease of microorganisms over time.

In our laboratory, we perform challenge tests in accordance with:

  1. EN ISO 11930: 2019-03 with accreditation,
  2. Eur. 5.1.3. (European Pharmacopoeia Method),
  3. The S&M Koko Test Method,
  4. In select cases, also with the customer's methodology.

The challenge test is performed at various stages of production and storage

  1. In the product development phase (to obtain the correct preservation system),
  2. During production (to confirm that the technological process does not have a negative impact on the shelf life and effectiveness of the preservative),
  3. To protect the cosmetic product from unforeseen contamination during production and use by the consumer,
  4. To evaluate the effect against environmental strains causing microbiological issues.

Stability and compatibility are the criteria required for the preparation of a safety evaluation (CPSR). The responsible person must demonstrate that the cosmetic product meets the labeling standards (PAO, shelf life) and is safe as long as it is available on the market and used by the consumer under the recommended conditions.

The scope of stability testing in our laboratory includes:

  1. Stability and compatibility of cosmetic products,
  2. Stability of cosmetic product,
  3. Compatibility of cosmetic product with packaging,
  4. PAO (Period After Opening) – confirmation/exclusion of the time after opening specified by the manufacturer,
  5. Shelf life – confirmation/exclusion of the shelf life specified by the manufacturer,
  6. Cycle test

Dermatological tests (patch tests) are performed with regard to irritant and allergenic properties, mainly using the patch-test method under the supervision of a dermatologist. The performance of a dermatological test allows the use of the declaration "dermatologically tested".

Our offer includes the following types of dermatological tests:

  1. Open test – recommended for potentially irritating products (e.g., urea products, high/low pH products, AHA peels, depilatory products)
  2. Semi-open test (including HRIPT) – for most cosmetic products, using panels:
  3. Normal,
  4. Sensitive,
  5. Mixed,
  6. Closed test – a more restrictive test, possible for most cosmetic products,
  7. T-shirt test – recommended for products for washing and rinsing textiles intended for sensitive skin, for children,
  8. Single-use test.

Our dermatological tests meet the requirements of:

Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products,Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association (formerly COLIPA) Guidelines - Product test Guidelines for the Assessment of Human Skin Compatibility 1997,Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association (formerly COLIPA) Guidelines for the Evaluation of the Efficacy of Cosmetic Products 2008,

Efficacy tests can be used to objectively assess the effects of a cosmetic product on the skin. They are based on the measurement of the most important skin parameters and are a method of assessing the actual effect of a cosmetic product on the skin.

Examples of tests we can provide include:

  1. Measurement of skin hydration,
  2. Measurement of skin pH,
  3. Measurement of skin surface smoothness,
  4. Measurement of biomechanical parameters (firmness and elasticity),
  5. Measurement of TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss),
  6. Measurement of the degree of erythema/redness of the skin (haemoglobin content)wrinkle measurement/analysis,
  7. Measurement of skin roughness,measurement of sebaceous secretion on the face,
  8. Measurement of hair density,study of the effectiveness of antiperspirants,study of the effectiveness of deodorants,
  9. Measurement of eyelash length and volume,
  10. Photographic documentation of test results.

Used equipment for instrumental research:

  1. VISIA Skin Analysis,
  2. Primos 3D Lite,
  3. Miravex Antera,
  4. Corneometer CM 825,
  5. Corneofix F20,
  6. Sebufix F16,
  7. Visioscan VC 98,
  8. Cutometer MPA 580,
  9. Mexameter MX 18,
  10. Sebumeter SM 815,
  11. SkinGlossMeter SGM 1065,
  12. Aramo SG ASG 200F,
  13. Tewameter TM 300,
  14. VisioFace RD

When the manufacturer markets a cosmetic product with UV filters, they are required to conduct tests to confirm the product's protection from UVB and UVA radiation.
The determination of the level of UVB sun protection factor involves measuring and comparing the value of the minimum erythema dose for skin protected with the cosmetic with the value of the minimum erythema dose for unprotected skin. The test to determine the photoprotective factor UVA is performed by an in vitro method using a specialised device and PMMA plates.
After exposure to UV radiation, phototoxicity and photoallergy are evaluated to exclude the occurrence of allergic or toxic changes.

The scope of UV testing in our laboratory includes:

  1. Determination of sun protection factor SPF by in vivo method,
  2. Determination of sun protection factor SPF by in vitro method,
  3. Determination of sun protection level UVA by in vitro method,
  4. Determination of sun protection level UVA by in vivo method,
  5. Water resistance test (WR),
  6. Very water resistance test (VWR),
  7. Photoallergy,
  8. Phototoxicity

Depending on the type of test, we perform UV tests in accordance with:

  1. ISO 24444: 2019,
  2. ISO 24443: 2012,
  3. COLIPA Guidelines (December, 2005),
  4. FDA Guidance for Industry – Labeling and Effectiveness Testing: Sunscreen Drug Products for OTC Human Use (2012).

The correct physicochemical form of cosmetics ensures their safety, stability, and appropriate functional properties. These tests include the determination of basic quality parameters and composition, as well as the determination of potentially harmful substances.
We provide comprehensive testing within the physicochemical specifications of both raw materials and the final product. We confirm that the properties of the preparations comply with the requirements of the relevant standards and the technical specifications (manufacturer's declarations).

Examples of tests we can provide include:

  1. Organoleptic assessment,
  2. Determination of heavy metals,
  3. Determination of water activity,
  4. Determination of allergens,
  5. Determination of pH,
  6. Determination of density,
  7. Determination of viscosity.

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