Microneedling: Definition and Cosmetic Applications

What Is Microneedling?

Microneedling is a minimally invasive transdermal delivery technique that uses very small needles to create temporary openings in the skin. These openings can facilitate the penetration of substances that would otherwise have difficulty passing through the skin barrier.

Microneedles can range from approximately 100 to 1500 μm in length, while the stratum corneum is typically around 10–30 μm thick.

Microneedling and Cosmetic Ingredient Delivery

By creating microscopic pores, microneedling can facilitate the delivery of larger molecules, including certain peptides and other hydrophilic ingredients.

The effectiveness of the technique depends partly on the mechanical properties of the skin. Skin elasticity can cause the skin to deform under pressure, potentially reducing penetration and pore formation.

Microneedling and Peptides

Research has investigated microneedling as a delivery method for cosmetic peptides. One in-vitro study evaluated solid microneedle arrays consisting of 121 needles for the delivery of acetyl hexapeptide-3 through pig ear skin.

The study reported substantially higher peptide permeation when microneedles were applied compared with untreated skin, demonstrating the potential of this approach for enhancing topical peptide delivery.

Microneedling in Cosmetic Product Development

Microneedling can therefore be considered a delivery-enhancement technology for cosmetic actives, particularly ingredients with limited ability to penetrate the skin on their own. Its use requires consideration of the ingredient, delivery system, microneedle characteristics and intended application.

References

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology – Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems