Rosa Damascena Flower Extract is an extract of the flowers of the Damask Rose, Rosa damascena, Rosaceae. Rosa damascena, called rose otto or attar of roses, is made by picking new blooms early in the morning before the oil and scent dissipates in the sun. Oil is extracted when the petals are steamed. Attar of roses has been used in cosmetics, lotions, and perfumes around the world for centuries, and the flowers can also provide a hint of colour in emollients. Rosa damascena sometimes called the Rose of Castile, is a rose hybrid, derived from Rosa gallica and Rosa moschata. DNA analysis has shown that a third species, Rosa fedtschenkoana, is associated with the Damask rose. The Damask rose is commonly used to flavor food and to make rose water. Rose extract and rose oil have a host of beneficial affects on the skin and are great for promoting a youthful complexion with good tone, elasticity and an even colored complexion. Toxicity class D acute oral, Dermal Irritation class C, Dermal sensitisation class D (2%). Rated safe during pregnancy, Mucous Membrane C-D (non-irritant). Not in the warning list for pregnancy.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

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Piper longum fruit extract. The fruit contains 1% volatile oil, resin, alkaloids Piperin and piperlonguminine, a waxy alkaloid N-isobutyl deca-trans-2-trans-4-dienamide and a terpenoid substance. The roots have piperine, periongumine or piplartin, dihydro-stigmasterol, which have been the reason that it is popularly used in traditional practice to promote respiratory health. In a few weeks-clinical study with 20 children Piper longum extract significantly benefited respiratory function. It has been known to effectively reduce passive cutaneous anaphylaxis in rats and proteacted guinea pigs against antigen induced bronchospasm. (Dahanukar.S et.al.Indian Drugs 19:271(1982). Major chemical constituents: Essential oil. Mono and sesquiterpenes, caryophyllene (mainly), Piperine, Piperlongumine, Piperlonguminine, Pipernonaline, Piperundecalidine, Pipercide, Sesamin, B- sitosterol four aristolactams (cepharanone B. aristolactum All. Piperlactum A and  piperolactam B) five 4-5 dioxoaporphines etc. The essential oil of the fruit P. longum is a complex mixture, the three major components of which are (excluding the volatile piperine) caryophyllene and pentadecane (both about 17.8%) and bisaboline (11%). Others include thujine, terpinoline, zingiberine, pcymene, p-methoxy acetophenone and dihydrocarveol. Long pepper contains less essential oil than its relatives (about 1%), which consists of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and ethers (bisabolene, β-caryophyllene, β-caryophyllene oxide, each 10 to 20%; α-zingiberene, 5%), and saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons such as 18% pentadecane, 7% tridecane, 6% heptadecane. The essential oil of the fruits showed fungicidal activity of P. longum L. The fruit-derived materials was tested towards six phytopathogenic fungi, Pyricularia oryzae, Rhizoctonia solani, Botrytis cineria, Phytophthora infestans, Puccinia recondita, and Erysiphe graminis using a whole plant in vivo method 42-44. A piperidine alkaloid, pipernonaline, was isolated from the hexane fraction of P.longum showed a potent fungicidal activity against P. recondita with 91% and 80% control values at the concentration of 0.5 and 0.25 mg ml−1.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Lactic acid is found in nature in milk, it is also found in the skin. The role of lactic acid is to improve the integrity of the acid mantle of the skin and it acts as part of the skin’s natural moisturising function. It not only acts as an astringent, but also helps to moderate the pH of the skin to keep it slightly the acidic (the ideal value). Lactic acid is used in skin softening preparations and has been used at higher levels for the treatment of thickened skin conditions (e.g. calluses, warts, etc). The SCCNFP adopted a position paper (SCCNFP/ 0370/ 00) (1) on the safety of AHA based on studies on short term phototoxicity (sensitivity of human skin to UV-induced damage: sunburn cells and pyrimidine dimers production) and skin irritation. The SCCNFP considered that there was a need for more information in order to provide a full scientific assessment of the safety of AHA. However, on the precautionary principle, the SCCNFP suggested that: lactic acid up to a maximum level of 2.5 % and a pH ≥ 5.0. [CAS: 50-21-5; EINECS: 200-018-0]. Function: Buffering/ humectant/ skin conditioning. The actual or estimated LD50 value: 3,543 mg/kg body weight. AICS status (NICNAS Australia): AICS Compliant. Oral LD50 value (rat): 3,543 mg/kg. Dermal LD50 value (rabbit): 2,000 mg/kg. Lactic Acid.  CIR: Concentration or other limitation on use for safe with qualifications conclusion: </=10%, at final formulation pH>/=3.5, when formulated to avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions for use include the daily use of sun protection;</=30%, at final formulation pH>/=3.0, in products designed for brief, discontin-uous use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when application is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun protection. 

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Inositol is a naturally occurring nutrient that is usually classified as a carbocyclic polyol. The most common form of inositol is sometimes referred to as myo-inositol. In the human body, inositol plays a major role in preventing the collection of fats in the liver, as well as promoting healthy hair growth. The presence of the nutrient also aids in efficient processing of nutrients into the conversion of energy, which in turn helps the body to maintain a healthy metabolism. [CAS: 87-89-8; EINECS: 201-781-2]. Function: Antistatic/ hair conditioning/ humectant. The actual or estimated LD50 value: 10,000 mg/kg body weight. AICS status (NICNAS Australia): AICS Compliant. [Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Milk Protein, Lactose, Inositol, Acetyl Cysteine, Acetyl Methionine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid]. Follicusan™ contains biologically active signaling proteins, ethyl panthenol (provitamin B5), inositol, as well as acetyl cysteine and  acetyl methionine, in a water-alcohol medium. The product vitalizes the cells of the scalp, including the hair follicles, and thus counteracts premature, accelerated hair loss (alopecia). Follicusan™ is a whitish, opaque liquid and dissolves in water and (used at the recommended maximum concentration of 5 %) dissolves in water-alcohol mixtures with a maximum alcohol content of 50 % w/w. Within the pH range 3.5 to 5.5 the proteins in Follicusan™ may precipitate, therefore when formulating with Follicusan™ this pH range should be avoided.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Dead Sea Mud. The thermal baths of the Dead Sea are contemporary to Great King Solomon. Their reputation of efficacy spread throughout the Antique world. Cleopatra imported salts from the Dead Sea for her beauty care. The Dead Sea is situated 400 meters below sea level. The water of the rivers that flow into it cannot flow out. It concentrates, evaporates, then progressively deposits treasures such as mineral salts and organic sediments eroded from the Judean Mounts. The salinity of the Dead Sea is thus 10 times higher than that of any other sea. Today, many countries encourage their citizens suffering from psoriasis or arthritis to make a stay at the thermal baths of the Dead Sea as the mud and salts bring relief from these distressing conditions. The much sought-after salts and mud are also quite famous for their remineralizing and purifying properties. The mud is highly recommended for seborrheic skin or skin suffering from acne, and Dead Sea mud is very efficient for skin care, to deep cleanse and also to be used to relieve painful joints. The black mud, rich in minerals, is composed of layers of clay sediments constituted as millennia passed. The concentration in minerals is high. The mud contains natural exfoliating agents with an action that purifies and tones the skin. As a result, the skin is more supple and smoother. In a mask, the mud can be used to balance and smooth the skin. The skin is cleaned in depth and as a result ends up nourished and better hydrated. In scrubs, it provides a light lifting to leave the skin fresh and revitalized. On the hair, in a mask or in a shampoo, it is used to clean the hair, get rid of excess sebum and rebalance the scalp. In products designed for body, it is said to favor cellular exchanges and slimming and helps to improve the elasticity of the skin. As the figure gets thinner, the skin breathes. Ideal for anti-stress cures or after birth, around the joints and to relieve pains. The salts of the Dead Sea bring a calming and relaxing effect. In a bath, they enable the body to feel well and are an ideal solution for body tiredness, muscular or nervous tension. In cosmetics, the salts purify, cleanse and remineralize the skin for a progressive come back to a healthy and supple aspect. Their beneficial aspect is furthermore improved when associated with warm applications of Dead Sea mud.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)

Bamboo Silica is one of the natural sources of plant silica. Lessonia has Bamboo 200, 500, 1000 and Bamboo 100. Bamboo Exfoliator is a solidified organic silica extracted from the nodes of specific bamboo stems, called tabasheer in the traditional Indian medicine. Bamboo 100 is especially ideal for microdermabrasion since it improves skin refinement and complexion clearness. Another exfoliant based on bamboo silica is available from Libiol. The bamboo exfoliant is obtained from the bamboo tabasheer stems collected in the form of an exudate that crystallizes at ambient temperature. The product is presented in the form of a very hard white mass. After crushing, one obtains a crystalline powder very rich in mineral salt. It is a source of silica (SiO2) since this particular variety of bamboo contains nearly 70% of it among the other minerals found. The bamboo exfoliant is particularly interesting for the manufacture of exfoliating creams or gels to remove the dead cells and debris from the skin surface. Bamboosilk from Naturactiva. Certain female bamboo contain a white secretion in their joints called tabasheer. It consists almost of pure hydrated silica and has been used in Indian phytotherapy for its remineralizing properties in treatment of arthritis, osteoporosis, and for strengthening hair and nails. Eastern medicinal tradition describes Tabasheer as alkaline, cold in nature and sweet in taste. It is considered as an aphrodisiac and tonic in China where it is called tian zhu huang. Bamboosilk imparts to powder formulations a variety of properties that include: a high sebum absorption capacity, a mattifying aspect and a silky smooth feel. It also helps to improve the ease of application and the spreadability for body lotions, absorbs excessive perspiration, reduces lipstick exudation, adds volume in mascaras and improves nail polish wear.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)

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Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract is an extract of the fruit of the Gamboge Tree, Garcinia cambogia, Guttiferae. Garcinia Cambogia (Malabar Tamarind) is a small fruit that has some traditional usage to enhance the culinary experience of a meal, but beyond that has limited medicinal usage. It is a very good source of hydroxycitric acids (structurally related to citric acid, a sour flavorant) and one of the isomers, known as (-)-Hydroxycitric acid, is thought to help in weight control. Several studies have shown that Garcinia cambogia plays an important role in the regulation of endogenous lipid biosynthesis. This effect is specially attributed to (-)-hydroxycitric acid (HCA) inhibiting the enzyme ATP-dependent citrate lyase, which catalyzes the cleavage of citrate to oxaloacetate and acetyl-CoA. Studies conducted in experimental animals have not reported increased mortality or significant toxicity. Furthermore, at the doses usually administered, no differences have been reported in terms of side effects or adverse events (those studied) in humans between individuals treated with G. cambogia and controls.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Hydrogen Peroxide is a clear, colorless liquid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Hydrogen Peroxide can be found in a wide variety of hair care products such as hair dyes, hair bleaches, conditioners, shampoos and rinses, hair bleaches and shampoos. It is also used in tooth whitening products. Hydrogen Peroxide is also sold as an antiseptic at concentrations of 2.5-3%. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Hydrogen Peroxide in its list of substances affirmed Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for use in food. Hydrogen peroxide is used as an antimicrobial agent, an oxidizing and reducing agent, and bleaching agent in foods such as milk and cheese products, wine, vinegar, starch and instant tea. The FDA also allows Hydrogen Peroxide to be used in Over-the-Counter (OTC) first aid antiseptics. Hydrogen Peroxide is added to cosmetics and personal care products as an antimicrobial agent and as an oxidizing agent. The function of antimicrobial agents is to kill or inhibit the growth or reproduction of microorganisms. In cosmetics and personal care products, oxidizing agents are used to form dyestuffs during oxidative hair dyeing, and to oxygenate stains on the teeth to further whiten the teeth.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Niacinamide and Niacin on its list of direct food substances affirmed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Both ingredients are also GRAS as nutrients and/or dietary supplements. The safety of Niacinamide and Niacin has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the available scientific data and concluded that Niacinamide and Niacin were safe in the current practices of use and concentration in cosmetics and personal care products. Niacinamide (aka nicotinamide) and Niacin (aka nicotinic acid) are heterocyclic aromatic compounds which function in cosmetics primarily as hair and skin conditioning agents. Niacinamide is used in around 30 cosmetic formulations including shampoos, hair tonics, skin moisturizers, and cleansing formulations. Niacin is used in a few similar product types. The concentration of use of Niacinamide varies from a low of 0.0001% in night preparations to a high of 3% in body and hand creams, lotions, powders and sprays. Niacin concentrations of use range from 0.01% in body and hand creams, lotions, powders and sprays to 0.1% in paste masks (mud packs). Both ingredients are accepted for use in cosmetics in Japan and the European Union. Both are GRAS direct food additives and nutrient and/or dietary supplements. Niacinamide may be used in clinical treatment of hypercholesteremia and Niacin in prevention of pellegra and treatment of certain psychological disorders. Both ingredients are readily absorbed from skin, blood, and the intestines and widely distribute throughout the body. Metabolites include N1-methylnicotinamide and N1-methyl-4-pyridone-3-carboxamide. Excretion is primarily through the urinary tract. While Niacinamide is more toxic than Niacin in acute toxicity studies, both are relatively non-toxic. Short-term oral, parenteral, or dermal toxicity studies did not identify significant irreversible effects. Niacinamide, evaluated in an in vitro test to predict ocular irritation, was not an acute ocular hazard. Animal testing of Niacinamide in rabbits in actual formulations produced mostly non-irritant reactions, with only some marginally irritating responses. Skin irritation tests of up to 2.5% Niacinamide in rabbits produced only marginal irritation. Skin sensitization tests of Niacinamide at 5% during induction and 20% during challenge were negative in guinea pigs. Neither cosmetic ingredient was mutagenic in Ames tests, with or without metabolic activation. Niacinamide and Niacin at 2 mg/ml were negative in a chromosome aberration test in Chinese hamster ovary cells, but did produce large structural chromosome aberrations at 3 mg/ml. Niacinamide induced sister chromatid exchanges in Chinese hamster ovary cells, but Niacin did not. Under certain circumstances, Niacinamide can cause an increase in unscheduled DNA synthesis in human lymphocytes treated with UV or a nitrosoguanidine compound. Niacinamide itself was not carcinogenic when administered (1%) in the drinking water of mice. No data on the carcinogenic effect of Niacin were available. Niacinamide can moderate the induction of tumors by established carcinogens. Niacinamide in combination with streptozotocin (a nitrosourea compound) or with heliotrine (a pyrrolizidine alkaloid), produced pancreatic islet tumors. On the other hand, Niacinamide reduced the renal adenomas produced by streptozotocin; and intestinal and bladder tumors induced by a preparation of bracken fern. Niacinamide evaluated in in vitro test systems did affect development, but Niacinamide reduced the reproductive/developmental toxicity of 2-aminonicotinamide-amino-1,3,4-thiadiazole hydrochloride and urethane. Clinical testing of Niacinamide produced no stinging sensation at concentrations up to 10%, use tests produced no irritation at concentrations up to 5%, and a 21-day cumulative irritation test at concentrations up to 5% resulted in no irritancy. Niacinamide was not a sensitizer, nor was it a photosensitizer. The CIR Expert Panel considered that Niacinamide and Niacin are sufficiently similar from a toxicologic standpoint to combine the available data and reach a conclusion on the safety of both as cosmetic ingredients. Overall, these ingredients are non-toxic at levels considerably higher than would be experienced in cosmetic products. Clinical testing confirms that these ingredients are not significant skin irritants, sensitizers or photosensitizers. While certain formulations were marginal to slight ocular irritants, other formulations were not. Niacinamide, while not carcinogenic alone, can modulate the induction of tumors by certain established carcinogens. The Panel noted that the doses in these studies are high relative to the low concentrations at which Niacinamide is used in cosmetic formulations. In neither case (tumor protection or tumor promotion) are these findings considered relevant to the use of Niacinamide at its current low concentrations of use in cosmetics. Both ingredients were considered safe as used in cosmetics.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Piper Longum Fruit Extract is the extract of the fruit of the Long Pepper, Piper longum L., Piperaceae. The fruit contains 1% volatile oil, resin, alkaloids Piperin and piperlonguminine, a waxy alkaloid N-isobutyl deca-trans-2-trans-4-dienamide and a terpenoid substance. The roots have piperine, periongumine or piplartin, dihydro-stigmasterol, which have been the reason that it is popularly used in traditional practice to promote respiratory health. In a few weeks-clinical study with 20 children Piper longum extract significantly benefited respiratory function. It has been known to effectively reduce passive cutaneous anaphylaxis in rats and proteacted guinea pigs against antigen induced bronchospasm. (Dahanukar.S et.al.Indian Drugs 19:271(1982). Major chemical constituents: Essential oil. Mono and sesquiterpenes, caryophyllene (mainly), Piperine, Piperlongumine, Piperlonguminine, Pipernonaline, Piperundecalidine, Pipercide, Sesamin, B- sitosterol four aristolactams (cepharanone B. aristolactum All. Piperlactum A and  piperolactam B) five 4-5 dioxoaporphines etc. The essential oil of the fruit P. longum is a complex mixture, the three major components of which are (excluding the volatile piperine) caryophyllene and pentadecane (both about 17.8%) and bisaboline (11%). Others include thujine, terpinoline, zingiberine, pcymene, p-methoxy acetophenone and dihydrocarveol. Long pepper contains less essential oil than its relatives (about 1%), which consists of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and ethers (bisabolene, β-caryophyllene, β-caryophyllene oxide, each 10 to 20%; α-zingiberene, 5%), and saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons such as 18% pentadecane, 7% tridecane, 6% heptadecane. The essential oil of the fruits showed fungicidal activity of P. longum L. The fruit-derived materials was tested towards six phytopathogenic fungi, Pyricularia oryzae, Rhizoctonia solani, Botrytis cineria, Phytophthora infestans, Puccinia recondita, and Erysiphe graminis using a whole plant in vivo method 42-44. A piperidine alkaloid, pipernonaline, was isolated from the hexane fraction of P.longum showed a potent fungicidal activity against P. recondita with 91% and 80% control values at the concentration of 0.5 and 0.25 mg ml−1.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch is a hydrolysate of wheat starch derived by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolysis. Naturally derived, hydrolyzed wheat starch contains wheat oligosaccharides and constitutes a unique hydrating complex offering a combination of moisture-balancing and film-forming properties that work synergistically to give hair better body control, and skin, a smoother softer feel. There are no adverse effects reported or expected from this well-established hair and skin softener.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Zinc oxide (C1 77947). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists Zinc Oxide as a color additive exempt from certification. Zinc Oxide is safe for use in coloring products, including cosmetics and personal care products applied to the lips, and the area of the eye, provided it meets certain specifications. Zinc Oxide is also an approved colorant for drugs, and it is approved as an indirect food additive for use as a colorant of some polymers in contact with food. The FDA has also approved the use of Zinc Oxide for use in OTC skin protectants and ano-rectal skin protectant drug products at concentrations up to 25%, and in sunscreen drug products at concentrations up to 25%. FDA also includes Zinc Oxide on its list of substances considered Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) as a nutrient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has deferred evaluation of this ingredient because the safety has been assessed by FDA. This deferral of review is according to the provisions of the CIR Procedures. The SCCS concludes that ZnO nanomaterials with the following characteristics can be considered similar to the ZnO nanomaterials as evaluated in opinion SCCS/1489/12 and thus pose no or limited risk for use on the skin as UV filter in sunscreen formulations: 1. ZnO nanoparticles of purity ≥96%, with wurtzite crystalline structure and physical appearance as clusters that are rod-like, star-like and/or isometric shapes, with impurities consisting only of carbon dioxide and water, whilst any other impurities are less than 1% in total. 2. ZnO nanoparticles with a median diameter (D50: 50% of the number below this diameter) of the particle number size distribution above 30 nm, and the D1 (1% below this size) above 20nm. 3. ZnO nanoparticles that are either uncoated or coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, dimethicone, dimethoxydiphenylsilanetriethoxycaprylylsilane cross-polymer, or octyl triethoxy silane. Other cosmetic ingredients can be used as coatings as long as they are demonstrated to the SCCS to be safe and do not affect the particle properties related to behaviour and/or effects, compared to the nanomaterials covered in the current opinion.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Behenyl Alcohol is a white, waxy solids. Isostearyl Alcohol is a clear liquid. Fatty alcohols are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes synthetic fatty alcohols including Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Myristyl Alcohol on its list of food additives permitted for direct addition to food as multipurpose food additives. Synthetic fatty alcohols are also permited as indirect food additives as adjuvants and production aids. The safety of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that these fatty alcohols were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. In 2005, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

Creatine. Glycine, N-(Aminoiminomethyl)-N-Methyl-.  Creatine is naturally produced in the human body from amino acids primarily in the kidney and liver. It is transported in the blood for use by muscles. Approximately 95% of the human body's total creatine is located in skeletal muscle. Beiersdorf scientists show creatine benefits in anti-ageing and skin care products. A group of scientists from Beiersdorf Research and Development have completed research that states that the nitrogenous organic acid creatine could represent a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin ageing. Cutaneous aging is characterized by a decline in cellular energy metabolism, which is mainly caused by detrimental changes in mitochondrial function. The processes involved seem to be predominantly mediated by free radicals known to be generated by exogenous noxes, e.g., solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Basically, skin cells try to compensate any loss of mitochondrial energetic capacity by extra-mitochondrial pathways such as glycolysis or the creatine kinase (CK) system. Recent studies reported the presence of cytosolic and mitochondrial isoenzymes of CK, as well as a creatine transporter in human skin. In this study, we analyzed the cutaneous CK system, focusing on those cellular stressors known to play an important role in the process of skin aging. According to results, a stress-induced decline in mitochondrial energy supply in human epidermal cells correlated with a decrease in mitochondrial CK activity. In addition, the effects of creatine supplementation on human epidermal cells as a potential mechanism to reinforce the endogenous energy supply in skin. Exogenous creatine was taken up by keratinocytes and increased CK activity, mitochondrial function and protected against free oxygen radical stress. New data clearly indicate that human skin cells that are energetically recharged with the naturally occurring energy precursor, creatine, are markedly protected against a variety of cellular stress conditions, like oxidative and UV damage in vitro and in vivo. This may have further implications in modulating processes, which are involved in premature skin aging and skin damage.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is an extract of the Alga, Undaria pinnatifida, Alariaceae. Undaria pinnatifida. Sea Mustard, Wakame, Japanese Kelp. The algae has resistance against harsh environmental stress (UV light, water movements and abrasions) that is related to its content of a special sulphated polysaccharide called fucoidan that protects the algae’s body wall from losing integrity and stability. It contains proteins, lipids, micronutrients, vitamins and sugar that lead to a revitalizing and energizing action on skin cells. It has been reported that fucoidan has radical scavenging and hyaluronidase inhibitory properties. It is these properties that make Wakame a useful antiaging active ingredient in cosmetics. Supplier: Crodarom produces a glycerin/aqueous extract of U. pinnatifida (Phytessence Wakame) and has shown that the protection of hyaluronic acid degradation by inhibition of hyaluronidase enzyme activity prevents deterioration of skin tissues, decrease of dermal thickness and improved firmness.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Pyrus Malus Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of thee Apple, Pyrus malus L., Rosaceae. Traditional use: They are a good first aid. Use them raw as a poultice, or bake them and extract the pulp. Use this pulp on the eyes to relieve any kind of strain or inflammation. Over-ripe apples are used in some parts of England to relieve rheumatic and weak eyes. Apple can be used as a poultice for strains. Apple cider vinegar is an excellent cosmetic aid and can be mixed with rosewater for a daily restorative face splash. Pyrus malus is the scientific name for the apple. Apple-derived ingredients (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Flower Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Water, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Juice, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Oil, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pectin Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Peel Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Peel Powder, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Peel Wax, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Root Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Oil, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Stem Extract) are obtained from the fruit, leaf, stem, root or flower of the plant Pyrus malus. In cosmetics and personal care products, the ingredients derived from Pyrus malus are used in the formulation of a wide variety of products including hair conditioners, hand and body lotions, and shampoos. Apples, the fruit of the plant from which these ingredients are derived, are listed by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) among the 20 most commonly consumed fruits. The FDA includes pectin, including pectin derived from apples, on its list of substances considered Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) as direct food substances. Botanical and botanically derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well-established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics.Apple seed oil is extracted from the seed Kernels of apple, by the cold press and filteration process. It is most stable natural oil and it is found to be good source of oleic acid and linoleic acid. Cold pressed oil are extracted without the use of any kind of solvents. Apple seeds oil is rich in essential fatty acids, (between 85 to 88%) & amino acids compostion of lipids & protein components. Typically apple seed oil contains high levels of linoleic acid (60%) with the other dominant fatty acids being oleic (27.50), palmitic (7.40) and stearic acids,(2%).

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Lactobacillus Ferment is the product obtained from the fermentation of Lactobacillus Lactobacillus fermentum is a Gram-positive species of bacterium in the genus Lactobacillus. It is associated with active dental caries lesions. It is also commonly found in fermenting animal and plant material. It has been found in sourdough. A few strains are considered probiotic or "friendly" bacteria in animals and at least one strain has been applied to treat urogenital infections in women. A patent was issued that claimed The present invention concerns methods and compositions for prophylactic or therapeutic treatment of skin disorders by administering therapeutically or prophylactically effective amounts of a probiotic and is also concerned with the treatment of symptoms of skin disorders. Lactobacillus is used for skin disorders such as fever blisters, canker sores, eczema (allergic dermatitis); and acne. It is also used for high cholesterol, lactose intolerance, Lyme disease, hives, and to boost the immune system. Women sometimes use lactobacillus suppositories to treat vaginal infections and urinary tract infections (UTIs). In light of the evidence there are few concerns for the topical application of this material.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Propanediol is a skin-friendly, natural and petroleum-free glycol alternative for the cosmetics and personal care market. It is available as an approved by Ecocert™ and certified by the Natural Products Association (NPA), Zemea® is a 100% natural ingredient.It is the perfect glycol alternative for formulations where non-petroleum based ingredients are desired. Benefits include its high purity, lack of skin irritation or sensitization, improved humectancy, excellent aesthetics and environmentally sustainable nature. It is currently being used in many major hair and skin care brands around the world. Zemea® propanediol can be used to replace glycols such as propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), butylene glycol (1,3-/1,4-butanediol) or glycerin. Depending on your formulation needs, it can function as: Emollient, Humectant, Solvent, Hand-feel Modifier, Viscosity Enhancer, Botanical Extraction and Dilution, as a carrier for active ingredients, Ingredient for natural esters and ethers, Ingredient in natural preservative systems.  

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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The term rheology describes the flow characteristics of liquids and the deformation of solids. Viscosity is an expression of the resistance of a fluid to flow. Rheological properties are crucial for liquid and semiliquid cosmetic formulations because they determine the product’s properties meaningful in mixing and flow when produced, filled into containers and removed before use, as well as sensory properties when applied, such as consistency, spreadability, and smoothness.

Furthermore, the rheology of a product may also affect the physical stability and the biological availability of the product. Regarding rheological characteristics, there are two main types of systems: Newtonian and non-Newtonian.

The former show constant viscosity when stressed, i.e., the rate of shear (flow velocity) is directly proportional to the shearing stress, e.g., water, mineral oil, etc. In non-Newtonian systems (most cosmetic products), however, viscosity changes with varying stress, i.e., viscosity depends on the degree of shearing stress, resulting either in plastic, pseudoplastic, or dilatant flow or in thixothropy, characteristics that are not discussed in depth here although they are of practical significance. An ideal topical product, e.g., shows optimal thixotropic properties; it does not flow out of a tube’s orifice unless slightly pressed, and when on the skin it does not immediately flow and drop off unless easily spread over the application area, where under a certain stress it becomes more fluid because of the thixotropy. The rheological properties of semisolid products are determined first for general characterization in the development phase and second for quality-control reasons after manufacturing. There are various instrumental methods used to measure rheology or viscosity. Today, apparatus based on rotation or oscillation are commonly used for non-Newtonian systems.

In order to adjust the rheology of products, various means and excipients are available. If the viscosity has to be increased, addition of viscosity increasing agents is needed. Addition or increase in concentration of electrolytes may influence viscosity. Many systems, e.g., polyacrylates, are sensitive to the presence of ions and the viscosity is reduced. In particular, emulsions are susceptible to rheological issues. Various factors determine the rheological properties of emulsions, such as viscosity of internal and external phases, phase volume ratio, particle size distribution, type and concentration of emulsifying system, and viscosity-modifying agents.

It is important to realize that small changes in concentrations or ratio of certain ingredients may result in drastic changes of the rheological characteristics. Emulsified products may undergo a wide variety of shear stresses during either preparation or use. Thus, an emulsion formulation should be robust enough to resist external factors that could modify its rheological properties or the product should be designed so that change in rheology results in a desired effect.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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A stick is a solid delivery vehicle cast in an elongated form. By rubbing a stick onto skin, a variety of cosmetic ingredients can be delivered, such as fragrances, coloring agents, and emollients. In particular, sticks are ideally suited to deliver insoluble substances, e.g., pigments.

The most popular cosmetic sticks are lipsticks and antiperspirant/deodorant sticks.

There are mainly three basic vehicle types of sticks:

1. Mixture of waxes (e.g., beeswax, carnauba) and oils (e.g., mineral, castor oil) that are cast into solid form, containing dissolved or undissolved active ingredients
2. Hydrophilic or aqueous sticks: solutions based on aqueous, propylene glycol, alcohol mixtures, solidified usually by sodium stearate, containing, e.g., aluminium chlorohydrate as antiperspirant
3. Matrix consisting of a high-boiling volatile silicone (e.g., cyclomethicone) gelled by fatty alcohol (e.g., stearyl alcohol)

In recent years, clear sticks have become popular. As a gelling agent, dibenzylidene sorbitol is used in propylene glycol or other related polyols.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Suspensions are not just vehicles but products consisting of particles, generally actives or functional excipients, that are dispersed in a liquid or semisolid medium that functions as a vehicle. Nevertheless, a suspension is also a type of formulation that may be used for application on the skin and to deliver substances to a target. In this way, a suspension can be regarded as a vehicle entity affecting the application site. Examples are sun-protection products or pearlescent nail lacquers containing pigments.

In suspension, sedimentation of unsoluble particles may happen because of difference in density. In order to guarantee a homogeneous product when applied, the particles must be redispersible by shaking before use. Alternatively, sedimentation must be hindered or at least reduced during storage. This is achieved by reduction of particle size and/or by increasing the viscosity of the vehicle, ideally creating a thixotropic system. The vehicle effect of the suspension on the skin is primarily caused by the liquid or semisolid phase of the vehicle comparable to solutions and emulsions.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Microemulsion is defined as a system of water, oil, and amphiphile, which is a single optically isotropic and thermodynamically stable liquid solution. ‘‘This definition should be widened, however, to include metastable states, spontaneous emulsions of long-lived kinetic stability.’’ The term microemulsion may be a misnomer, because microemulsions consist of large or ‘‘swollen’’ micelles containing the internal phase, much like that found in a solubilized solution.

Microemulsions contain oil droplets in a water phase or water droplets in oil with diameters of about 10 to 200 nm. Therefore they appear as isotropic, optically clear liquid or gel-like systems. Unlike micellar solubilized systems, microemulsions may not be thermodynamically stable; nevertheless, they are more stable than ordinary emulsions. They are a type of ternary system composed from water, lipid, and surfactant mixture in a distinct ratio

Microemulsions may be used to incorporate or dissolve active substances and have been found to improve skin penetration and permeation.
The disadvantage of microemulsions is their rather high concentration of surfactants, which is a risk for increased skin irritation and sensitization. Nevertheless, modern microemulsion formulation is based on alkyl polyglycosides which are regarded to be milder than conventional nonionic surfactants with polyoxyethylene chains.

Hydrogels are hydrophilic, consisting mainly (85–95%) of water or an aqueous-alcoholic mixture and the gelling agent.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Hydrogels are hydrophilic, consisting mainly (85–95%) of water or an aqueous-alcoholic mixture and the gelling agent. The latter is usually an organic polymeric compound such as polyacrylic acid (Carbopol), sodium carboxy methylcellulose, or nonionic cellulose-ethers. Hydrogels have to be preserved against microbial growth.
After application, hydrogels show a cooling effect caused by evaporation of the solvent. They are easily applicable and humidify instantaneously, but if applied over a long time they desiccate the skin. For that reason, humectants such as glycerol may be added. After evaporation, the polymer residue may cause a sticky or ‘‘tearing’’ feel on the skin if inappropriate thickening agents have been used. Careful selection and testing of the needed adjuvants is therefore recommended.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Gels are dispersed systems, originally liquids (solutions) that have a certain consistency useful and practical for topical application. In contrast to emulsions, gels generally do not comprise two immiscible phases of opposite lyophilicity. Therefore, the polarity and solubility characteristics of the incorporated substances are either hydrophilic—in hydrogels—or lipophilic—in lipogels (or oleogels). The consistency of gels is caused by gelling (thickening) agents, usually polymers, building a three dimensional network. Intermolecular forces bind the solvent molecules to the polymeric network, and thus the reduced mobility of these molecules results in a structured system with increased viscosity.

Pure gels are transparent and clear or at least opalescent. Transparency is only achieved if all ingredients are dissolved or occur at least in colloidal form, i.e., the size of particles is in the submicron range. Transparency in particular is an attractive property of gels. Gel products have positive aesthetic characteristics and are thus becoming more and more popular in cosmetic care products today. Gels can also serve as the basis for more complex formulations:

• Solid particles can be incorporated, resulting in stabilized suspensions
• Incorporation of oily lipids results in so-called hydrolipid dispersions or quasiemulsions

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Melasma manifests as increased pigmentation in the face, typically symmetric patches or macules are found on either side, with a tendency to occur on the sunexposed
areas of the face (cheeks, upper lips). This disorder is much more common in women than men (a ratio of 9:1) and in persons with high-grade phototype.
Major etiologic factors include genetic influences, female sex hormones, and exposure to UV radiation. Histopathology findings indicate hyperpigmentation in all epidermal layers caused by an increase in melanin and also the number of active melanocytes. A flattening of the epidermal rete ridges has been reported, suggesting that keratinocytic proliferation may not be involved in melasma. Pathogenesis is poorly understood. A recent study indicated that the high expression of α-MSH in keratinocytes of the melasmic lesions was a major factor. Treatment options are prevention using good broad-spectrum sunscreen, retinoids, α-hydroxy acids, and hydroquinone.

Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic development - Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts

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In the development of cosmetic products, it is crucial to introduce the laboratory sample into production settings to ensure its safe and consistent manufacturing. This process involves the scale-up phase, where progressively larger batch sizes are employed during pilot productions. This ensures that the final product replicates the characteristics of the sample created during product development.

Scaling up can be done by increasing the size tenfold or up to twenty times. For instance, if a 100-gram sample is produced, the next step would be a one-kilogram sample, followed by a 10-20 kg batch, and finally, the final production size.

Pilot productions are also necessary to mitigate risks. If a sample fails to yield the same results as the previous one, production can be repeated to ensure consistent quality. This risk reduction is achieved by identifying and rectifying issues early on in the process.

During the scale-up process, the physical parameters and stability of the sample must be thoroughly examined.

Scaling up is most efficient when different sized equipment utilizes the same technology.

Measurement uncertainty can also introduce variability into the final product. With small batches, even highly precise scales can yield significant deviations. This variability can be eliminated through the scale-up process.

Upon completion of the scale-up process, the final batch size, production documentation, and physical parameters are established. This allows for the product's introduction into mass production and the evaluation of manufacturing quality.

Additional Points:

The scale-up process should be documented in detail to ensure consistency and reproducibility.
Analytical testing should be conducted throughout the scale-up process to monitor product quality.
Any deviations from the expected results should be investigated and resolved promptly.
A well-defined scale-up process is essential for ensuring the successful transition of cosmetic products from lab to market.

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The world turned its attention to fenugreek (T foenum graecum) for its source of diosgenin.
Fenugreek or foenugreek seeds are emollient and accelerate the healing of suppurations and inflammations.
Externally cooked with water into a porridge and used as hot compresses on boils and abscesses in a similar manner to the use of linseed.
Decoctions of whole plant are used as a bath for uterus infections. The seeds are tonic, restorative, aphrodisiac, and galactagogue. Their emollient properties are useful for the itch. A cataplasm obtained by boiling the flour of the seeds with vinegar and saltpeter is used for swelling of the spleen.
Extracts of the seeds are incorporated into several cosmetics claimed to have effect on premature hair loss, and as a skin cleanser, and it is also reported in Java in hair tonics and to cure baldness. Many of the herbal materials found to have
an effect on hair growth have a hormonal or hormonalmimetic basis.

Likewise, there are a number of references to fenugreek having galactagogue (increase milk in nursing mothers) activity, which again is indicative of an estrogen-like
activity. The plant should be used with caution as fenugreek is reputed to be oxytocic and in vitro uterine stimulant activity has been documented, so the use of fenugreek during pregnancy and lactation in doses greatly exceeding those normally encountered in foods is not advisable.

Source: The internal and external use of medicinal plants - Anthony C. Dweck, FLS, FRSC, FRSH

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It is a curious fact, but there are no legal definitions of natural and this provides much subject for debate and litigation as law enforcement agencies argue interpretation with marketers of products placed onto the market.
We would define natural as any material that is harvested, mined, or collected, and which may have subsequently been washed, decolorized, distilled, fractionated, ground, milled, separated, or concentrated to leave a chemical or chemicals that would be available and detectable in the original source material. It is also the modification of natural material by the action of microorganisms, enzymes, or yeasts to modify or increase the yield of material by this process.
Naturally derived materials are defined by the use of a natural raw material as the starting point in a chemical process to produce a newchemical or chemicals that in themselves may not be available in nature or in the starting material.
Nature identical material is a substance that has been produced synthetically, not usually from a natural starting material, to produce a material that is identical to that naturally occurring in nature.

The concept of 'natural' is complex and lacks a universal definition. However, an ISO standard for natural ingredients has been established.

ISO 16128-2:2017 describes approaches to calculate natural, natural origin, organic and organic origin indexes that apply to the ingredient categories defined in ISO 16128‑1. This document also offers a framework to determine the natural, natural origin, organic and organic origin content of products based on the ingredient characterization.

ISO 16128 provides guidelines on definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. These guidelines are specific to the cosmetics sector, taking into account that most existing approaches written for the agricultural and food sector are not directly transferrable to cosmetics. They apply scientific judgment and offer principles towards a consistent logical framework for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products incorporating common approaches employed in existing references. The purpose of these guidelines is to encourage a wider choice of natural and organic ingredients in the formulation of a diverse variety of cosmetic products to encourage innovation.

Source: The internal and external use of medicinal plants - Anthony C. Dweck, FLS, FRSC, FRSH and iso.org

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