European Inventory of Existing Chemical Substances. An official inventory published on 15 June, 1990, that enumerates and describes the chemicals on the market of the European Union between January 1, 1971 and September 18, 1981 and identifies the chemicals being exempted of the mandatory 'precommercialisation' notification. The EINECS Inventory can be searched from different online sources including from the Publication Office of the European Commission.

Source: https://ec.europa.eu/

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Chemical Abstracts Service Registry. A registry of unique numeric identifiers allocated to each substance. A CAS Registry Number (abbreviated CASN, CASRN or CAS#) can contain up to 10 digits, divided by hyphens into 3 parts. The first part of the number has up to 7 digits; the second part has 2 digits, and the final part consists of a single check digit used to verify by computer the validity and uniqueness of the entire number. The full CAS Registry can be searched from different online sources.

Source: https://ec.europa.eu/

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Although less popular than o/w emulsions, these systems may be desirable when greater release of a medicating agent or the perception of greater emolliency is desired. Emulsifiers having an HLB range of 2.5 to 6 are frequently selected. When multiple emulsifiers are used, the predominant one is generally lipophilic with a smaller quantity of a hydrophilic emulsifier. These emulsions typically have a total of 45 to 80% oil phase.

Nowdays, formulators have become interested in more elegant w/o emulsions. This has been achieved by formulating with new emulsifying agents, emollient such as esters, Guerbet alcohols, and silicones. Selection of a suitable emollient depends on ability of the material to spread on skin with low tack, dermal compatibility, and perceived elegance by the user. In achieving this elegance, some researchers suggest a correlation of emollient and molecular weight of the emollients. In these studies, viscosity of w/o creams has correlated with molecular weight of the emollients used in test formulations.

High–molecular-weight co-emulsifiers formulated with high–molecular-weight emollients gave more stable w/o emulsions. The polarity of the emollients used was found to be important as well.

Emollients or mixtures of emollients with medium polarity gave test lotions the most desirable stability results. Anionic emulsifiers are generally inefficient w/o emulsion stabilizers, because more surface active agents are often needed to stabilize these emulsions. Sorbitan stearates and oleates are effective emulsifiers when
used at 0.5 to 5.0% sorbitan isostearates, being branched chain materials, give a very uniform particle size for w/o emulsions.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Oil-in-water emulsions typically contain 10 to 35% oil phase, and a lower viscosity emulsion may have an oil phase reduced to 5 to 15%. Water in the external phase of the emulsion helps hydrate the stratum corneum of the skin. This is desirable when one desires to incorporate water-soluble active ingredients in the vehicle. Oil droplets in emulsions have a lower density than the phase they are suspended in; to have a stable emulsion it is important to adjust the specific gravity of the oil and water phases as closely as possible.

Viscosity of the water phase (external phase) may be increased to impede the upward migration of the oil particles. Addition of waxes to the oil phase will increase specific gravity but have a profound effect on the appearance, texture, and feel on application to skin of the product. Increasing water-phase viscosity is one of the most common approaches.

Natural thickeners (alginates, caragenates, xanthan) and cellulosic (carboxymethyl cellulose) gums are used for this purpose.
Carbopol resin is perhaps the most popular gum thickener for contributing towards emulsion stability, especially at higher temperatures. The addition of a fatty amine to a Carbopol resin will further enhance stability by strengthening the interface of the water and oil phases through partial solubilization into the oil droplets. Electrolytes and cationic materials will have a destabilizing effect on anionic sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and should not be used together. Veegum, an inorganic aluminum silicate material, is also commonly used to thicken emulsions. Carbopol and Veegum may be used together to modify the characteristic draggy feel of Carbopol when used at the higher levels.

Emulsifier blends with HLBs ranging from 7 to 16 are used for forming o/w emulsions. In the blend, the hydrophilic emulsifier should be formulated as the predominate
emulsifier to obtain the best emulsion. A popular emulsifier, the glycerol monostearate and polyoxyethylene stearate blend is self-emulsifying and acid-stable. Emulsifiers are called self-emulsifying when an auxiliary anionic or nonionic emulsifier is added for easier emulsification of the formulation. Formulating with self-emulsifying materials containing nonionic emulsifiers permit a wide range of ingredient choice for the formulator, especially with acid systems. In alkaline formulations, polyoxyethylene ether–type emulsifiers are preferred with respect to emulsion stability.

An alternative to glycerol monostearate self-emulsifying emulsifier is Emulsifying Wax, National Formulary (NF). This emulsifier, when used with a fatty alcohol will form viscous liquids to creams depending on the other oil-phase ingredients used. Use levels may vary from 2 to 15%; at lower levels a secondary emulsifier such as the oleths or PEG-glycerides will give good stability. This system is good for stabilizing electrolyte emulsions or when other ionic materials are formulated into the vehicle. Polysorbates are o/w emulsifiers, wetting agents, and solubilizers often used with cetyl or stearyl alcohol at 0.5 to 5.0% to produce o/w emulsions.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Panthenol is the biologically active alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid, a vitamin of the B-complex group, which is a normal constituent of skin and hair. Pantothenic acid, also called Vitamin B5, carries out its function in the body as an element of co-enzyme A, a molecule composed of cysteamine, ATP, and pantothenic acid. This substance is present in all living cells and serves a vital role in the metabolism of a variety of enzyme-catalyzed reactions by which energy is released from carbohydrates, fats, and proteins.

Skin manifestations of pantothenic acid deficiency are well known, and include cornification, depigmentation, and desquamation. Pantothenic acid is an unstable substance. In topical preparations such as skincare, haircare, nailcare, and derma products, pantothenic acid is used in the alcohol form, called panthenol. Its use is based on its dual role as a vitamin precursor and as an ingredient with ideal cosmetic properties. When topically applied, panthenol is absorbed by the skin and can be bioconverted into pantothenic acid. As such it exerts all functions of
vitamin B₅.

Because it has a distinct humectant character, panthenol acts as a skin moisturizer. This hygroscopic substance not only provides water to the skin surface but it also penetrates deep into the epidermis and brings water to, and retains water in, the inside of the skin. Panthenol imparts a smooth, light feel to the skin without any greasiness or stickiness. Because it is well tolerated by the skin, it is an ideal and widely used ingredient in baby care products as well as in products for sensitive skin.
Topically applied panthenol stimulates epithelization as was shown by Weiser and Erlemann. Superficial wounds treated with creams containing 5% panthenol reduced the healing time by 30% compared with placebo. Favorable effects were also reported in many kinds of skin disorders accompanied by inflammatory reactions such as burns, nipple fissures, eczemas, and many others. Another application field of panthenol is, therefore, derma products for wound healing and for soothing of inflammatory disorders where it is usually incorporated in concentrations of 5%. The concentrations in cosmetics vary mainly from 0.3 to 2%.

The use of panthenol in haircare products goes back to the early 1960s, when inflammatory reactions on the scalp were treated with panthenol-containing creams. Panthenol not only showed a soothing effect but also had beneficial effects on the hair. Pantothenic acid is a natural constituent of human hair. Stuettgen applied tritium-labeled panthenol intracutaneously by injection and could show a transport of radioactive material into the hair. Stangl observed a significant increase of pantothenic
acid concentration in the hair after topical application of panthenol over longer periods.

Panthenol acts as a humectant for hair. It builds up a thin moisture film on the surface of the hair and gives hair shine without making it greasy. Panthenol also penetrates
into the hair cuticle and brings moisture to the cortex. This imparts good pliability and manageability properties to the hair, and improves its resistance to mechanical stress such as combing, brushing, and heat blowdrying.

Panthenol can also contribute to give hair more body. A thickening of the hair after 2 minutes exposure to a 2% water solution of panthenol was shown by means of scanning electron microscopy.

The main commercial forms are d-panthenol, dl-panthenol, and ethyl panthenol. All these forms are soluble in e.g., water, ethanol, and propylene glycol, but insoluble in fats and oils. Ethyl panthenol is an ether and available either as d-form or a racemic mixture of d- and l-form. Biological activity has only the d-form, because only d-pantothenic acid is incorporated into coenzyme A.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Skin scrub agents or body polishers are solid materials from natural origin (fine powder of seeds or shells of different vegetables), or are obtained by chemical synthesis (tiny beads of styrene or polyethylene). When the scrub agent–containing body-cleansing product is rubbed or massaged onto the skin, fine solid particles remove superficial skin horny layer by mechanical abrasion, leaving behind a fresh, smooth skin surface.

They are the easiest additives for the consumer to perceive. Scrubbing particles can be suspended in liquid body cleanser thanks to structuring polymers like xanthan gum or carrageenan, which build a viscoelastic network in the surfactant matrix. The scrubbing agent must be carefully selected when formulating facial cleansers. The skin on the face is more sensitive or delicate than that of the rest of the body. For facial application, the formulator should orientate his choices towards, e.g., soft clays or melting jojoba beads.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Amphoteric surfactants are amino acid derivatives; their net charge varies with the pH in solution. At pH below the isoelectric point they are positively charged in aqueous solution and can consequently adsorb more easily onto the skin. Alkyl chain length can also significantly act on the skin feel; some betaines based on C16/C18 cuts provide more greasy, refattened feel but also have detrimental effect on foam. Polydimethylsiloxane grafted with a betaine moiety leads to an amphoteric surfactant combining substantivity, refattening properties as well as silicone typical skin feel profile.

Some nonionics are used for their emollient properties and excellent afterfeel; e.g., sucrose and methyl glucose esters as well as sucrose ethers. Fatty acid alkanolamides are often referred to as refatteners; these are not lipids but they confer a greasy slippery feel to the foam and impart a particular afterfeel on the skin that subjectively compares with refatting. Several mild anionic surfactants are known to provide improved skin feel (afterfeel) by themselves, e.g., sarcosinate, taurate, acylglutamate, and isethionate. Fatty acids–protein condensates salts also act as conditioning aids, imparting a pleasant, smooth feel to the skin. The inclusion of fatty acids in soap and syndet bars contributes to enhance skin feel during and after use, and produces creamier lather. Phosphoric acid fatty esters deliver soap-like skin feel: slipperiness during use, and very good rinseability leaving skin feeling ‘‘clean’’ and powdery.

Benefits brought by additional skin conditioning agents are sometimes hidden by a mild or very mild cleaning-surfactant system delivering by itself very good skin feel properties; the sensorial baseline is high to start with and the increment in performance brought by skin feel agent is leveled off, and sometimes not even perceivable. It is, however, important to notice that several mild anionic and most of the nonionic surfactants, if they provide a pleasant afterfeel, are characterized by a ‘‘water feel’’ (feel in solution) that is often unpleasant, with rough and drag feel sensations.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Polymeric materials can interact both with protein of the skin surface and with skin lipids. Parameters influencing the interaction between skin surface and the polymers are as follows:

1. The positive charge density: the more cationic the character of the polymer, the better the polymer interaction with negatively charged skin surface.
2. The hydrophobicity of polymer: grafting of hydrophobic moieties on the polymer backbone favor van der Waals interactions with hydrophobic areas of the keratin.
3. The molecular weight of the polymer: the higher the polymer size, the more its substantivity to the skin (film-forming properties). However, very low–molecular weight polymers can easily penetrate the skin surface chinks and as such adsorb into the superficial stratum disjonctum.
4. The nature of surfactants neighboring the polymer in the finished product: the polymer can interact with surfactants either through their charges or through hydrophobic interactions; also, competition between polymer and surfactants for skin anchoring sites can occur. In both cases, deposition and adsorption of polymer onto the skin surface is weakened.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Lecithin is a natural mixture of polar and neutral lipids; the word lecithin is also used as the trivial name of a particular phospholipid: phosphatidylcholine. Main vegetable
sources of lecithin used in personal-care products are soybean and maize, egg yolk is practically the only animal source of lecithin used in cosmetics and toiletries. The percentage of polar lipids and their fatty acid pattern are characteristic of the lecithin source.

Bare lecithin, a secondary product of Soya oil extraction, typically contains 60 to 70% polar lipids (mainly phospholipids, namely phosphatidylcholine, and glycolipids) and a remaining 25 to 35% Soy oil. This raw lecithin is further fractionated, purified, and chemically modified to allow easier processing and formulation in toiletry products. Emollient, refattening, and moisturizing properties of lecithin are guided by its content in phospholipids.

Lecithin softens, nourishes, and refattens the skin; it provides a nongreasy, long-lasting skin feel and improves foam feel and quality (creaminess, slipperiness, richness).
Ready-to-use mixtures of phospholipids in surfactant solutions, free of residual Soya oil, are commercially available for an easy incorporation in liquids or bars; some of these compounds allow formulation of clear products.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Lanolin is extracted from sheep wool grease; it is a complex mixture of esters of high molecular weight lanolin alcohols (aliphatic alcohols, sterols, and trimethyl sterols) and of lanolin acids; free lanolin alcohols, acids, and lanolin hydrocarbons are minors. Lanolin alcohols and lanolin oil are recommended as superfatting agents in soaps.

Ethoxylation of the hydroxyl groups of lanolin or of its derivatives leads to hydrophilic, water-soluble lanolin compounds, offering a broad range of useful emollients to the formulator. Some moderately to highly ethoxylated derivatives, recommended for their good emolliency and moisturization properties, are processable in liquid skin cleansers with limited impact on foam profile; as an example, the 75 mol ethoxylated lanolin does not depress foam and is recommended as skin conditioner in soaps, liquid body-cleansing products, and bubble baths. Medium ethoxylates lanolin alcohols have limited impact on foam performances of body cleansing liquids; lower ethoxylates can be formulated in bars.

Propoxylated lanolin alcohols are lipophilic emollients used in soap bars and in other cleansers based on synthetic surfactants. Alkoxylated lanolin derivatives are obtained by reaction with mixtures of propylene and ethylene oxides in various ratios; they are more soluble than ethoxylated lanolin. They serve as refattening and foam stabilizing agents. Esterification of lanolin fatty acid with isopropyl alcohol provides a range of esters of various molecular weights. Medium molecular weight esters are used as superfatting agents in soaps.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Unlike Newtonian fluids, non-Newtonian fluids possess shear-rate dependent viscosities. In addition to shear-rate dependent viscosities, non-Newtonian
fluids also exhibit elastic stresses when subjected to high shear rates. The usefulness of the elastic response varies with application.
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At low shear rates, i.e., near at rest conditions, non-Newtonian fluids exhibit high viscosities that are relatively insensitive to shear rate and characterized by zero shear viscosity. The zero shear viscosity is known to be highly sensitive to the molecular weight and concentration of the rheological additives. The rates of deformation associated with this region include sedimentation and levelling forces, and one can tailor the zero shear viscosity to combat these forces. At moderate shear rates the decrease in viscosity versus shear rate helps when pouring and pumping these fluids. At high shear rates it is found that a second Newtonian plateau in viscosity is reached usually characterised by the so-called infinite viscosity. The shear forces in this area are close in magnitude to forces developed during rubbing and spraying exercises. The low viscosities exhibited by the rheological additives in this region imply low resistance to rubbing and thus a smooth sensation of the substance during its application.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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The viscosity of fluids can be modified by addition of particulates that may strictly change the viscosity index. When non-interacting buoyant particles are used in these
fluids, the viscosity of the dispersion can be predicted using the Einstein relation. Examples of such rheology-modifying substances include silica gels, fumed silica, carbon black, titanium dioxide and aluminum-magnesium-stearates when used at very small concentrations. Low molecular weight polymers also fit in this category and may be preferred if a smooth or fluid like formulation is desired.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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The use of rheological additives such as clays, plant exudates, and natural polymers, to formulate personal-care products dates back to ancient times. These rheological additives are used to thicken the fluid, suspend dispersions of additives in the fluid, and improve the stability of the ensuing dispersion or emulsion as a function of temperature and shear history. An attempt will be made in this chapter to classify the wide array of rheological additives with respect to the actual function they serve in the final product.

Water and oils form the base fluids in which most personal-care and cosmetic products are formulated. These base fluids are generally classed as viscous or Newtonian fluids in that they possess a characteristic viscosity that is independent of the imposed rate of deformation. Newtonian fluids are also viewed as ideal fluids, in that they flow readily when subjected to very low deformations.
Non-Newtonian fluids on the other hand possess viscosities that are dependent on the rate of deformation and may exhibit other properties such as elasticity, yield stress, and thixotropy not seen in Newtonian fluids.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Annatto, or norbixin, is extracted from the Bixa orellana or lipstick tree; it gives a yellow to deep orange color. The plant has entered into commercial cultivation for the production of this dye, which is used mainly in the food industry and for coloring dairy products such as butter and cheese, margarine and edible oils.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (p. 208).

Chelating agents such as phytic acid extracted from rice bran could be added to enhance the activity of the natural preservative. There are a number of suppliers for this material. Another option is to use a naturally produced material such as sodium gluconate. Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid, produced by the fermentation of glucose. It is a white crystalline powder, very soluble in water. Non-corrosive, nontoxic and readily biodegradable (98% after two days), sodium gluconate is an effective chelating agent especially in alkaline and concentrated alkaline solutions.

It forms stable chelates with calcium, iron, copper, aluminum and other heavy metals. It is as effective as other chelating agents, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and related salts. Aqueous solutions of sodium gluconate are resistant to oxidation and reduction, even at high temperatures. However, it is easily degraded biologically (98% after two days) and thus presents no wastewater problem. It is used in the food industry.

Chelating agents interfere with the cellular membranes that surround all organisms and weaken them by depriving them of the trace elements that they need for cellular function. Extremely high levels of chelating agent have been used as preservatives on their own.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (pp. 83-84).

Saponins are glycoside compounds that are often referred to as natural detergents because of their ability to form foaming solutions in water. The majority of naturally occurring saponins are of the triterpenoidal type, with the steroidal based saponins forming a much smaller class. The steroidal saponins are based on a backbone of a (C30) triterpenoid saponin nucleus attached via C3 and an ether bond to a sugar side chain, whereas the steroidal are based on a choline (C27) steroid backbone. The aglycone of the triterpenoidal derivative is known as a sapogenin, whereas the steroidal aglycone derivatives are known as saraponins.

The non-saccharide portion (aglycone) of the saponin molecule is called the “genin” or “sapogenin”. Saponins are divided into three main classes depending on the type of sapogenin present:

• Triterpene glycosides - there are over more than 350 sapogenins and more than 750 triterpene glycosides in the triterpene glycoside class.
• Steroid glycosides  
• Steroid alkaloid glycosides  

The ability of a saponin to foam is caused by the combination of the non-polar sapogenin and the water-soluble side chain present on the molecule. The foams tend to be stable and have been used in fire extinguishers as the foaming agent. They are also used to produce foam in beer and are responsible for the natural foam in root beer. They have been used as the foaming agent in toothpaste and are employed by local people where the plants occur as a shampoo and laundry detergent.

Typical soap plants include Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), Soapbark (Quillaia saponaria), Soaproot (Chlorogalum pomeridianum) and Soapnut (Sapindus spp).

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1)

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder. The kernels from apricots are dried and ground to produce a smooth, soft but gently persuasive powder that can be used to gently slough away dead skin cells. The passage of skin cells from the living epidermis to the top layer of dead stratum corneum is a natural process, and the skin naturally loses millions of dead skin cells each day (they are the major component of dust in the bedroom!). However, this uppermost layer of the skin is often quite coarse and flaky and can spoil the appearance of the complexion, The use of a gentle exfoliant will restore smoothness and softness to the skin, without causing any damage to underlying tissue. The safety of Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated scientific data and concluded that Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal were safe for topical application to humans in the present practices of use and concentration. In 2002, as part of the scheduled re-evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the seeds of the cucumber, Cucumis sativus L., Cucurbitaceae. Sp.gr.: 0.922. Saponification value: 185. Iodine value: 125. Average carbon number: 17.9. Average molecular weight: 278.3. C14:0 0.1%; C16:0 11%; C16:1 0.5%;C17:0 0.05%; C18:0 7.5%; C18:1 17.0%; C18:2 64.0%;C18:3 0.5%; C20:1 0.05%; C22:2 0.1%. It also contains tocopherols 600-700ppm and phytosterols 4000-5000ppm. The seeds are rich in oil with a nutty flavour that is said to resemble olive oil and so is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The high levels of phytosterols should make it a useful ingredient in skin care products. It has been shown that phytosterols help the skin strengthen its lipid barrier and restores the moisture balance, smoothing the skin’s surface and improving skin elasticity. Phytosterols are also known to stimulate skin cells and encourage the regeneration of healthy skin cells. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes cucumber among the 20 most frequently consumed raw vegetables. Botanical and botanically derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Dextrin. White dextrins are prepared by heating dry starch in the presence of an acid at a temperature generally below 150°C. The statement "ADI not specified" means that, on the basis of the available data (toxicological, biochemical, and other), the total daily intake of the substance, arising from its use or uses at the levels necessary to achieve the desired effect and from its acceptable background in food, does not, in the opinion of the Committee, represent a hazard to health. For this reason, and for the reasons stated in individual evaluations, the establishment of an acceptable daily intake (ADI) in mg/kg bw is not deemed necessary.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Geraniol is a sweet, rose-like fragrancing agent found in fruits such as apples, cherries and grapefruit, as well as in bay leaves, citronella oil, ginger, lavender and essential oils of geranium and lemon. It can also be produced synthetically. It is used in both perfumes and after-shaves (especially in combination with attar of roses and orange blossom oil), as well as bath and body care, depilatories, hair care, lipsticks and suncare. It is one of the declared allergens found in those essential oils. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Geraniol on its lists of flavoring substance considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). The safety of Geraniol has been evaluated by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Expert Panel (REXPAN). Based on this evaluation, an International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard has been established. The IFRA Standard restricts the use of Geraniol in fragrances because of potential sensitization. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) defers review of individual fragrance ingredients to the IFRA program unless the ingredient has significant uses other than as a fragrance.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Ginkgo biloba. Traditional use: Long revered in traditional Chinese herbal medicine, ginkgo is now known to have important implications in the treatment of age-related disorders and circulatory problems. The Council of Europe lists the following cosmetic effects attributed to ginkgo biloba extracts: tonic, stimulant and vasodilator. Folklore: The ginkgo species was almost destroyed during the Ice Age but survived in China, where it was cultivated as a sacred tree, with the exception of the Maidenhair tree, the plants of this order are found only as fossils. Individual trees may live as long as 1000 years.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Kojic acid, the chemical name 5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyrone, is used in cosmetic products as a skin whitening or depigmenting agent. Kojic acid is a chelating agent produced by several species of fungi, especially Aspergillus oryzae, which has the Japanese common name of koji. It is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice, when producing sake (Japanese rice wine). It is used in food and cosmetics to help preserve against color changes. Kojic acid also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Kojic acid markedly inactivated isolated tyrosinase by chelation. In cultured human melanocytes, tyrosinase activity per well was slightly reduced at the concentration range between 0.1 mM and 0.5 mM but was rapidly dose-dependently reduced at higher concentration. The inhibitory effect of kojic acid on tyrosinase activity in the cell culture system is smaller than that of arbutin at concentrations that do not affect cell viability, even though marked inactivation was observed in isolated tyrosinase. There are conflicting reports on the effectiveness in kojic acid. [Maeda and Fukuda]. Kojic acid may take two to three months to show efficacy and thus may seem rather slow to be effective.  However, kojic acid does not have any side effects during the 10- to 20-month period during normal application on the skin. Kojic dipalmitate is mentioned in the Inventory of Cosmetic Ingredients, but derivative esters of Kojic acids are also used. The substance is listed as an emollient, whereas Kojic acid itself is listed as an antioxidant. Results of the range finding test indicated that the LD50 was in the range of 4000 to 16000 mg/kg bw. In the main experiment lethargy, piloerection, abnormal body carriage, ataxia and depressed respiration rate were observed shortly after dosing. These signs were accompanied by gasping amongst mice treated at 6400 mg/kg bw. Bodyweight increases of rats treated at 16000 mg/kg bw were slightly depressed during the first week. Recovery of survivors was apparently complete within four days of dosing. Autopsy revealed congestion of the lungs and pallor of the liver, kidneys and spleen in animals died after treatment. The LD50 and its 95% confidence limits were calculated to be 5100 (3900 – 6700) mg/kg bw. No erythema or oedema occurred in the test performed. Kojic acid was not considered to be an irritant to rabbit skin. In the preliminary test and in the first experiment, 3% Kojic acid aqueous solution caused no eye disturbances. In the second experiment mild transient hyperemia was observed in 2 of 4 animals. No other inflammatory changes or corneal disturbances were observed. Eye irritability was reported to be very weak. In the supplementary test no specific response was observed for up to 72 hours. Two out of 20 animals showed a positive reaction, indicating a sensitising potential of the substance. Kojic acid is sensitising in humans. Based on the information provided, margins of safety of respectively 35 (face and hands), 58 (hands) and 88 (face) have been calculated suggesting that the use of Kojic acid at a maximum concentration of 1.0% in skin care formulations poses a risk to the health of the consumer. In addition, other parts of the skin might be exposed to Kojic acid. Kojic acid has the potential to induce skin sensitisation. Relevant data on kinetics of Kojic acid after dermal application may be submitted to refine the MOS approach..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Lavandula Angustifolia Water is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, Labiatae. is distilled from the flower buds of Lavandula angustifolia. It has the fresh, clean scent of lavender has been popular for centuries. The plant is often used as a gentle tonic for the nervous system and is said to soothe headaches and other aches and pains. The soothing and antiseptic qualities make lavender useful in all skin care. This material from the condensate of the distillation of the essential oil contains water soluble constituents as well as a small amount the essential oil and has a strong Lavender scent. It may be used alone as a facial tonic/toner or in blends to soothe irritated or burned skin. No adverse effects are expected or have been reported from the topical use of this material..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Water is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis L., Lamiaceae. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Powder, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Water and Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Water are ingredients made from the herb, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinals). When the ingredient name does not include a plant part, it means that the ingredient is made from the whole plant, rather than a specific plant part. In cosmetics and personal care products, Rosemary-derived ingredients are used in the formulation of a wide variety of product types, including shampoos, shaving products, skin care products, suntan products, bath products, makeup, cleansing products, hair conditioners, permanent waves, shampoos and personal cleanliness products. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) on its list of spices and other natural seasonings and flavorings considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Botanical and botanically-derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics and personal care products..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Zeolite. Zeolites. Crystalline aluminosilicates, composed of silica (SiO2) and alumina (Al2O3), in various proportions plus metallic oxides. Produced by hydrothermal treatment of a solid aluminosilicate or of a gel obtained by the reaction of sodium hydroxide, alumina hydrate and sodium silicate. The initially obtained product, or a naturally occurring analog, may be partially ion-exchanged to introduce other cations. Specific zeolites are identified by notations indicating crystal structure and predominant cation, e.g., KA, CaX, NaY. The safety of Zeolite has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that all seventeen ingredients were safe as used in cosmetics and personal care products. They have a high heat of adsorption and ability to hydrate and dehydrate while maintaining structural stability. This hygroscopic property coupled with an inherent exothermic (heat-producing) reaction when transitioning from a dehydrated to a hydrated form make natural zeolites as self heating source. Extreme Care must be used with Zeolites.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Xanthan gum. It is also known by the friendlier name of corn sugar gum. It is described as a high molecular weight natural carbohydrate (or more specifically polysaccharide), produced by a fermentation process. It is a listed ingredient in the British Pharmacopoeia and also used in foods. When used in creams and lotions it imparts a unique lubricity.

Xanthan gum is used to modify the texture of personal care products and to stabilize suspensions, oil-in-water emulsions and foams against separation. The high viscosity associated with xanthan gum solutions at low shear rates enables products to keep particles suspended or prevent oil droplets from coalescing. The viscosity drops when shear is applied, so that products can be easily removed, poured or squeezed from their containers. Once the force is removed, the solutions regain their initial viscosity almost immediately.

It is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products including makeup, skincare products and toothpaste.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract. Grape seed extract is derived from the small seeds (and occasionally the skins) of red grapes--the same kind that are pressed to make wine. Used extensively in Europe, grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids, phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties some consider even greater than the old standbys vitamin C and vitamin E. Antioxidants are believed to prevent and control numerous ailments by safeguarding cells against free radicals. The main benefit of grape fruit seed extract comes from proanthocyanidins. There are no adverse effect expected from the topical application of this extract. [CAS: 84929-27-1; EINECS: 284-511-6]. Function: Skin protecting.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Stearic acid is a natural fatty acid which occurs in both animals and plants. Many suppliers only use the vegetable-derived source of this wax. It forms the basis of many lotions and emulsions, and helps to protect the skin against moisture loss. It can be made to form a soap in situ with triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, which helps to keep the oil and the water in the emulsion from separating. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Stearic Acid on its list of direct food additives considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Stearic Acid is also permitted as a direct food additive in chewing gum base. The FDA also includes fatty acids on its list of food additives permitted for direct addition to food. The safety of Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid and Palmitic Acid has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data concluded that these ingredients were safe for use in cosmetic products. STEARIC ACID. [CAS: 57-11-4; EINECS: 200-313-4]. Function: Emulsifying/ emulsion stabilising/ refatting/ cleansing.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.