Melasma

What Is Melasma?

Melasma is a pigmentation disorder characterized by increased pigmentation of the skin, most commonly appearing as symmetrical patches or macules on the face. It typically affects sun-exposed areas such as the cheeks and upper lip.

Melasma is considerably more common in women than in men and is particularly prevalent in people with higher phototypes. Major factors associated with its development include genetic influences, female sex hormones, and exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

Pathogenesis of Melasma

Histopathological findings indicate increased pigmentation throughout the epidermal layers, associated with increased melanin production and a higher number of active melanocytes.

The exact pathogenesis of melasma remains incompletely understood. Research has indicated that increased expression of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) in keratinocytes within melasma lesions may contribute to the development of hyperpigmentation.

Cosmetic and Treatment Approaches

Because UV exposure is an important contributing factor, broad-spectrum sun protection is an important part of managing the appearance of melasma.

Approaches traditionally used to address hyperpigmentation include retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), and hydroquinone. Their use and regulatory status depend on the intended application and market.

For cosmetic product development, ingredients and claims should be selected carefully to ensure that the finished product remains within the applicable cosmetic regulatory framework.

References

Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic Development – Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts.