Saponins – Cosmetic Uses in Cleansing and Foaming Products

What Are Saponins?

Saponins are glycoside compounds often referred to as natural detergents because of their ability to form foaming solutions in water.

Most naturally occurring saponins are of the triterpenoidal type, while steroidal saponins represent a smaller class. The non-sugar portion of the molecule is called the aglycone, or sapogenin.

Saponins are generally divided into three main classes:

• Triterpene glycosides
• Steroid glycosides
• Steroid alkaloid glycosides

Cosmetic Applications

The foaming properties of saponins result from the combination of a non-polar sapogenin with a water-soluble sugar side chain. This structure allows saponins to interact with water and contribute to foam formation.

Their natural cleansing and foaming properties have led to their traditional use in personal care products, including shampoos and other cleansing preparations. Saponins have also been used as the foaming agents in toothpaste.

Plants traditionally known for their high saponin content include:

• Yucca (Yucca schidigera)
• Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis)
• Soapbark (Quillaia saponaria)
• Soaproot (Chlorogalum pomeridianum)
• Soapnut (Sapindus spp.)

These plants can provide naturally derived cleansing and foaming materials for cosmetic formulations.

Ingredient Information

Ingredient Type: Glycoside compounds
Main Classes: Triterpene glycosides, steroid glycosides, steroid alkaloid glycosides
Cosmetic Functions: Foaming, Cleansing

References

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1).