Panthenol – Cosmetic Uses in Skin and Hair Care
What Is Panthenol?
Panthenol is the biologically active alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), a member of the vitamin B-complex group. Pantothenic acid is a natural constituent of skin and hair and plays an important role in cellular metabolism as part of coenzyme A.
Because pantothenic acid itself is relatively unstable, cosmetic formulations commonly use its more stable alcohol form, panthenol. After topical application, panthenol can be converted into pantothenic acid in the skin.
Panthenol in Skin Care
Panthenol has a strong humectant character. It attracts and retains water, helping to improve the moisture content of the skin while providing a smooth, lightweight skin feel without excessive greasiness or stickiness.
It is widely used in:
- Moisturisers and creams
- Sensitive-skin products
- Baby care products
- Skin-conditioning formulations
- After-sun and soothing products
- Derma-oriented cosmetic formulations
Panthenol is generally well tolerated and is therefore suitable for formulations intended for sensitive or dry skin.
Panthenol in Hair Care
Panthenol is also widely used in hair care products. It acts as a humectant and forms a thin moisture film on the hair surface, contributing to shine and improved manageability.
Panthenol can also penetrate into the hair cuticle and increase moisture within the hair fibre. This can improve pliability, combability, and resistance to mechanical stress caused by brushing, combing, and blow-drying.
It is commonly incorporated into shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments, and styling products. Studies cited in the source literature have also reported an increase in apparent hair thickness following exposure to panthenol solutions.
Commercial Forms
The main commercial forms include D-panthenol, DL-panthenol, and ethyl panthenol. These forms are soluble in water, ethanol, and propylene glycol but are generally insoluble in fats and oils.
D-panthenol is the biologically active stereoisomer, while DL-panthenol contains both the D- and L-forms.
Ingredient Information
INCI: Panthenol
CAS: 16485-10-2; 81-13-0
EINECS/EC: 240-540-6; 201-327-3
Functions: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach
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