Rosa Canina (Dog Rose) Hip Seed Oil is a natural lipid high in gamma-linolenic acid that enhances skin's hydration, barrier repair and moisture-retention abilities. Traditional use: rosehip seed oil is used to treat dry, scaly, cracked or devitalised skin. It is also used to treat eczema, psoriasis, severely pigmented skin and scars, as well as in a supportive capacity to treat burns and contusions.

CAS: 84603-93-0

Function: Emollient/ skin conditioning.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Charcoal Powder is the dried, carbonaceous material obtained from the heating of organic substances. It is a high activity powder carbon for use in continuous and batch dosing water treatment systems. It is manufactured from specific grades of bituminous coal to produce a high quality powder carbon. It is proven in the removal of taste and odour from water by the adsorption of contaminants such as Methyl Isoborneol and Geosmin. It is particularly efficient in the removal of pesticides from water such as Atrazine and Simazine, plus other dissolved organic matter. It can be used in the treatment of drinking water, wastewater (both domestic and industrial) and where colour causing contaminants need to be removed from water. Wet carbon in enclosed filters can deplete oxygen. No adverse effect is expected when applied to the skin, but there is no data to evalaute any effects.

CAS: 8021-96-6

Function: Abrasive/ absorbant/ opacifying.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Phospholipids are a class of lipids and are a major component of all cell membranes as they can form lipid bilayers. Most phospholipids contain a diglyceride, a phosphate group, and a simple organic molecule such as choline. Phospholipids can also act as an emulsifier, enabling oils to dissolve in water.

CAS: 123465-35-0

Function: Skin conditioning.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Peptides are proteins whose main purpose is to form a protective film over the skin surface in order to reduce moisture loss. They are made from proteins and act as cell messengers which, in skin care, may stimulate healing and cell production. Claimed to boost collagen and reverse wrinkles, they have been difficult to formulate since they are broken down by natural enzymes before they can penetrate the skin. Some new synthetic peptides (such as hexapeptides, pentapeptides and polypeptides) do this more successfully and also carry cargo to the cells. It is hoped that ongoing technology will improve their regenerative and anti-ageing abilities, but currently they are used mostly for their water-binding properties.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

One of the water soluble antioxidants, that helps to mop up potentially damaging free radicals and protect the skin from environmental and solar damage.

‍

Function: Antioxidant Buffering Fragrance Skin Conditioning

CAS: 50-81-7,

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

‍

Source : Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Cranberry oil is made by cold pressing the seeds of the cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon) and is extremely rich in tocotrienols and are used as a highly nourishing and moisturizing ingredient – yet is light and non greasy. Cranberry oil is not only the highest unsaturated oil around, but is also high in antioxidants, and for this reason is used in anti-aging products, as antioxidants help to eliminate free radicals, which cause oxidative stress which leads to premature aging. Tocotrienols are one of the two groups of molecules belonging to the vitamin E family and they have an unsaturated isoprenoid or farnesyl side chain possessing three double bonds. These tocotrienols have been shown to be highly effective in protecting the skin from stress caused by sunlight. Cranberry oil if furthermore an excellent source of Omega-3, Omega-6 as well as Omega-9 fatty acids. Omega 3 fatty acids have been found to reduce the damage and aging caused by sunlight, and also improve elasticity and protect skin hydration. Omega 3 and 6 oils have also proven to be successful in the treatment of psoriasis and eczema.

CAS: 91770-88-6

Function: Skin conditioning.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Propolis cera is the waxy component of the resinous material found in beehives, is produced by bees and is used as a construction material for repairs. To protect the hive and its nutritious contents from attack by micro-organisms, propolis has anti-microbial properties. Propolis is comprised of a complex of chemicals (especially flavonoids), which play a role as antiviral and antibacterial agents. Analysis of this material shows it to be almost identical to the resin found on the leaf buds of the Birch (Betula verrucosa). It is already used in alternative medicine and has been examined for its antibiotic properties, but it is likely that even greater information on this material will appear in the future. No side effects have been reported for propolis. Propolis has been reported to be non-irritating and safe for topical use.

CAS: 85665-41-4

Function: Antiseborrhoeic/ moisturising/ smoothing.

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Calendula is good for the treatment of wounds because of its antiseptic action; a local remedy assisting local action and preventing suppuration. Reduces swelling of wasp or bee stings and helps to relieve the pain. Lotion is useful for sprains and bruises. The water is useful for sore and inflamed eyes.Calendula Oil CLR contains the lipophilic ingredients and aromas of calendula flowers in a soy oil medium. It protects dry, scaly, and stressed skin and is thus suitable for the protective care of sensitive skin, e.g., babies‘ skin.

In the 16th century, marigold was a common garden plant valued by herbalists for comforting the heart and soothing the spirit. The dried flowers went into the making of broths and teas, and were used to color cheese. It was known to the Romans, Greeks, ancient Egyptians, Arabs and Hindus. The generic name derives from the Latin calends  meaning “throughout the months,” a reference to the lengthy flowering season of the marigold. It was used in wedding bouquets because it represents constant love in flower symbolism.

CAS: 84776-23-8

Function: Emollient.

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Oatmeal or oatbran has been valued for its soothing and absorbent properties for hundreds of years, and these benefits also make it ideal for products designed for redness-prone, sensitive or irritated skins, as well as those suffering from allergies, insect bites, psoriasis and sunburn. The ingredient also absorbs excess oil, reduces redness and heals spots, whilst providing thickening benefits to formulations, and it even provides a tautening effect on loose, sagging skin. It is therefore used in body care, face masks, hand creams, moisturisers, soaps and suncare.

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Cucumis Sativus (Cucmber) Fruit has been popular for its cooling, soothing properties since Cleopatra was a girl, and it is still contained in a wide variety of anti-inflammatory, calming, hydrating and refreshing products. These include aftersuns, body lotions, eye pads, skin fresheners and moisturisers, as well as treatments for oily skin and tightening agents for sagging or stressed skin. The literature contains a wealth of information on the use of cucumber for the care of the skin. Among many of the virtues are that it is cooling to delicate and inflamed skin, soothing, smoothing and refreshing. In China, the name for this plant is Hua Gua, where it is also known as “Grandmother’s Younger Face Slave”. This is a foodstuff and unlikely to cause any reaction on the skin.

CAS: 8024-36-0

Function: Emollient/skin conditioning

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Avocado or Alligator Pear is rich in selenium, vitamin E and a host of other nutrients that are beneficial to the skin. The presence of materials called triglycerides and natural sterols coupled with the excellent skin penetrating properties of this oil, make it an ideal choice for skin that is looking dull and lifeless. It has been used for the treatment of a number chronic skin conditions with proven success. .

A light, fast penetrating oil that was reported to be absorbed faster by the skin than corn, soybean, almond and olive oils. ß-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmsterol, brassicasterol, delta5-Avenastenol, tocopherols and other unidentified sterols.

Skin and eye test tolerance are excellent. Application of avocado oil to the skin caused no irritation in humans, but two cases of possible sensitization have been reported. Skin irritation and mild eye effects were seen in rabbits treated with certain avocado oils. Repeated oral administration produced some liver effects in rats. The safety of Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil was safe for use as used in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2001, as part of the scheduled re-evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

CAS: 8024-32-6

Function: Emollient.

Source Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Although the soft interior stem can be used as a source for heart of palm, acai is better known for its fruit, which tastes like a blend of berry and chocolate. The acai fruit is round, reddish-purple, and one to two cm in diameter, with the seeds constituting about 80% of the fruit. The acai berry is a relative of the blueberry, cranberry, and other dark purple fruits. A variety of acai berry products are available for consumers, including juices, powders, tablets, and capsules. In recent times, research on acai fruit has been centered on its potential antioxidant properties. Acai fruit has also shown antiproliferative, and anti-inflammatory activity in vitro; possibly related to its antioxidant content. Preliminary in vivo experimentation has also indicated that acai fruit pulp may be a useful alternative oral contrast agent for magnetic resonance imaging (MRI). Currently, evidence in support the use of acai in human is lacking for any indication.

CAS: 861902-11-6

Function: Skin conditioning agent - occlusive.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil has been reported as beneficial for the treatment of burns, wounds, acne, insect bites, wound healing, and painful bruises. Other references recommend the oil for the treatment of fatigue, tired feet, rheumatism, sores, varicose veins and ulcers. The essential oil has been used for the improvement of sleep, by placing a few drops of the oil onto the pillow. The oil has also been used to calm a tense headache and may, in some cases, be useful in cases of migraine.

Lavender oil applied to human and animal skin produced little or no irritation, but it has caused sensitization, photosensitization and pigmentation in humans. In laboratory animals it was of low acute oral and dermal toxicity and low to moderate injection toxicity. Its principal effect following administration by oral, injection or inhalation routes to rodents, was sedation. It was rapidly absorbed through intact human skin.

CAS: 8000-28-0

Function: Fragrance ingredient/tonic/ refreshing/ cleansing/ deodorant/ masking.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Ginseng is an excellent tonic, though it cannot be claimed to cure any specific ailment. Ginseng is used as a general tonic to treat tiredness, overexertion, neurasthenia, hypotension, general and nervous weakness, particularly in old age; mild depression.

Panax is derived from the Greek word panakos, “a panacea,” in reference to the miraculous virtues ascribed to it by the Chinese who consider it a Sovereign remedy in almost all diseases. It was formerly supposed to be confined to Chinese Tartary, but now is known to also be a native of North America, from when Sarrasin transmitted specimens to Paris in 1704.

CAS: 84650-12-4

Function: Emollient/ hair conditioning/ skin protecting/ tonic.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Curcumin is extracted from the dried root of the turmeric rhizome Curcuma longa. The process of extraction requires the raw material to be ground into powder, and washed with a suitable solvent that selectively extracts coloring matter. This process after distillation of the solvent yields an oleoresin with coloring matter content in the region of 25–35% along with volatile oils and other resinous extractives. The oleoresin so obtained is subjected to further washes using selective solvents that can extract the curcumin pigment from the oleoresin. This process yields a powdered, purified food color, known as curcumin powder, with more than 90% coloring matter content and very little volatile oil and other dry matter of natural origin. The characteristic yellow color of turmeric is due to the curcuminoids, first isolated by Vogel in 1842.

Curcumin provides a water-soluble orange-yellow color. The rhizome of Curcuma longa has been used as a medicine, spice and coloring agent for thousands of years. The Negritoes of the Philippines utilize the fresh rhizome to treat recent wounds, bumps, bruises and leech bites. Mixed with gingelly oil (a locally produced oil), it is applied to the body to prevent further skin eruptions. Among the dark races of India, turmeric has been used since time immemorial to treat skin problems. Both the Ayurvedic and the Unani practitioners have used a paste of powdered turmeric or its fresh juice made into a paste or a decoction of the whole plant as a local application in the treatment of leprosy and cobra bites. It is especially useful for indolent ulcers on the surface of the skin and gangrene in the flesh. A paste made from the powdered rhizomes along with caustic lime forms a soothing remedy for inflamed joints. Turmeric is also used as an external application of “rouge” and is used by some women in India to suppress the unwelcome growth of facial hairs and upper lip moustaches.  In Northern India, the rhizome is used by many natives for treating cuts, burns and scalds.  The natives of Samoa use powdered rhizome to sprinkle on newborn infants to help heal a recently cut umbilical cord, to prevent nappy rash from occurring, and to keep the skin continually soft and resilient. The powder is also used as a paste or poultice to treat skin ulcers and to help heal extensive skin eruptions. In parts of Africa, turmeric has been successfully tested for healing rashes due to allergies and psoriasis inflammation, and itching accompanying arthritis.

It is a natural extract obtained by solvent extraction from the dried rhizomes of turmeric (used in Indian cuisine as a flavoring agent). Curcumin may be used to compensate for fading of natural coloring in pre-packed foods. Recognized as an anticarcinogenic agent during laboratory tests. It is widely used in traditional Indian medicine to cure biliary disorders, anorexia, cough, diabetic wounds, hepatic disorders, rheumatism and sinusitis. Turmeric paste in slaked lime is a popular home remedy for the treatment of inflammation and wounds. Curcumin has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antifungal actions. Studies have shown that curcumin is not toxic to humans. Curcumin exerts anti-inflammatory activity by inhibition of a number of different molecules that play an important role in inflammation.

CAS: 458-37-7

Function: Antioxidant.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

There could be no finer moisturiser than honey and throughout history one can find numerous references to the skin benefits that honey can bring. The soothing, emollient and skin healing benefits of honey are being examined clinically in a number of leading hospitals throughout the world for wound healing and the treatment of burns.

Honey is good for skin care because it attracts and maintains moisture and acts like a moisturizer. Honey was used to treat boils, wounds, ulcers and burns. Locally it makes an ointment for sores, wounds and ulcers. It reduces irritation and is good to apply to chapped hands. It will afford relief for frostbite and will help to reduce swellings. Sword cuts were treated and dressed with honey and cobwebs. Its use dates back to ancient times, with Egyptian medical texts (circa 2600 and 2200 B.C.) mentioning honey in at least 900 remedies. Almost all early cultures universally hailed honey for its sweetening and nutritive qualities, as well as its topical healing properties for sores, wounds and skin ulcers. During wartime it was used on wounds as an antiseptic by the ancient Egyptians, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Chinese and even by the Germans as late as World War I.

Honey has long been consumed in foods and as an ingredient of food and beverages. The primary sugars of honey are also found as components of food and are considered to be Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In addition to water and naturally occurring sugars, Honey contains varying levels of Beeswax. The safety of Beeswax and other waxes has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data concluded that Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, and Japan Wax were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2003, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Beeswax and plant waxes and reaffirmed the above conclusion. This is a foodstuff and unlikely to cause any reaction on the skin.

CAS: 8028-66-8

Function: Emollient/ humectant/ moisturising.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Tea tree oil: there has been extensive scientific study on its benefits, with promise of more evidence of its efficacy still to be published. Current data supports its use for antibacterial and antiseptic applications, treatment of acne, insect repellancy, antidandruff preparations and for the treatment of a wide range of skin complications.

First described in detail by members of the crew of Captain James Cook's expeditions in late 1700s, the plant gained widespread fame because of claims of its ability to treat skin ailments, cuts and burns. Extracts of the plant were used as topical antiseptics during World War II until superseded by more effective antimicrobial agents. The oil is more commonly used than the extract and has no anticipated or reported adverse effects when applied topically.

CAS: 85085-48-9

Function: Skin conditioning/Antimicrobial

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (argan oil) is the fixed oil expressed from the kernels of the African tree (Morroco) Argania spinosa. Argan oil is widely used in the cosmetic industry within anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and make-up products. Argan oil originates from Morocco. Argan oil helps in reducing the wrinkles and softening the skin. Argan oil is also known to protect the hydration of the skin and there are no reported adverse effects or expected adverse effects from the topical application of this oil.

Rich in natural sterols, this oil from Morocco is used by the local women to keep their skin soft, smooth and protected. Argan oil and preparations including argan oil have been used in traditional Moroccan medicine for centuries to cure skin diseases.

CAS: 223747-87-3

Function: Emollient/ skin conditioning.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is an enigma, since if one looks at the chemical structure, one would expect it to be a wax. Nature’s only liquid wax has some extraordinary properties, since it has the protective power of a wax but with the light emollient softness of oil. It is reported in the literature to alleviate minor skin irritations and to be effective in the treatment of dry and sore skin. The oil also has extensive use in the care of the hair. Jojoba is a good solvent for sebum and is used to control and complement this skin’s natural moisturiser. The safety of Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Isomerized Jojoba Oil, Jojoba Alcohol and Synthetic Jojoba Oil has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and based on the available information concluded that Jojoba Oil and the related ingredients were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients.

Indians and Mexicans have for a long time used jojoba oil as a hair conditioner and restorer. There is a substantial body of anecdotal evidence that suggests that the wax is beneficial in alleviating minor skin irritations. Jojoba oil has been shown to significantly soften the skin as measured by viscoelastic dynamometry. Jojoba oil may be effective in alleviating the symptoms of psoriasis and in controlling acne outbreaks. It has been used medicinally for the treatment of burns and sores etc. Topical irritations such as sunburn and chapped skin appear to respond to topical jojoba therapy. A substantial body of anecdotal evidence suggests that the wax is beneficial in alleviating minor skin irritations. It is a liquid wax that acts as a skin protectant and emollient.

Function: Emollient

CAS: 61789-91-1

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

This butter is very similar in benefits to cocoa butter, but does not have the same chocolate smell associated with it. It has been studied in the treatment of burns, dermatitis, wounds, and inflammatory skin conditions. It is a rich skin emollient, which is used traditionally (by the tribes who collect and prepare it) to accelerate wound healing. The presence of a small amount of a component called allantoin (which is a well-proven healing agent) might justify this effect. The butter melts at body temperature and is quickly absorbed by the skin to leave it soft and supple.

Function: Emollient

CAS: 91080-23-8

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Aloe vera is of the most exciting ingredients for the care and treatment of the skin. The inner (parynchemal) gel is extracted by carefully filleting it from the leaf. The soothing, cooling and healing effects of the gel are well documented and there is extensive scientific proof to demonstrate that the gel has great benefit in both protecting and repairing the skin from radiation damage (solar and thermal), improving wound healing and restoring normal skin function.

Function: Emollient

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Whey is the water dispersable part of milk that is separated from the curd in the manufacture of cheese. Whey or milk plasma is the liquid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained. It is a by-product of the manufacture of cheese or casein and has several commercial uses. Sweet whey is manufactured during the making of rennet types of hard cheese like cheddar or Swiss cheese. Acid whey (also known as "sour whey") is obtained during the making of acid types of cheese such as cottage cheese. Because whey contains lactose, it should be avoided by those who are lactose intolerant. Dried whey, a very common food additive, contains more than 70% lactose. Liquid whey contains lactose, vitamins, protein, and minerals, along with traces of fat. People with an intolerance to milk products should be warned on the label. In the general population no adverse effects are exprected or reported.

Function: Skin conditioning.

CAS: 92129-90-3

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Lactose is a disaccharide sugar that is found most notably in milk and is formed from galactose and glucose. Lactose makes up around 2-8% of milk (by weight), although the amount varies among species and individuals. It is extracted from sweet or sour whey. The name comes from lac, the Latin word for milk, plus the -ose ending used to name sugars. It has a formula of C12H22O11. It is not expected to show any adverse effects when applied to the skin at the levels used in cosmetic products.

Function: Humectant/ skin conditioning.

CAS: 63-42-3

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Cedrus atlantica. Cedarwood (Atlas Cedar). Country: France. Part used: wood. Traditional use: Good for stress related disorders. Said to soothe acne, eczema, arthritis and rheumatism. One of the most ancient oil traditionally used as a fixative in the perfumery industry. . Soothing woody aroma—helpful for oily skin and itchy scalp. Add to a fragrance jar in a wardrobe to repel moths. A very calming oil for respiratory problems. The oil is widely used for insect repellent activities and Turkish carpet shops are walled with cedarwood boards to deter the moths.

Function: Fragrance ingredient.

CAS: 8000-27-9

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

Salicylic acid occurs naturally in plants such as wintergreen leaves, willow bark and sweet birch bark, although it can also be manufactured in the laboratory. It is similar to the compound used in the manufacture of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), and it has anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties so it acts as a preservative in product formulations. It is also a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), making it gentler and less irritating than AHAs. In fact, its keratolytic (keratin-dissolving) properties have been used by dermatologists for decades. This mild peeling effect helps reduce blocked pores whilst also smoothing the look and feel of the skin, so it is used in acne treatments, anti-ageing products, anti-dandruff care, bath and body care, and depilatory creams.

The name salicylic acid (2-Hydroxybenzoic acid) is derived from the Latin salix meaning “willow,” from the bark of which it can be obtained. It is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and is probably best known for its use in anti-acne treatments. Salicylic acid was also isolated from the herb meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria, Syn. Spiraea ulmaria). Salicylic acid is known for its ability to ease aches and pains and reduce fevers. These medicinal properties, particularly fever relief, have been known since ancient times, and it was used as an anti-inflammatory drug.

Salicylic acid is a skin exfoliant and has been used in conjunction with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or alone for this purpose. It is a key ingredient for the treatment of acne, psoriasis, calluses, corns and warts. It works as a keratolytic by increasing the rate of skin cell turnover causing the cells of the epidermis to shed more readily, this helps prevent pores from clogging and allows for new cell growth. It has also been used in shampoos for the treatment of dandruff and has some skin-whitening properties. Excessive use can cause photosensitivity.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has reviewed the safety of Salicylic Acid and permits its use as indirect food additives. Salicylic Acid is approved for use in Over-the-Counter (OTC) drug products. Salicylic acid is widely used as an FDA approved safe and effective acne drug product. It is also approved for use in OTC drugs for corn, callus and wart removal, as well as in antidandruff OTC drug products. The safety of Salicylic Acid and its salts and esters has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated scientific data and concluded that Salicylic Acid was safe as used when formulated to avoid skin irritation and when formulated to avoid increasing the skin's sun sensitivity, or, when increased sun sensitivity would be expected, directions for use include the daily use of sun protection.

Function: Antidandruff/ hair conditioning/ keratolytic/ masking/ preservative/ skin conditioning.

CAS: 69-72-7

‍

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

‍

The shelf life is the period during which the manufacturer has determined a cosmetic or personal care product to be best suited for use.

No regulations or requirements under current U.S. law require manufacturers to print specific expiration dates on the labels of cosmetics and personal care products. However, they are required to determine shelf life as part of their responsibility to substantiate safety.

In Europe, cosmetics products with a lifespan longer than 30 months must show a “period-after-opening” (PAO) time. PAO is the time, recorded in months, when the product will remain in good condition after the consumer has used it for the first time. A symbol of an open cream jar is usually used instead of words with the PAO alongside or inside the symbol. Although this symbol can be found on some U.S. cosmetics and personal care products, it is not required.

Any cosmetic or personal care product in Europe with a lifespan of fewer than 30 months must show a “best-before-the-end-of” (BBE) date. The lifespan is usually shown using the “egg timer” symbol followed by the date or with words abbreviated as BBE or Exp, followed by the date. Very few products are labeled with BBE dates because most are known to last more than 30 months.

Some products do not require any of these because the product will not deteriorate during normal use. Examples are aerosols, which are effectively sealed; perfumes with high alcohol content; or single-use packs.

Consumers should be aware that expiration dates are “rules of thumb.” Like food, product quality may decline before the expiration date without proper storage. Products that have been improperly stored (e.g., exposed to high temperatures or sunlight or opened and examined by consumers before final sale) may deteriorate substantially before the shelf life or expiration date.

Source: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/

What is INCI?

INCI names (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) are systematic names internationally recognized to identify cosmetic ingredients. They are developed by the International Nomenclature Committee (INC) and published by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, available electronically as wINCI.

Oversight for the INCI program is provided by PCPC as part of its mission to support the identification of the composition of personal care products, and publication of this information in a worldwide science-based Dictionary. PCPC is committed to ensuring that the Dictionary provides the world community with accurate, transparent, and harmonized nomenclature. By working closely with its international sister trade associations, and with other organizations around the world, PCPC strives to develop INCI names that accommodate differing labeling approaches described in national laws and regulations.

Why INCI?

There are many benefits to a uniform system of labeling names for cosmetic ingredients. Dermatologists and others in the medical community are ensured an orderly dissemination of scientific information, which helps to identify agents responsible for adverse reactions. Scientists are ensured that information from scientific and other technical publications will be referenced by a uniform name; and that multiple names for the same material will not lead to confusion, misidentification, or the loss of essential information. It also enables the cosmetic industry to track the safety and the regulatory status of ingredients efficiently on a global basis, enhancing its ability to market safe products in compliance with various national regulations. And finally, transparency is provided to consumers as ingredients are identified by a single labeling name regardless of the national origin of the product.

What INCI is not?

The designation of an INCI name for a cosmetic ingredient is an essential part of ingredient identification; however, just because an ingredient has an INCI name does not mean that the ingredient has been approved for cosmetics. The assignment of an INCI name to an ingredient also does not imply that the ingredient is safe, or that its use in a cosmetic product complies with the laws and regulations of the United States or other global regions. The safety and fitness of use for an ingredient, along with regulatory considerations, is carefully evaluated by the manufacturer as part of the development process before the product is marketed.

Source: https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/

European List of Notified Chemical Substances, that is, the list of substances marketed as of 18 September 1981 and notified under Directive 67/548/EEC. The latest edition of the ELINCS List can be consulted from https://op.europa.eu/en/publication-detail/-/publication/
c33bef79-ce30-43ab-accd-d596341cddff.

Source: https://ec.europa.eu/

‍