Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder. The kernels from apricots are dried and ground to produce a smooth, soft but gently persuasive powder that can be used to gently slough away dead skin cells. The passage of skin cells from the living epidermis to the top layer of dead stratum corneum is a natural process, and the skin naturally loses millions of dead skin cells each day (they are the major component of dust in the bedroom!). However, this uppermost layer of the skin is often quite coarse and flaky and can spoil the appearance of the complexion, The use of a gentle exfoliant will restore smoothness and softness to the skin, without causing any damage to underlying tissue. The safety of Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated scientific data and concluded that Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal were safe for topical application to humans in the present practices of use and concentration. In 2002, as part of the scheduled re-evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Pyrus Malus Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of thee Apple, Pyrus malus L., Rosaceae. Traditional use: They are a good first aid. Use them raw as a poultice, or bake them and extract the pulp. Use this pulp on the eyes to relieve any kind of strain or inflammation. Over-ripe apples are used in some parts of England to relieve rheumatic and weak eyes. Apple can be used as a poultice for strains. Apple cider vinegar is an excellent cosmetic aid and can be mixed with rosewater for a daily restorative face splash. Pyrus malus is the scientific name for the apple. Apple-derived ingredients (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Flower Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Water, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Juice, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Oil, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pectin Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Peel Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Peel Powder, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Peel Wax, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Root Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Oil, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Stem Extract) are obtained from the fruit, leaf, stem, root or flower of the plant Pyrus malus. In cosmetics and personal care products, the ingredients derived from Pyrus malus are used in the formulation of a wide variety of products including hair conditioners, hand and body lotions, and shampoos. Apples, the fruit of the plant from which these ingredients are derived, are listed by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) among the 20 most commonly consumed fruits. The FDA includes pectin, including pectin derived from apples, on its list of substances considered Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) as direct food substances. Botanical and botanically derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well-established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics.Apple seed oil is extracted from the seed Kernels of apple, by the cold press and filteration process. It is most stable natural oil and it is found to be good source of oleic acid and linoleic acid. Cold pressed oil are extracted without the use of any kind of solvents. Apple seeds oil is rich in essential fatty acids, (between 85 to 88%) & amino acids compostion of lipids & protein components. Typically apple seed oil contains high levels of linoleic acid (60%) with the other dominant fatty acids being oleic (27.50), palmitic (7.40) and stearic acids,(2%).

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Resveratrol  is a phytoalexin (trans-3,5,4’-trihydroxystilbene), an antioxidant polyphenol from red wine and recent evidence has supported the assumption that is largely responsible for red wine’s protective effects on blood vessels, by inhibiting lipid peroxidation of low density lipoprotein (LDL). It is found in the skin of red grapes, and is synthesized by the plant in response to attack by pathogens such as bacteria or fungi (especially by the Botrytis fungus). It has been the subject of intense interest in recent years due to a range of unique antiaging properties. The role of resveratrol in prevention of photoaging was reviewed and compared with other antioxidants used in skin care products. It has been clinically proven to have a two-step anti wrinkle activity and also has antiaging activity based on Sirtuin-1 activation.

Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck

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Retinol is the primary naturally occurring form of vitamin A. It is a pale yellow crystalline material or a thick liquid. Retinyl Palmitate is a yellow to yellow-red solid or oily substance. Retinyl Palmitate is the ester of Retinol and palmitic acid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate are used primarily in the formulation of hair, facial make-up and skin care products. Internally it counteracts night blindness, weak eyesight and in the treatment of many eye disorders. It permits the formation of visual purple in the eye. Helps in the removal of age spots.Promotes healthy skin, hair, teeth and gums. Helps treat acne, impetigo, boils.

Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck

Pomegranate is a shrub or a small tree reaching a height of 5 to 8 m. It is mainly cultivated for its delicious fruit and also as a garden plant. In appearance, the pomegranate fruit is reminiscent of an apple. Its interior, however, resembles a spongy structure of cavities separated by white membranes containing numerous seeds. In terms of the latter, the pomegranate has been traditionally worshipped as a symbol of fertility and wealth. The tree originates from Iran, from where it has spread to the Mediterranean, Africa, Southeast Asia, Australia and America. Botanical characteristics: phyllotaxis oppositeleaved, leaves shiny, elliptic-lanceolate, 3 to 7 cm long, 2 cm wide; flowers with 5 to 8 red petals, calyx red, tubular; fruits yellowish red, 5 to 12 cm in diameter, exocarp leathery, mesocarp fleshy; seeds 200 to 1,400, surrounded by a dark-red juicy aril.

Pomegranate seeds contain approximately 20% oil. The triglyceride composition of pomegranate oil is completely unique in the plant world. It is mainly represented by punicic acid, a very rare omega-5 fatty acid that belongs to the group of conjugated linolenic acids. Another important feature of pomegranate oil is the presence of two estrogen hormones, 17α-estradiol and estrone. Also exceptionally high is its content of vitamin E.

Pomegranate oil is oxidatively very unstable. It is light yellow or golden yellow, with a characteristic sour-oily odour, and is considerably more viscous than a typical vegetable oil. In terms of its unique chemical composition, pomegranate oil has no suitable substitute among other vegetable oils.

Mechanism of action and use
Interest in pomegranate oil as a dermatological and cosmetically active ingredient has only recently evolved. In contrast to most vegetable butters and oils, it has been studied intensively over the last decade. Laboratory research on skin cell and tissue cultures, both animal and human, has shown its anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, and photoprotective effects. It has been demonstrated that pomegranate oil improves the regeneration of injured skin, as it stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and the repair of the dermis. It also decreases damaging effects caused by ultraviolet radiation. Pomegranate oil is therefore considered the best choice in the care of demanding mature and stressed skin. It is also recommended in the care of dry and allergy-prone skin, as well as burnt skin and in the care of the skin after sun exposure. Due to its high oxidative instability, pure pomegranate oil should be used in combination with more stable oils or antioxidants.

Source: Modern Cosmetics - Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač

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Propanediol is a skin-friendly, natural and petroleum-free glycol alternative for the cosmetics and personal care market. It is available as an approved by Ecocert™ and certified by the Natural Products Association (NPA), Zemea® is a 100% natural ingredient.It is the perfect glycol alternative for formulations where non-petroleum based ingredients are desired. Benefits include its high purity, lack of skin irritation or sensitization, improved humectancy, excellent aesthetics and environmentally sustainable nature. It is currently being used in many major hair and skin care brands around the world. Zemea® propanediol can be used to replace glycols such as propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), butylene glycol (1,3-/1,4-butanediol) or glycerin. Depending on your formulation needs, it can function as: Emollient, Humectant, Solvent, Hand-feel Modifier, Viscosity Enhancer, Botanical Extraction and Dilution, as a carrier for active ingredients, Ingredient for natural esters and ethers, Ingredient in natural preservative systems.  

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Scope is the sum of the products, services, and results to be provided as a project. As scope is defined, it creates the need for more requirements identification. Therefore, like requirements, scope can be well defined up front, it can evolve over time, or it can be discovered.

The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition

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The person assigned by the performing organization to lead the project team that is responsible for achieving the project objectives. Project managers perform a variety of functions, such as facilitating the project team work to achieve the outcomes and managing the processes to deliver intended outcomes.

People drive project delivery. They do so by fulfilling functions necessary for the project to run effectively and efficiently. Functions related to the project can be fulfilled by one person, by a group of people, or combined into defined roles. Coordinating a collective work effort is extremely important to the success of any project. There are different types of coordination suitable for different contexts. Some projects benefit from decentralized coordination in which project team members self-organize and self-manage. Other projects benefit from centralized coordination with the leadership and guidance of a designated project manager or similar role. Some projects with centralized coordination can also benefit from including self-organized project teams for portions of the work. Regardless of how coordination takes place, supportive leadership models and meaningful, continuous engagements between project teams and other stakeholders underpin successful outcomes.

Regardless of how projects are coordinated, the collective effort of the project team delivers the outcomes, benefits, and value. The project team may be supported by additional functions depending on the deliverables, industry, organization, and other variables.

The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition

Project management is the application of knowledge, skills, tools, and techniques to project activities to meet project requirements. Project management refers to guiding the project work to deliver the intended outcomes. Project teams can achieve the outcomes using a broad range of approaches (e.g., predictive, hybrid, and adaptive).

The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition

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Almond is a shrub or more typically a tree that grows 4 to 12 m in height. It originates in the regions from India to Asia Minor. It was introduced to the Mediterranean in the times of antiquity and later to North America. Both regions are the leading producers of almond today. Sweet almond bears edible fruit with a sweetish taste, while the fruit of bitter almond is bitter.
Botanical characteristics: bark reddish; leaves dark green, lanceolate, acuminate; flowers with 5 petals, 3 to 5 cm in diameter, pink in bitter almond, white in sweet almond; fruits botanically termed drupes, oblong, up to 6 cm long, exocarp greyish green, pubescent, endocarp hard, with 1 seed.

Almond seeds contain approximately 50% oil, which is among the richest sources of oleic acid in triglycerides. Also considerably high is its content of linoleic acid, while saturated palmitic and stearic acids are present in minor amounts. Almond oil is oxidatively unstable. It has a light-yellow colour and a weak, sweetish-nutty odour. It is cold-pressed from bitter as well as sweet almond.

Source: Modern Cosmetics - Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač

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A preservative is any substance used to kill or prevent the growth of microorganisms which, by their growth, will spoil or contaminate a raw material or product.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

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Polymeric materials can interact both with protein of the skin surface and with skin lipids. Parameters influencing the interaction between skin surface and the polymers are as follows:

1. The positive charge density: the more cationic the character of the polymer, the better the polymer interaction with negatively charged skin surface.
2. The hydrophobicity of polymer: grafting of hydrophobic moieties on the polymer backbone favor van der Waals interactions with hydrophobic areas of the keratin.
3. The molecular weight of the polymer: the higher the polymer size, the more its substantivity to the skin (film-forming properties). However, very low–molecular weight polymers can easily penetrate the skin surface chinks and as such adsorb into the superficial stratum disjonctum.
4. The nature of surfactants neighboring the polymer in the finished product: the polymer can interact with surfactants either through their charges or through hydrophobic interactions; also, competition between polymer and surfactants for skin anchoring sites can occur. In both cases, deposition and adsorption of polymer onto the skin surface is weakened.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Piper longum fruit extract. The fruit contains 1% volatile oil, resin, alkaloids Piperin and piperlonguminine, a waxy alkaloid N-isobutyl deca-trans-2-trans-4-dienamide and a terpenoid substance. The roots have piperine, periongumine or piplartin, dihydro-stigmasterol, which have been the reason that it is popularly used in traditional practice to promote respiratory health. In a few weeks-clinical study with 20 children Piper longum extract significantly benefited respiratory function. It has been known to effectively reduce passive cutaneous anaphylaxis in rats and proteacted guinea pigs against antigen induced bronchospasm. (Dahanukar.S et.al.Indian Drugs 19:271(1982). Major chemical constituents: Essential oil. Mono and sesquiterpenes, caryophyllene (mainly), Piperine, Piperlongumine, Piperlonguminine, Pipernonaline, Piperundecalidine, Pipercide, Sesamin, B- sitosterol four aristolactams (cepharanone B. aristolactum All. Piperlactum A and  piperolactam B) five 4-5 dioxoaporphines etc. The essential oil of the fruit P. longum is a complex mixture, the three major components of which are (excluding the volatile piperine) caryophyllene and pentadecane (both about 17.8%) and bisaboline (11%). Others include thujine, terpinoline, zingiberine, pcymene, p-methoxy acetophenone and dihydrocarveol. Long pepper contains less essential oil than its relatives (about 1%), which consists of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and ethers (bisabolene, β-caryophyllene, β-caryophyllene oxide, each 10 to 20%; α-zingiberene, 5%), and saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons such as 18% pentadecane, 7% tridecane, 6% heptadecane. The essential oil of the fruits showed fungicidal activity of P. longum L. The fruit-derived materials was tested towards six phytopathogenic fungi, Pyricularia oryzae, Rhizoctonia solani, Botrytis cineria, Phytophthora infestans, Puccinia recondita, and Erysiphe graminis using a whole plant in vivo method 42-44. A piperidine alkaloid, pipernonaline, was isolated from the hexane fraction of P.longum showed a potent fungicidal activity against P. recondita with 91% and 80% control values at the concentration of 0.5 and 0.25 mg ml−1.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

PPS stands for Pre Production Sample. These samples are made to test your packaging's style, functionality, quality during development/prototyping process, before the mass production.

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PS is used in packaging for make-up, lipstick, compact powder, blush, eyeshadow and covers.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

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PP is a translucent plastic resin used in bottles for shampoo, conditioner, jars for creams and products containing a high concentration of vegetable or mineral oil such as bath and sun tanning oils. It has lower porosity than PE, thus reducing the potential for migration of product components through the packaging.
PP is used to produce the majority of lids for containers, which can be flip top, top disc or a blind cover. The discs that are placed under the cover of a cream so that the product has no direct contact with the lid are also generally composed of PP.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

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PVC offers transparency, but is brittle and the packaging is likely to crack or break if dropped. PVC has little memory and can be coloured with pigments. It is most commonly used in bottles of shampoo, conditioner, lotions, tubes of mascara and lip gloss.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

PET is one of the most widely used resins because of its transparency, flexibility and memory (i.e. the ability to return to its original shape following deformation), and good compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients.

The good durability of PET is ideal for transparent bottles of shampoos and conditioners that may often slip from the hands and fall to the ground. The bottle will dent, without cracking, unlike other transparent resins. With the addition of pigments, PET bottles or pots become coloured, transparent or translucent. They can also be completely white by the addition of titanium dioxide or pearlescent by adding mica-based pearl luster pigments such as Iriodin®. The addition of sunscreen to the resin confers protection from light to the inner product without the loss of packaging transparency.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

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Panthenol is the biologically active alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid, a vitamin of the B-complex group, which is a normal constituent of skin and hair. Pantothenic acid, also called Vitamin B5, carries out its function in the body as an element of co-enzyme A, a molecule composed of cysteamine, ATP, and pantothenic acid. This substance is present in all living cells and serves a vital role in the metabolism of a variety of enzyme-catalyzed reactions by which energy is released from carbohydrates, fats, and proteins.

Skin manifestations of pantothenic acid deficiency are well known, and include cornification, depigmentation, and desquamation. Pantothenic acid is an unstable substance. In topical preparations such as skincare, haircare, nailcare, and derma products, pantothenic acid is used in the alcohol form, called panthenol. Its use is based on its dual role as a vitamin precursor and as an ingredient with ideal cosmetic properties. When topically applied, panthenol is absorbed by the skin and can be bioconverted into pantothenic acid. As such it exerts all functions of
vitamin B₅.

Because it has a distinct humectant character, panthenol acts as a skin moisturizer. This hygroscopic substance not only provides water to the skin surface but it also penetrates deep into the epidermis and brings water to, and retains water in, the inside of the skin. Panthenol imparts a smooth, light feel to the skin without any greasiness or stickiness. Because it is well tolerated by the skin, it is an ideal and widely used ingredient in baby care products as well as in products for sensitive skin.
Topically applied panthenol stimulates epithelization as was shown by Weiser and Erlemann. Superficial wounds treated with creams containing 5% panthenol reduced the healing time by 30% compared with placebo. Favorable effects were also reported in many kinds of skin disorders accompanied by inflammatory reactions such as burns, nipple fissures, eczemas, and many others. Another application field of panthenol is, therefore, derma products for wound healing and for soothing of inflammatory disorders where it is usually incorporated in concentrations of 5%. The concentrations in cosmetics vary mainly from 0.3 to 2%.

The use of panthenol in haircare products goes back to the early 1960s, when inflammatory reactions on the scalp were treated with panthenol-containing creams. Panthenol not only showed a soothing effect but also had beneficial effects on the hair. Pantothenic acid is a natural constituent of human hair. Stuettgen applied tritium-labeled panthenol intracutaneously by injection and could show a transport of radioactive material into the hair. Stangl observed a significant increase of pantothenic
acid concentration in the hair after topical application of panthenol over longer periods.

Panthenol acts as a humectant for hair. It builds up a thin moisture film on the surface of the hair and gives hair shine without making it greasy. Panthenol also penetrates
into the hair cuticle and brings moisture to the cortex. This imparts good pliability and manageability properties to the hair, and improves its resistance to mechanical stress such as combing, brushing, and heat blowdrying.

Panthenol can also contribute to give hair more body. A thickening of the hair after 2 minutes exposure to a 2% water solution of panthenol was shown by means of scanning electron microscopy.

The main commercial forms are d-panthenol, dl-panthenol, and ethyl panthenol. All these forms are soluble in e.g., water, ethanol, and propylene glycol, but insoluble in fats and oils. Ethyl panthenol is an ether and available either as d-form or a racemic mixture of d- and l-form. Biological activity has only the d-form, because only d-pantothenic acid is incorporated into coenzyme A.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Piper Longum Fruit Extract is the extract of the fruit of the Long Pepper, Piper longum L., Piperaceae. The fruit contains 1% volatile oil, resin, alkaloids Piperin and piperlonguminine, a waxy alkaloid N-isobutyl deca-trans-2-trans-4-dienamide and a terpenoid substance. The roots have piperine, periongumine or piplartin, dihydro-stigmasterol, which have been the reason that it is popularly used in traditional practice to promote respiratory health. In a few weeks-clinical study with 20 children Piper longum extract significantly benefited respiratory function. It has been known to effectively reduce passive cutaneous anaphylaxis in rats and proteacted guinea pigs against antigen induced bronchospasm. (Dahanukar.S et.al.Indian Drugs 19:271(1982). Major chemical constituents: Essential oil. Mono and sesquiterpenes, caryophyllene (mainly), Piperine, Piperlongumine, Piperlonguminine, Pipernonaline, Piperundecalidine, Pipercide, Sesamin, B- sitosterol four aristolactams (cepharanone B. aristolactum All. Piperlactum A and  piperolactam B) five 4-5 dioxoaporphines etc. The essential oil of the fruit P. longum is a complex mixture, the three major components of which are (excluding the volatile piperine) caryophyllene and pentadecane (both about 17.8%) and bisaboline (11%). Others include thujine, terpinoline, zingiberine, pcymene, p-methoxy acetophenone and dihydrocarveol. Long pepper contains less essential oil than its relatives (about 1%), which consists of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and ethers (bisabolene, β-caryophyllene, β-caryophyllene oxide, each 10 to 20%; α-zingiberene, 5%), and saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons such as 18% pentadecane, 7% tridecane, 6% heptadecane. The essential oil of the fruits showed fungicidal activity of P. longum L. The fruit-derived materials was tested towards six phytopathogenic fungi, Pyricularia oryzae, Rhizoctonia solani, Botrytis cineria, Phytophthora infestans, Puccinia recondita, and Erysiphe graminis using a whole plant in vivo method 42-44. A piperidine alkaloid, pipernonaline, was isolated from the hexane fraction of P.longum showed a potent fungicidal activity against P. recondita with 91% and 80% control values at the concentration of 0.5 and 0.25 mg ml−1.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

PCR stands for Post Consumer Recycled materials. These plastics are popular with customers looking to reduce the amount of virgin plastic in their product packaging.

Generally produced from discarded plastic milk and drinks bottles, PCR materials are environmentally sustainable solution for reusing single-use materials that would otherwise be disposed of landfill sites.

PCR materials can be recycled again for new manufacturing to provide genuine sustainability.

Peralizing agent: Gives a product an opaque, shiny or glossy, pearly appearance.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives. It is a broad-spectrum preservative, but it is slightly weaker against Gram-positive bacteria than the other species types.
Phenoxyethanol is slightly water-soluble (approximately 2.4%) and is preferably added to the product at temperatures below 40°C to reduce the possibility of evaporative loss, although this is only likely to be an issue should the manufactured batch be held at a high temperature (>80°C) for a prolonged period.
It retains its activity over a broad pH range, from pH 3 to 9. Typical use concentrations are 0.4–1.0%. Phenoxyethanol is more commonly used in combination with other preservatives and is rarely used alone. Phenoxyethanol is permitted in most territories, with restrictions.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

Oil-in-water emulsions typically contain 10 to 35% oil phase, and a lower viscosity emulsion may have an oil phase reduced to 5 to 15%. Water in the external phase of the emulsion helps hydrate the stratum corneum of the skin. This is desirable when one desires to incorporate water-soluble active ingredients in the vehicle. Oil droplets in emulsions have a lower density than the phase they are suspended in; to have a stable emulsion it is important to adjust the specific gravity of the oil and water phases as closely as possible.

Viscosity of the water phase (external phase) may be increased to impede the upward migration of the oil particles. Addition of waxes to the oil phase will increase specific gravity but have a profound effect on the appearance, texture, and feel on application to skin of the product. Increasing water-phase viscosity is one of the most common approaches.

Natural thickeners (alginates, caragenates, xanthan) and cellulosic (carboxymethyl cellulose) gums are used for this purpose.
Carbopol resin is perhaps the most popular gum thickener for contributing towards emulsion stability, especially at higher temperatures. The addition of a fatty amine to a Carbopol resin will further enhance stability by strengthening the interface of the water and oil phases through partial solubilization into the oil droplets. Electrolytes and cationic materials will have a destabilizing effect on anionic sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and should not be used together. Veegum, an inorganic aluminum silicate material, is also commonly used to thicken emulsions. Carbopol and Veegum may be used together to modify the characteristic draggy feel of Carbopol when used at the higher levels.

Emulsifier blends with HLBs ranging from 7 to 16 are used for forming o/w emulsions. In the blend, the hydrophilic emulsifier should be formulated as the predominate
emulsifier to obtain the best emulsion. A popular emulsifier, the glycerol monostearate and polyoxyethylene stearate blend is self-emulsifying and acid-stable. Emulsifiers are called self-emulsifying when an auxiliary anionic or nonionic emulsifier is added for easier emulsification of the formulation. Formulating with self-emulsifying materials containing nonionic emulsifiers permit a wide range of ingredient choice for the formulator, especially with acid systems. In alkaline formulations, polyoxyethylene ether–type emulsifiers are preferred with respect to emulsion stability.

An alternative to glycerol monostearate self-emulsifying emulsifier is Emulsifying Wax, National Formulary (NF). This emulsifier, when used with a fatty alcohol will form viscous liquids to creams depending on the other oil-phase ingredients used. Use levels may vary from 2 to 15%; at lower levels a secondary emulsifier such as the oleths or PEG-glycerides will give good stability. This system is good for stabilizing electrolyte emulsions or when other ionic materials are formulated into the vehicle. Polysorbates are o/w emulsifiers, wetting agents, and solubilizers often used with cetyl or stearyl alcohol at 0.5 to 5.0% to produce o/w emulsions.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a signal peptide that results of the conjugation of palmitic acid with tripeptide-1 which performs two functions: signal peptide and carrier peptide when complexed with copper. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 act on the TGF-β, which is responsible for stimulating dermal fibroblasts to produce ECM proteins, which will reinforce the epidermis, but also reduce wrinkles.

Source: Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology - Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems

Oil phase is the oil soluble components of an emulsion.

Ozokerite wax is generally a white, crystalline, odorless and tasteless solid. It is most often made from blends of paraffin and microcrystalline waxes, and when combined offers broader functionality than the constituent ingredients. It is used extensively in personal care and cosmetic formulations. It will increase viscosity, assist in emulsion stability and enhance gel strength in liquid and semi-solid systems. It is a hard wax with a relatively high melting point. These characteristics encourage its use in lipstick and lip care products to promote structure and stick strength.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

The main components are long-chain wax esters with chain lengths of around C60. Although it has
similar chemistry to sunflower wax, its applications are quite different. Refined rice bran wax has a very
hydrophobic character. It forms soft oil gels and is therefore highly preferred for emulsions like mascaras
and skin care products.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters