Glutamic Acid – Cosmetic Uses in Moisturising and Skin Care

What Is Glutamic Acid?

Glutamic acid is a naturally occurring acidic amino acid that forms part of proteins and peptides. It is also an important component of the amino acid pool present in the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).

As an amino acid with two carboxylic acid groups and one amino group, its ionic state and behaviour in cosmetic formulations depend on pH.

Cosmetic Uses of Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid and glutamate-derived ingredients are used in a wide range of cosmetic and personal care products, including skin care, hair care, bath products, eye makeup and tanning products.

Its main cosmetic relevance is its ability to contribute to water binding and skin conditioning. It can therefore be incorporated into moisturising formulations and amino-acid-based systems designed to complement components of the skin's NMF.

Hair Care

Glutamic acid can also be used in hair care formulations. Amino acids may contribute to hair conditioning and help improve the feel, flexibility and manageability of the hair.

Glutamic acid may be incorporated into moisturising systems designed to support hair hydration and conditioning.

Glutamic Acid Derivatives

Glutamic acid should not be confused with related ingredients such as Sodium Glutamate, Zinc Glutamate, Polyglutamic Acid and Sodium Polyglutamate. Although chemically related, these materials have different molecular structures, physicochemical properties and formulation behaviour.

Formulation Considerations

Glutamic acid is water soluble and is generally suitable for incorporation into the aqueous phase of cosmetic formulations. Because it is ionisable, formulation pH can influence its behaviour.

Compatibility with preservatives, electrolytes and other active ingredients should be evaluated during formulation development. Finished products should also undergo appropriate stability testing.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Glutamic Acid
CAS: 56-86-0
EINECS/EC: 200-293-7
Molecular Formula: C₅H₉NO₄
Molecular Weight: 147.13 g/mol
Chemical Class: Amino Acid
Functions: Humectant, Antistatic, Skin Conditioning Agent

References

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients. Dweck Books.

U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Substances Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS).

European Commission. CosIng – Cosmetic Ingredients Database.

National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem – Glutamic Acid.

National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubMed – Glutamic Acid, Natural Moisturizing Factor and skin hydration.

Ashland. Hygroplex™ HHG – Technical Information.