Knowledge Base
According to the European Commission Dir. 93/35/EEC, Art. 1, a cosmetic product is defined as ‘any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odour and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition’ [EU, 1993a].
This definition gives an indication on the target site of application of a cosmetic product and on its allowed functions [Colipa, 2004]. Thus, products such as skin creams, lotions, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial make-up preparations, soap products, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colours, toothpastes, deodorants, fall under the category of cosmetic products in the EU.
More questionable product types such as suntanning preparations, antiperspirants and antidandruff shampoos are also considered cosmetics within Europe, whereas this may differ in other parts of the world [Pauwels and Rogiers, 2004].
Source: Safety Assessment of Cosmetics in Europe - Vera Rogiers and Marleen Pauwels
According to the REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL a cosmetic products may include creams, emulsions, lotions,
gels and oils for the skin, face masks, tinted bases (liquids, pastes, powders), make-up powders, after-bath powders, hygienic powders, toilet soaps, deodorant soaps, perfumes, toilet waters and eau de Cologne, bath and shower preparations (salts, foams, oils, gels), depilatories, deodorants and anti-perspirants, hair colorants, products for waving, straightening and fixing hair, hair-setting products, haircleansing products (lotions, powders, shampoos), hairconditioning products (lotions, creams, oils), hairdressing products (lotions, lacquers, brilliantines), shaving products (creams, foams, lotions), make-up and products removing make-up, products intended for application to the lips, products for care of the teeth and the mouth, products for nail care and make-up, products for external intimate hygiene, sunbathing products, products for tanning without sun, skin-whitening products and anti-wrinkle products.
Copper tripeptide-1 (Cu-GHK) was the first peptide used in cosmetics for skin application, and resemble the alpha chain of collagen.
This carrier peptide is very versatile concerning several skin functions, including stimulation of collagen, glycosaminoglycans, elastin and proteoglycans synthesis by fibroblasts, as well as anti-inflammatory response. Cu-GHK comprises numerous cosmetic applications, being used in products for its efficacy in reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and photo damage, in stimulating keratinocyte proliferation and improving the skin barrier.
A study conducted by Huang et al., demonstrated that Cu-GHK when used with therapeutic light-emitting diode (light therapy to prevent aging and aid the healing process) led to an increase in pro collagen type I synthesis (about 230.0 %), as well as in basic fibroblast growth factor production (about 30.0 %). Therefore, it is concluded that Cu-GHK may be an ally in combating skin aging, since it promotes fibroblast growth and collagen synthesis, as well as epidermal repair.
Source: Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology - Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems
Carnauba wax is a secretion of the Brazilian palm Copernicia cerifera, which produces the wax in the cuticula of the fronds. The leaves are harvested from trees growing in the wild by cutting the leaves, drying them in the sun and threshing. Carnauba wax has an extremely narrow melting curve with a melting point of approximately 84°C. The wax, which exhibits high crystallinity and a high degree of contraction, is very hard and brittle. Carnauba wax also has highly favorable emulsification properties and an excellent capacity for binding ester oils and mineral oil. It raises the melting point of oil gels; therefore, carnauba wax is a preferred additive in lipsticks and lip balms, and is highly suitable for use in mascaras. It provides glossy and lustrous surfaces.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
Collagen is a natural protein found in the connective tissue of the skin (where it accounts for 70% of its content), as well as in the organs, muscles, bone and cartilage. In fact, there are more than 25 different types of collagen in our bodies. In the skin, it adds suppleness, plumpness, flexibility and spring, and, together with elastin, adds texture and structure. However, as skin ages or is exposed to sun damage, its collagen content is reduced, making skin progressively drier, thinner, flatter, less flexible and more wrinkle-prone. Since animal-derived and plant- derived pseudo-collagen also retains many times its own weight in water, these substitutes are used as conditioning, hydrating and suppleness-boosting ingredients in anti-aging products.
Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck
Improves the feel of hair and skin. For example, hair conditioners leave hair smooth, soft and static-free.
Benefits of conditioning agents
Conditioning agents offer a number of benefits for hair and skin, including:
Reduce frizz: Conditioning agents smooth the hair shaft and fill in gaps between the cuticles, which helps to reduce frizz and make the hair look more manageable.
Increase shine: Conditioning agents add a layer of lubrication to the hair shaft, which helps to reflect light and make the hair look shinier.
Improve detangling: Conditioning agents make the hair slippery and easier to comb, which can help to prevent breakage and split ends.
Protect from damage: Conditioning agents help to seal in moisture and protect the hair from environmental damage, such as heat styling, sun exposure, and chlorine.
Hydrate the skin: Conditioning agents can help to hydrate the skin and make it feel soft and supple.
It is the white, semi solid fat extracted from coconut kernels. Besides being an emollient, it lathers easily, so it is ideal use in baby soap, cleansers, shampoos, and shaving cream. Often blended with other fats, it is also popular in hair styling products, massage creams, ointments, pre-shave lotions and suncare.(ACD: it is an oil and does not lather at all, it saponified easily to produce a sodium or potassium cocoate soap that lathers with a rich, creamy foam). Coconut oil is the natural alternative to mineral oil and it is an excellent moisturiser, emollient, and protective to dry and scaly skin. Using coconut oil as a pre wash conditioner can help reduce or eliminate dandruff.
(CAS: 8001-31-8/EINECS: 232-282-8)
Citric Acid is one of the best known and most widely used fruit acids. Its counterpart is a “natural” for buffering cosmetic products to the pH of the skin (5.5, 6.0). It provides a major labelling advantage over hydrochloric acid or phosphoric acids. Citric acid is a very mild acid. At concentrations normally used in cosmetic applications it is non-irritating to the skin and practically odourless.The main commercial source is from the fermentation of crude molasses by strains of Aspergillus niger. It is employed in “artificial lemon” bleach creams and lotions, in hair rinses, bath salts, denture powders, tablets, mouthwashes, nail bleaches and some astringent lotions. A 7% aq. Solution of citric acid approximates to lemon juice but does not possess the vitamin C activity.
(CAS: 77-92-9/EINECS: 201-069-1)
Colipa is the European trade association for cosmetic and personal care industry. Colipa represents the cosmetic industry at a national level where the association represents cosmetic and personal care manufacturers across Europe and beyond. The association represents a range number of innovative companies either directly or at national membership.
The need to have a product that is safe for the targeted group is important to both the producers and the consumers at large. Moreover, abiding by the set legislation in Europe requires that an umbrella body should be present to ensure quality. Individuals also like certified products that they feel safe when they use them. Over the last 50 years, Colipa has taken it on their shoulder it ensure consumers get the best product available on the market. During this period the organization has been the voice of cosmetic and personal care industry in Europe.
The association follows regulations set at the European level. As such the association in collaboration with other policymakers, it also makes sure that European regulation is as effective and appropriate as it could be. This makes our regulatory process understanding be not comparable to any other.
Source: www.colipa.eu
Chelating agents such as phytic acid extracted from rice bran could be added to enhance the activity of the natural preservative. There are a number of suppliers for this material. Another option is to use a naturally produced material such as sodium gluconate. Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid, produced by the fermentation of glucose. It is a white crystalline powder, very soluble in water. Non-corrosive, nontoxic and readily biodegradable (98% after two days), sodium gluconate is an effective chelating agent especially in alkaline and concentrated alkaline solutions.
It forms stable chelates with calcium, iron, copper, aluminum and other heavy metals. It is as effective as other chelating agents, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and related salts. Aqueous solutions of sodium gluconate are resistant to oxidation and reduction, even at high temperatures. However, it is easily degraded biologically (98% after two days) and thus presents no wastewater problem. It is used in the food industry.
Chelating agents interfere with the cellular membranes that surround all organisms and weaken them by depriving them of the trace elements that they need for cellular function. Extremely high levels of chelating agent have been used as preservatives on their own.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (pp. 83-84).
Charcoal Powder is the dried, carbonaceous material obtained from the heating of organic substances. It is a high activity powder carbon for use in continuous and batch dosing water treatment systems. It is manufactured from specific grades of bituminous coal to produce a high quality powder carbon. It is proven in the removal of taste and odour from water by the adsorption of contaminants such as Methyl Isoborneol and Geosmin. It is particularly efficient in the removal of pesticides from water such as Atrazine and Simazine, plus other dissolved organic matter. It can be used in the treatment of drinking water, wastewater (both domestic and industrial) and where colour causing contaminants need to be removed from water. Wet carbon in enclosed filters can deplete oxygen. No adverse effect is expected when applied to the skin, but there is no data to evaluate any effects.
(CAS: 8021-96-6/EINECS: not found)
A cosmetic challenge test is a test that is conducted to determine the efficacy of the preservative system in a cosmetic product. The test is done by adding a known number of bacteria and fungi to the product and then measuring the growth of the microorganisms over time.
The purpose of a cosmetic challenge test is to ensure that the product is safe to use and that it will not spoil or become contaminated during its shelf life. The test is also used to verify the effectiveness of the preservative system and to make sure that it is compatible with the other ingredients in the product.
The cosmetic challenge test is conducted according to a standard method, such as ISO 11930.
The most effective and consistent means of establishing the efficacy of a preservation system is to subject the product to a microbial challenge test. There are many variations on this test but, in its most simple form, the methods prescribed by various pharmacopoeia are a good basis, e.g. United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) and Pharmacopoeia Europa (Ph. Eur.). In the Ph. Eur. method, the product is inoculated with cultures of organisms representative of the four main subgroups of likely contaminants:
- Gram-negative bacteria – Pseudomonas aeruginosa
- Gram-positive bacteria – Staphylococcus aureus
- Yeasts – Candida albicans
- Moulds – Aspergillus brasiliensis
These cultures are inoculated in separate samples, and then checked for surviving colonies at specified time points. There are different criteria for success for bacteria than for fungi; both are measured on the degree of logarithmic reduction in colony numbers. In order to pass the criteria for bacteria, the colony count must be reduced by at least log 2 within 2 days, and by at least log 3 within 7 days, with no increase in numbers thereafter (being tested also after 14 and 28 days). In order to pass the criteria for fungi, the colony count must be reduced by at least log 2 within 7 days, with no increase thereafter, again, up to 28 days.
The criteria described here, from the Ph. Eur., are the ‘A’ criteria. There are also ‘B’ criteria, which are less stringent and are applied only in situations where the possibility of microbial contamination is greatly reduced, usually due to packaging (e.g. single-use packs). The USP criteria include the Gram-negative bacterium Escherichia coli and are less stringent than those of the Ph. Eur., requiring only that there is no increase in the initial numbers of A. brasiliensis and C. albicans up to 28 days, and only a 1 log reduction of bacteria by 7 days; then a 3 log reduction by 14 days, with no increase at 28 days.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
Chemical Abstracts Service Registry. A registry of unique numeric identifiers allocated to each substance. A CAS Registry Number (abbreviated CASN, CASRN or CAS#) can contain up to 10 digits, divided by hyphens into 3 parts. The first part of the number has up to 7 digits; the second part has 2 digits, and the final part consists of a single check digit used to verify by computer the validity and uniqueness of the entire number. The full CAS Registry can be searched from different online sources.
Source: https://ec.europa.eu/
Cellulose Gum is a modified cellulose polymer used in cosmetic products up to 10%. Most cellulose gums are naturally derived as an unwanted part of the wood pulp process to produce paper. Cellulose is the main constituent in plant fibre. Cotton, for example, is 90% cellulose. Used as a thickening agent and emulsifier, it is widely used in cosmetics, hair and skin care because it swells in water. The cellulose derivatives pass essentially unchanged through the gastrointestinal tract following oral administration. It is practically non toxic when administered by inhalation or by oral, intraperitoneal, subcutaneous, or dermal routes. The cellulose derivatives up to 100% were non irritating to mildly irritating, non sensitising, and non photosensitizing when evaluated in clinical studies. It is concluded that the ingredient reviewed is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration.
(CAS: 9004-32-4/EINECS: not found)
An extract of the flowers of the ylang-ylang, cananga odorata, Annonaceae. Ylang-ylang is extremely effective in calming and bringing about a sense of relaxation. It is antispasmodic, balances equilibrium, said to help with sexual disabilities and frigidity and has been used traditionally to balance heart function. Ylang-ylang in the Malayan language means “flower of flowers”. The scent is very sensual, sweet and reminiscent of almonds. It is mentally relaxing and soothing. It is useful in treating insomnia, anger, anxiety and low-esteem. It is said to relax facial muscles and a massage with ylang-ylang helps to ease tension headaches.
(CAS: 83863-30-3/EINECS: 281-092-1)
Beeswax is a secretion of the abdominal glands of the honeybee. When freshly secreted, beeswax is white and colourless, but will acquire a colour primarily by the bee picking up and storing pollen and honey. For cosmetic purposes, yellow-grade beeswax is defined as cera flava and white-grade beeswax as cera alba. Beeswax has a relatively low melting point (61–65°C), is moderately hard, and somewhat sticky, plastic and kneadable at body temperature. It is one of the best oil-binding waxes known, therefore considerable amounts of beeswax are used in lipstick and lip balm preparations to produce creamy textures, favorable adhesion to the skin, and films that are well-received among consumers. The oil-gelling properties of beeswax are helpful for stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions for skin and hair applications and for texturizing effects. Beeswax is also used as a means of enhancing texture and adding volume in mascara and make-up.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
Skin ceramides are amides of sphingosine and ω-hydroxy fatty acids, with the hydroxyl group esterified with linoleic acid. They are colourless wax-like substances that are practically insoluble in water. They are usually available in powder form. They can be isolated from the above mentioned natural sources, but are mostly produced today by synthesis. Ceramides are the main intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and are crucial for the proper organisation of lipid lamellar phases. They are classified in the group of sphingolipids.
Source: Modern Cosmetics - Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač
Is a stimulating ingredient that occurs naturally in coffee, cola, chocolate, guarana, kola nuts and tea. It is an alkaloid and distantly related to aminophylline, which is often incorporated into anti-cellulite treatments. Employed for its toning, energising effect, it aids the penetration of other ingredients, provides a draining action (making it effective against puffy eyes), reduces flakiness, dryness and damage, and enhances skin suppleness. It is therefore used in bath care, cleansers, eye creams and gels, make-up and shaving preparations. Caffeine is a bitter, white crystalline xanthine alkaloid that is a psychoactive stimulant drug. Caffeine is found in varying quantities in the beans, leaves and fruit of some plants, where it acts as a natural pesticide that paralyses and kills certain insects feeding on the plants. Caffeine is a central nervous system (CNS) stimulant, having the effect of temporarily warding off drowsiness and restoring alertness. It is also used topically as a skin stimulant and often employed in anticellulite products.
(CAS: 58-082/EINECS: 200-362-1)
Bisabolol
Alpha Bisabolol is the active component of German chamomile oil and is proven to be anti-inflammatory, soothing and healing. It is a very beneficial material that is well documented and proven for its efficacy in protecting and repairing the skin. It has been identified as a natural component of various plants. For example, it has been found in the essential oils of matricaria chamomilla (German Chamomile), Myoporum crassifolium Forst and Vanillosmopsis erythropappa Shultz-Bip. It is used for sensitive skin, sunburn, rubbing, chafing, mechanical scraping (e.g. shaving), soreness, nappy rash and after using chemicals on the skin (e.g. depilation).
(CAS: 515-69-5/EINECS: 208-205-9)
Effective brand strategy provides a central, unifying idea around which all behavior, actions and communications are aligned. It works across products and services, and is effective over time. The best brand strategies are so differentiated and powerful that they deflect the competition. They are easy to talk abou, whether you are CEO or an employee.
Brand strategy builds on a vision, is aligned with business strategy, emerges from a company's values and culture, and reflects an indeőth understanding of the customer's needs and perceptions. Brand strategy defines positioning, differentiation, the competitive advantage, and unique value proposition.
Brand strategy needs to resonate with all the stakeholders: external customers, the media, and internal customers. Brand strategy is a road map that guides marketing, makes it easier for the sales force to sell more, and provides clarity, content, and inspiration to employees.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Branding is a disciplined process used to build awareness and extend customer loyalty. It requires a mandate from the top and readiness to invest in the future. Branding is about seizing every opportunity to express why people should choose one brand over another. A desire to lead, outpace the competition, and give employees the best tools to reach customers are the reasons why companies leverage branding.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Brand identity is tangible and appeals to the senses. You can see it, touch it, hear it, watch it move. Brand identity fuels recognition, amplifies differentiation, and makes big ideas and meaning accessible. Brand identity takes disparate elements and unifies them into whole systems.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
As competition creates infinite choices, companies look for ways to connect emotionally with customers, become irreplaceable, and create lifelong relationships. A strong brand stands out in a densely crowded marketplace. People fall in love with brands, trust them, and believe in their superiority. How a brand is perceived affects its success, regardless of whether it's a start-up, a nonprofit, or a product.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Bamboo Silica is one of the natural sources of plant silica. Lessonia has Bamboo 200, 500, 1000 and Bamboo 100. Bamboo Exfoliator is a solidified organic silica extracted from the nodes of specific bamboo stems, called tabasheer in the traditional Indian medicine. Bamboo 100 is especially ideal for microdermabrasion since it improves skin refinement and complexion clearness. Another exfoliant based on bamboo silica is available from Libiol. The bamboo exfoliant is obtained from the bamboo tabasheer stems collected in the form of an exudate that crystallizes at ambient temperature. The product is presented in the form of a very hard white mass. After crushing, one obtains a crystalline powder very rich in mineral salt. It is a source of silica (SiO2) since this particular variety of bamboo contains nearly 70% of it among the other minerals found. The bamboo exfoliant is particularly interesting for the manufacture of exfoliating creams or gels to remove the dead cells and debris from the skin surface. Bamboosilk from Naturactiva. Certain female bamboo contain a white secretion in their joints called tabasheer. It consists almost of pure hydrated silica and has been used in Indian phytotherapy for its remineralizing properties in treatment of arthritis, osteoporosis, and for strengthening hair and nails. Eastern medicinal tradition describes Tabasheer as alkaline, cold in nature and sweet in taste. It is considered as an aphrodisiac and tonic in China where it is called tian zhu huang. Bamboosilk imparts to powder formulations a variety of properties that include: a high sebum absorption capacity, a mattifying aspect and a silky smooth feel. It also helps to improve the ease of application and the spreadability for body lotions, absorbs excessive perspiration, reduces lipstick exudation, adds volume in mascaras and improves nail polish wear.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)
Behenyl Alcohol is a white, waxy solids. Isostearyl Alcohol is a clear liquid. Fatty alcohols are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes synthetic fatty alcohols including Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Myristyl Alcohol on its list of food additives permitted for direct addition to food as multipurpose food additives. Synthetic fatty alcohols are also permited as indirect food additives as adjuvants and production aids. The safety of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that these fatty alcohols were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. In 2005, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols and reaffirmed the above conclusion.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)
Is also known as Vitamin B7, Vitamin B Factor, Vitamin H and Coenzyme R.
Found naturally in nuts, liver, soy beans, fish, it improves product texture, adds volume and gloss to hair, moisturises and smoothes the skin surface and even strengthens brittle nails. It is therefore used largely as a moisturiser and texturizer in skin care products and hair conditioners, although claims have also been made for healing properties and its suitability in acne treatments.Biotin is a water soluble vitamin used as a hair-conditioning agent and a skin-conditioning agent in many cosmetic products at concentrations ranging from 0,01% to 0,6%. Maximum safe concentration is 1%.
(CAS: 58-85-5/EINECS: 200-399-3)
A preservative that is found naturally in nature, usually in balsamic resins (such as Tolu Balsam). The form used in this product is ‘natural identical’, simply because the price of extraction from a natural resin is prohibitively expensive. CIR Expert Panel: Concentration or other limitation on use for safe with qualifications conclusion: safe for use in all cosmetic formulations up to 5%, safe for use in hair dyes up to 10%
