Although less popular than o/w emulsions, these systems may be desirable when greater release of a medicating agent or the perception of greater emolliency is desired. Emulsifiers having an HLB range of 2.5 to 6 are frequently selected. When multiple emulsifiers are used, the predominant one is generally lipophilic with a smaller quantity of a hydrophilic emulsifier. These emulsions typically have a total of 45 to 80% oil phase.

Nowdays, formulators have become interested in more elegant w/o emulsions. This has been achieved by formulating with new emulsifying agents, emollient such as esters, Guerbet alcohols, and silicones. Selection of a suitable emollient depends on ability of the material to spread on skin with low tack, dermal compatibility, and perceived elegance by the user. In achieving this elegance, some researchers suggest a correlation of emollient and molecular weight of the emollients. In these studies, viscosity of w/o creams has correlated with molecular weight of the emollients used in test formulations.

High–molecular-weight co-emulsifiers formulated with high–molecular-weight emollients gave more stable w/o emulsions. The polarity of the emollients used was found to be important as well.

Emollients or mixtures of emollients with medium polarity gave test lotions the most desirable stability results. Anionic emulsifiers are generally inefficient w/o emulsion stabilizers, because more surface active agents are often needed to stabilize these emulsions. Sorbitan stearates and oleates are effective emulsifiers when
used at 0.5 to 5.0% sorbitan isostearates, being branched chain materials, give a very uniform particle size for w/o emulsions.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract. Grape seed extract is derived from the small seeds (and occasionally the skins) of red grapes--the same kind that are pressed to make wine. Used extensively in Europe, grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids, phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties some consider even greater than the old standbys vitamin C and vitamin E. Antioxidants are believed to prevent and control numerous ailments by safeguarding cells against free radicals. The main benefit of grape fruit seed extract comes from proanthocyanidins. There are no adverse effect expected from the topical application of this extract. [CAS: 84929-27-1; EINECS: 284-511-6]. Function: Skin protecting.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Water phase is the water-soluble portion of an emulsion.

The physical quantity ‘viscosity’ gives information on how thick a fluid is and how easily it flows. In scientific terms, viscosity is the measure of a fluid’s internal flow resistance. It is the resistance which a fluid shows when being deformed.

In order to determine a fluid’s viscosity, you have to enter the field of viscometry, a subject area of a wider science called rheology. Rheology deals with the flow behavior and deformation of materials.

Imagine all materials as classified on a virtual scale from solid to liquid. Scientists specify solid materials as being elastic and liquids as being viscous. In everyday life, we mostly come across viscoelastic materials. That is, substances which are neither completely elastic, nor entirely viscous. According to a material’s properties, we either classify it as a viscoelastic solid (like e.g. sweet jelly) or as a viscoelastic liquid (like e.g. a yoghurt drink or shower gel).

The specific field of viscometry covers ideally viscous fluids, and – considering certain restrictions – also viscoelastic liquids, i.e. viscous fluids that contain an elastic portion. Fluids which flow easily show a low resistance to deformation. They are low-viscosity fluids. High-viscosity fluids resist deformation. Consequently, they do not flow easily.

What influences flow behavior?

- The substance's molecular structure

- The shear rate

- External conditions, like temperature or pressure

The dimensions of dynamic viscosity are force × time ÷ area. The unit of viscosity, accordingly, is newton-second per square metre, which is usually expressed as pascal-second in SI units.

Source: Official website of Anton-Paar and Britannica.com

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What Are Waxes?

Waxes are mixtures of hydrophobic organic substances of medium-chain length. They melt at temperatures ranging from approximately 40°C to 140°C without decomposition and re-solidify without significant chemical change. Their solubility and consistency are strongly dependent on temperature.

Types of Waxes

Waxes can be classified according to their origin into three main groups:

Animal Waxes
These are obtained from animal-derived sources and have traditionally been used in cosmetic and personal care formulations.

Vegetable Waxes
These are obtained from plants and are widely used as alternatives to animal-derived waxes in cosmetic formulations.

Mineral Waxes
These are derived from mineral sources and are commonly used where specific texture, consistency and stability properties are required.

Cosmetic Applications

Waxes are important formulation ingredients because their physical properties change with temperature. They can contribute to the consistency and structure of cosmetic products and are therefore commonly incorporated into formulations where a defined texture and solid or semi-solid consistency are required.

They can be found in various cosmetic products, including creams, balms, lip products, ointments and decorative cosmetics.

Why Are Waxes Important in Formulation?

The melting behaviour and temperature-dependent consistency of waxes make them useful for controlling the physical characteristics of a formulation. Selecting the appropriate type and concentration of wax allows formulators to influence the structure, texture and overall sensory properties of the finished product.

References

Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice – Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters.

What Is a Formulation?

A formulation is a mixture of ingredients combined in a specific way to achieve a defined purpose. In cosmetics, a formulation is the combination of ingredients that makes up a cosmetic product.

The formulation plays a central role in determining the product’s performance, appearance, texture, stability and shelf life.

Active and Inactive Ingredients

Cosmetic formulation ingredients can broadly be divided into two categories: active and inactive ingredients.

Active Ingredients
Active ingredients provide the desired cosmetic effect of a product. Depending on the formulation, they may contribute to moisturising, exfoliating, protecting or other intended skincare benefits.

Inactive Ingredients
Inactive ingredients support the overall performance, appearance and stability of the formulation. Examples include thickeners, preservatives and fragrances.

The Purpose of Cosmetic Formulation

The goal of cosmetic formulation is to create products that are safe, effective and appealing while meeting consumer expectations. A successful formulation must also comply with applicable regulatory requirements and quality standards within the cosmetics industry.

Why Is Formulation Important?

Formulation determines how the different ingredients work together within the finished product. The correct selection and combination of ingredients is therefore essential for achieving the desired sensory properties, performance, stability and shelf life of a cosmetic product.

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is an extract of the Alga, Undaria pinnatifida, Alariaceae. Undaria pinnatifida. Sea Mustard, Wakame, Japanese Kelp. The algae has resistance against harsh environmental stress (UV light, water movements and abrasions) that is related to its content of a special sulphated polysaccharide called fucoidan that protects the algae’s body wall from losing integrity and stability. It contains proteins, lipids, micronutrients, vitamins and sugar that lead to a revitalizing and energizing action on skin cells. It has been reported that fucoidan has radical scavenging and hyaluronidase inhibitory properties. It is these properties that make Wakame a useful antiaging active ingredient in cosmetics. Supplier: Crodarom produces a glycerin/aqueous extract of U. pinnatifida (Phytessence Wakame) and has shown that the protection of hyaluronic acid degradation by inhibition of hyaluronidase enzyme activity prevents deterioration of skin tissues, decrease of dermal thickness and improved firmness.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Sea mustard, Wakame, Japanese Kelp. The algae has resistance against harsh environmental stress (UV light, water movements and abrasions) that is related to its content of a special sulphated polysaccharide called fucodian that protects the algae's body wall from losing integrity and stability. It contains proteins, lipids microturients, vitamins and sugar that lead to a revitalizing and energizing action on skin cells. It has been reported that fucodian has radical scavenging and hyaluronidase inhibitory properties. It is these properties that make Wakame a useful antiaging active ingredient in cosmetics.

Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck

What Is a Unique Selling Point?

A Unique Selling Point or Unique Selling Proposition is a marketing concept that describes the one thing that makes a product or service different from the competition. It identifies what makes the offering special and worth buying.

A USP can be based on a product feature, benefit, technology, formulation, service, quality, positioning or another characteristic that provides meaningful differentiation.

What Makes a Good USP?

A strong USP should be:

Clear and Concise
The message should be easy to understand and communicate the main point without unnecessary complexity.

Believable
The USP should be credible and supported by the actual characteristics or benefits of the product or service.

Persuasive
It should communicate a compelling reason for customers to choose the product or service.

Relevant to the Target Audience
The USP should address something that is meaningful and valuable to the intended customer.

Why Is a USP Important?

A well-defined USP helps a brand differentiate itself in a competitive market. It provides a clear foundation for marketing communication and helps customers understand why a particular product or service is different from available alternatives.

USP in Cosmetic Product Development

In cosmetics, a USP can be built around factors such as a distinctive formulation, specific ingredient concept, sensory experience, product performance, sustainability approach or a clearly defined consumer benefit. A strong USP can therefore connect product development with brand positioning and marketing strategy.

What Is Transepidermal Water Loss?

Transepidermal Water Loss, commonly abbreviated as TEWL, describes the amount of water that evaporates from the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, into the surrounding environment.

TEWL is a natural physiological process. Even healthy skin continuously loses a certain amount of water to the environment. However, the rate of water loss can increase when the skin barrier is compromised or when environmental and external factors place additional stress on the skin.

Factors such as dry air, hot weather and harsh cleansing products can increase TEWL. Elevated TEWL is also commonly associated with dry skin and certain skin conditions.

TEWL and the Skin Barrier

The Role of the Stratum Corneum

The stratum corneum forms the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in limiting the loss of water from the skin.

A healthy and intact skin barrier helps regulate the movement of water between the skin and the surrounding environment. When the barrier is disrupted, water can evaporate more readily from the skin surface, resulting in increased TEWL.

TEWL as an Indicator of Barrier Function

TEWL is widely used as an objective, non-invasive measurement of the skin's barrier to evaporative water loss.

The original research history of TEWL measurements dates back to the classic experiment by Pinson in 1942, which compared insensible perspiration from corresponding skin sites with and without active sweat glands.

Today, TEWL measurements are used in dermatological and cosmetic research to evaluate changes in skin barrier function and to assess how different products or treatments affect the skin.

What Can Increase TEWL?

Dry Environmental Conditions

Dry air can increase the rate at which water evaporates from the skin. Low environmental humidity can therefore contribute to increased TEWL and a drier skin feel.

Heat

Higher temperatures can influence water evaporation from the skin and may contribute to changes in TEWL measurements.

Harsh Cleansing

Aggressive cleansing products or excessive cleansing can disturb the skin surface and its barrier properties. This may increase water loss and contribute to dry or uncomfortable skin.

Skin Barrier Disruption

Any factor that compromises the integrity of the stratum corneum can potentially increase TEWL. This is why TEWL is frequently used when evaluating the condition and recovery of the skin barrier.

How Is TEWL Measured?

TEWL is measured by assessing the amount of water vapour leaving the skin surface. The result is commonly expressed in grams per square metre per hour (g/m²/h).

Reported TEWL values can vary considerably depending on factors such as body site, environmental conditions, age and individual skin characteristics. The original A&T content gives a normal TEWL range of approximately 2.3 to 44 g/m²/h.

For TEWL to provide a meaningful indication of skin barrier function, measurements need to be performed under controlled conditions and without active sweating.

Controlled Conditions for TEWL Measurement

Temperature and Relative Humidity

TEWL measurements are typically performed in controlled temperature and humidity conditions. The original A&T content describes a typical environment of approximately 21°C and 50% relative humidity (RH).

Subjects are generally allowed to rest before measurement so that external factors such as physical activity and increased sweating do not interfere with the results.

Dry Skin Surface

The skin surface should be dry when TEWL is measured. Active sweat gland activity can affect water evaporation independently of the passive water loss associated with the skin barrier.

For this reason, TEWL is considered a true reflection of stratum corneum barrier function only when the skin surface is dry and sweat gland activity is absent or adequately controlled.

Basal TEWL

Basal or baseline TEWL refers to the resting rate of evaporative water loss through normal, non-perturbed skin.

Basal TEWL is generally low in healthy, intact skin, although significant differences can occur between different anatomical sites.

It is used as an important endpoint when studying natural variation in skin barrier function across factors such as age, body site and other individual characteristics.

TEWL in Cosmetic Research

Evaluating Skin Barrier Products

TEWL can be used to evaluate whether a cosmetic product supports or affects the skin barrier. Changes in TEWL before and after product application can provide objective information about changes in evaporative water loss.

Assessing Moisturising Formulations

Moisturising and barrier-supporting formulations can be evaluated using TEWL alongside other measurements of skin hydration and skin condition.

A reduction in TEWL may indicate improved resistance to evaporative water loss, although TEWL should be interpreted together with other relevant parameters rather than used as the sole measure of product performance.

Measuring Skin Stress and Recovery

TEWL can also be used in cosmetic research to assess how the skin responds to controlled stress or irritation and how quickly barrier function returns towards baseline.

TEWL Measurement Instruments

Several non-invasive instruments are commonly used to measure TEWL.

Tewameter® Evaporimeter

The Tewameter® evaporimeter, manufactured by Courage + Khazaka in Cologne, Germany, is one of the established instruments used for measuring transepidermal water loss.

Dermalab TEWL Module

The Dermalab TEWL module, developed by Cortex Technologies in Hadsund, Denmark, is another system used for non-invasive TEWL measurements.

ServoMed® Evaporimeter

The ServoMed® evaporimeter, manufactured by Servomed in Varberg, Sweden, is also used for evaluating evaporative water loss from the skin.

TEWL and Skin Permeability

TEWL is primarily a measurement of evaporative water loss and skin barrier function. The relationship between TEWL and the skin's permeability to topical substances has been investigated extensively.

While some in vitro evidence has questioned whether TEWL can directly predict the permeability of skin to topical substances, subsequent validation studies have continued to support TEWL as an important objective measure of the skin barrier to evaporative water loss.

For cosmetic formulation and research, TEWL is therefore best understood as a specific measure of water loss and barrier function rather than a universal measurement of skin permeability.

Why Is TEWL Important in Cosmetic Formulation?

TEWL provides formulators and cosmetic researchers with an objective parameter for evaluating the condition of the skin barrier.

When developing moisturisers, barrier-supporting products and other skincare formulations, TEWL measurements can complement subjective assessments and other instrumental measurements. This can help provide a more complete picture of how a product influences skin hydration and barrier function.

References

Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic Development – Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts.

Amphoteric surfactants are amino acid derivatives; their net charge varies with the pH in solution. At pH below the isoelectric point they are positively charged in aqueous solution and can consequently adsorb more easily onto the skin. Alkyl chain length can also significantly act on the skin feel; some betaines based on C16/C18 cuts provide more greasy, refattened feel but also have detrimental effect on foam. Polydimethylsiloxane grafted with a betaine moiety leads to an amphoteric surfactant combining substantivity, refattening properties as well as silicone typical skin feel profile.

Some nonionics are used for their emollient properties and excellent afterfeel; e.g., sucrose and methyl glucose esters as well as sucrose ethers. Fatty acid alkanolamides are often referred to as refatteners; these are not lipids but they confer a greasy slippery feel to the foam and impart a particular afterfeel on the skin that subjectively compares with refatting. Several mild anionic surfactants are known to provide improved skin feel (afterfeel) by themselves, e.g., sarcosinate, taurate, acylglutamate, and isethionate. Fatty acids–protein condensates salts also act as conditioning aids, imparting a pleasant, smooth feel to the skin. The inclusion of fatty acids in soap and syndet bars contributes to enhance skin feel during and after use, and produces creamier lather. Phosphoric acid fatty esters deliver soap-like skin feel: slipperiness during use, and very good rinseability leaving skin feeling ‘‘clean’’ and powdery.

Benefits brought by additional skin conditioning agents are sometimes hidden by a mild or very mild cleaning-surfactant system delivering by itself very good skin feel properties; the sensorial baseline is high to start with and the increment in performance brought by skin feel agent is leveled off, and sometimes not even perceivable. It is, however, important to notice that several mild anionic and most of the nonionic surfactants, if they provide a pleasant afterfeel, are characterized by a ‘‘water feel’’ (feel in solution) that is often unpleasant, with rough and drag feel sensations.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

The use of rheological additives such as clays, plant exudates, and natural polymers, to formulate personal-care products dates back to ancient times. These rheological additives are used to thicken the fluid, suspend dispersions of additives in the fluid, and improve the stability of the ensuing dispersion or emulsion as a function of temperature and shear history. An attempt will be made in this chapter to classify the wide array of rheological additives with respect to the actual function they serve in the final product.

Water and oils form the base fluids in which most personal-care and cosmetic products are formulated. These base fluids are generally classed as viscous or Newtonian fluids in that they possess a characteristic viscosity that is independent of the imposed rate of deformation. Newtonian fluids are also viewed as ideal fluids, in that they flow readily when subjected to very low deformations.
Non-Newtonian fluids on the other hand possess viscosities that are dependent on the rate of deformation and may exhibit other properties such as elasticity, yield stress, and thixotropy not seen in Newtonian fluids.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Suspensions are not just vehicles but products consisting of particles, generally actives or functional excipients, that are dispersed in a liquid or semisolid medium that functions as a vehicle. Nevertheless, a suspension is also a type of formulation that may be used for application on the skin and to deliver substances to a target. In this way, a suspension can be regarded as a vehicle entity affecting the application site. Examples are sun-protection products or pearlescent nail lacquers containing pigments.

In suspension, sedimentation of unsoluble particles may happen because of difference in density. In order to guarantee a homogeneous product when applied, the particles must be redispersible by shaking before use. Alternatively, sedimentation must be hindered or at least reduced during storage. This is achieved by reduction of particle size and/or by increasing the viscosity of the vehicle, ideally creating a thixotropic system. The vehicle effect of the suspension on the skin is primarily caused by the liquid or semisolid phase of the vehicle comparable to solutions and emulsions.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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What Is a Tagline?

A tagline is a short phrase that captures a company's brand essence, personality and positioning. It helps distinguish a brand from its competitors and communicates what the brand represents and delivers.

Although taglines may appear simple, an effective tagline is usually the result of a strategic and creative process rather than an arbitrary phrase.

Why Is a Tagline Important?

A well-developed tagline can become a shorthand expression of what a brand stands for. It gives customers a concise way to recognise and remember the brand and can reinforce its positioning across different communication channels.

Brand Recognition

A memorable tagline can strengthen brand recognition by consistently associating a distinctive phrase with the brand.

Brand Differentiation

A tagline can communicate an idea, promise or characteristic that helps distinguish a brand from competitors.

Communicating Brand Positioning

An effective tagline expresses an aspect of the brand's positioning in a concise and accessible way.

Building Brand Memory

The best taglines are meaningful and memorable. Consistent use over time can help a tagline become strongly associated with the brand.

What Makes a Good Tagline?

An effective tagline should be more than simply catchy. It should reflect the brand's strategic direction and communicate an idea that is relevant to its audience.

Strong taglines are generally:

• Meaningful
• Memorable
• Distinctive
• Consistent with the brand
• Relevant to the brand's positioning
• Capable of remaining effective over time

Taglines and Brand Strategy

A tagline should grow from the wider brand strategy rather than being developed independently. It should support the brand's personality, positioning and overall identity.

For cosmetic brands, a tagline can be particularly useful for communicating a distinctive philosophy, product promise or emotional positioning in a highly competitive market.

Taglines and Brand Identity

Taglines form part of the broader brand identity and communication system. They can be used alongside the brand name, visual identity, packaging, advertising and other communication elements to create a consistent brand experience.

Historically, taglines were often developed as the central message of advertising campaigns and could have relatively short lifespans. The strongest taglines, however, can transcend individual campaigns and remain relevant despite changes in the marketplace and lifestyle.

References

Source: Designing Brand Identity – Alina Wheeler.

Stearic acid is a natural fatty acid which occurs in both animals and plants. Many suppliers only use the vegetable-derived source of this wax. It forms the basis of many lotions and emulsions, and helps to protect the skin against moisture loss. It can be made to form a soap in situ with triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, which helps to keep the oil and the water in the emulsion from separating. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Stearic Acid on its list of direct food additives considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Stearic Acid is also permitted as a direct food additive in chewing gum base. The FDA also includes fatty acids on its list of food additives permitted for direct addition to food. The safety of Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid and Palmitic Acid has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data concluded that these ingredients were safe for use in cosmetic products. STEARIC ACID. [CAS: 57-11-4; EINECS: 200-313-4]. Function: Emulsifying/ emulsion stabilising/ refatting/ cleansing.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

A stick is a solid delivery vehicle cast in an elongated form. By rubbing a stick onto skin, a variety of cosmetic ingredients can be delivered, such as fragrances, coloring agents, and emollients. In particular, sticks are ideally suited to deliver insoluble substances, e.g., pigments.

The most popular cosmetic sticks are lipsticks and antiperspirant/deodorant sticks.

There are mainly three basic vehicle types of sticks:

1. Mixture of waxes (e.g., beeswax, carnauba) and oils (e.g., mineral, castor oil) that are cast into solid form, containing dissolved or undissolved active ingredients
2. Hydrophilic or aqueous sticks: solutions based on aqueous, propylene glycol, alcohol mixtures, solidified usually by sodium stearate, containing, e.g., aluminium chlorohydrate as antiperspirant
3. Matrix consisting of a high-boiling volatile silicone (e.g., cyclomethicone) gelled by fatty alcohol (e.g., stearyl alcohol)

In recent years, clear sticks have become popular. As a gelling agent, dibenzylidene sorbitol is used in propylene glycol or other related polyols.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Stakeholders can be individuals, groups, or organizations that may affect, be affected by, or perceive themselves to be affected by a decision, activity, or outcome of a portfolio, program, or project. Stakeholders also directly or indirectly influence a project, its performance, or outcome in either a positive or negative way.

- Stakeholders influence projects, performance, and outcomes.
- Project teams serve other stakeholders by engaging with them.
- Stakeholder engagement proactively advances value delivery.

Stakeholders can affect many aspects of a project, including but not limited to:

▶ Scope/requirements, by revealing the need to add, adjust, or remove elements of the scope and/or project requirements;
▶ Schedule, by offering ideas to accelerate delivery or by slowing down or stop delivery of key project activities;
▶ Cost, by helping to reduce or eliminate planned expenditures or by adding steps, requirements, or restrictions that increase cost or require additional resources;
▶ Project team, by restricting or enabling access to people with the skills, knowledge, and experience needed to deliver the intended outcomes, and promote a learning culture;
▶ Plans, by providing information for plans or by advocating for changes to agreed activities and work;
▶ Outcomes, by enabling or blocking work required for the desired outcomes;
▶ Culture, by establishing or influencing—or even defining—the level and character of engagement of the project team and broader organization;
▶ Benefits realization, by generating and identifying long-term goals so that the project delivers the intended identified value;
▶ Risk, by defining the risk thresholds of the project, as well as participating in subsequent risk management activities;
▶ Quality, by identifying and requiring quality requirements; and
▶ Success, by defining success factors and participating in the evaluation of success.

Stakeholders may come and go throughout the life cycle of the project. Additionally, the degree of a stakeholder’s interest, influence, or impact may change over time. Stakeholders, especially those with a high degree of influence and who have an unfavorable or neutral view about a project, need to be effectively engaged so that their interests, concerns, and rights are understood. The project team can then address these concerns through effective engagement and support leading to the probability of a successful project outcome.

The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition

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What Is Sugar Maple Extract?

Sugar Maple Extract, derived from Acer saccharum, is a plant-based cosmetic ingredient obtained from the Sugar Maple, a tree native to the hardwood forests of northeastern North America. Sugar Maple is particularly well known as one of the principal sources of sap used to produce maple syrup.

In cosmetic formulations, Sugar Maple Extract is valued for its skin-conditioning properties and its naturally occurring plant compounds. Its composition can contribute to formulations designed to support skin hydration, comfort and overall appearance.

Skin Benefits of Sugar Maple Extract

Hydrating and Water-Binding Properties

Sugar Maple Extract can help support skin hydration through its water-binding properties. This makes it a useful ingredient in formulations designed to improve the skin's moisture level and help maintain a smoother, more comfortable skin feel.

Soothing and Skin-Conditioning Properties

The extract is traditionally associated with soothing and skin-conditioning properties. In cosmetic formulations, it can be incorporated into products designed to support the appearance and feel of stressed or sensitive skin.

Astringent Properties

Sugar Maple Extract has mild astringent properties, making it suitable for formulations where a toning or refreshing effect is desired. This characteristic can be particularly relevant in products formulated for oily or combination skin.

Cosmetic Applications

Cleansers

Sugar Maple Extract can be incorporated into facial and body cleansers where its skin-conditioning and astringent properties complement the cleansing function of the formulation.

Masks

Its hydrating, soothing and conditioning characteristics make Sugar Maple Extract suitable for facial masks designed to improve the skin's overall feel, texture and appearance.

Moisturisers

Sugar Maple Extract can be used in moisturising formulations to support skin hydration and conditioning. It can be incorporated into creams, lotions and other leave-on products.

Suitable Skin Types

Dry and Dehydrated Skin

Its water-binding properties make Sugar Maple Extract relevant to formulations targeting dry or dehydrated skin where maintaining skin moisture is a key objective.

Sensitive Skin

The extract can be considered for formulations targeting sensitive skin due to its traditionally described soothing and conditioning properties.

Oily and Combination Skin

Its mild astringent properties can make Sugar Maple Extract suitable for formulations intended for oily or combination skin, particularly products with a toning or balancing positioning.

Ageing Skin

Sugar Maple Extract can also be incorporated into formulations targeting ageing skin, particularly where hydration, skin conditioning and improved skin texture are desired.

Ingredient Information

CAS: 91770-22-8

EINECS: 294-807-7

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The shelf life is the period during which the manufacturer has determined a cosmetic or personal care product to be best suited for use.

No regulations or requirements under current U.S. law require manufacturers to print specific expiration dates on the labels of cosmetics and personal care products. However, they are required to determine shelf life as part of their responsibility to substantiate safety.

In Europe, cosmetics products with a lifespan longer than 30 months must show a “period-after-opening” (PAO) time. PAO is the time, recorded in months, when the product will remain in good condition after the consumer has used it for the first time. A symbol of an open cream jar is usually used instead of words with the PAO alongside or inside the symbol. Although this symbol can be found on some U.S. cosmetics and personal care products, it is not required.

Any cosmetic or personal care product in Europe with a lifespan of fewer than 30 months must show a “best-before-the-end-of” (BBE) date. The lifespan is usually shown using the “egg timer” symbol followed by the date or with words abbreviated as BBE or Exp, followed by the date. Very few products are labeled with BBE dates because most are known to last more than 30 months.

Some products do not require any of these because the product will not deteriorate during normal use. Examples are aerosols, which are effectively sealed; perfumes with high alcohol content; or single-use packs.

Consumers should be aware that expiration dates are “rules of thumb.” Like food, product quality may decline before the expiration date without proper storage. Products that have been improperly stored (e.g., exposed to high temperatures or sunlight or opened and examined by consumers before final sale) may deteriorate substantially before the shelf life or expiration date.

Source: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/

What Is Systemic Exposure Dose?

Systemic Exposure Dose (SED) is the estimated amount of a cosmetic ingredient that becomes available to the systemic circulation following exposure to a cosmetic product.

SED is expressed in mg/kg body weight/day and is used in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients to estimate the level of systemic exposure resulting from their intended use.

Unlike the amount of an ingredient initially applied to the skin, SED takes into consideration factors such as the amount of product used, concentration of the ingredient, frequency of use and the proportion of the ingredient that is absorbed.

How Is SED Calculated?

The calculation of SED depends on the exposure scenario and the available absorption data.

A simplified approach can be expressed as:

SED = E × C × F × DA / BW

Where:

• E = amount of cosmetic product applied per day
• C = concentration of the ingredient in the product
• F = frequency or exposure factor
• DA = dermal absorption fraction
• BW = body weight

The specific calculation can vary depending on the exposure route and the methodology used in the safety assessment.

Dermal Absorption and SED

For topical cosmetic products, dermal absorption is an important factor in determining systemic exposure.

Not all of the ingredient applied to the skin necessarily reaches the systemic circulation. The proportion that becomes systemically available depends on the physicochemical characteristics of the ingredient, the formulation, the application site and other exposure-related factors.

When reliable experimental absorption data are available, they can be used in the SED calculation. Where appropriate data are not available, conservative assumptions may be applied as part of the safety assessment.

SED in Cosmetic Safety Assessment

SED is particularly important when evaluating ingredients for which systemic toxicity is a potential concern.

The estimated systemic exposure can be compared with a No Observed Adverse Effect Level (NOAEL) derived from relevant toxicological studies.

This comparison is used to calculate the Margin of Safety (MoS).

A simplified expression is:

MoS = NOAEL / SED

A sufficiently large margin of safety provides support for the conclusion that the expected cosmetic exposure is adequately below the level associated with adverse effects in the relevant toxicological data.

Factors That Influence SED

Several factors can significantly affect the estimated systemic exposure:

Concentration of the Ingredient

A higher concentration of an ingredient in the finished cosmetic product generally results in a higher potential exposure.

Amount of Product Used

The quantity of cosmetic product applied during each use directly influences exposure.

Frequency of Application

Products used several times per day or across large areas of the body can result in greater cumulative exposure.

Dermal Absorption

The percentage of the ingredient that penetrates the skin and becomes systemically available is a key parameter in SED calculation.

Body Weight

SED is normalised to body weight, allowing exposure to be expressed in a standardised form.

Why Is SED Important?

SED provides a quantitative link between cosmetic product use and toxicological safety data.

It allows the safety assessor to move beyond simply considering the concentration of an ingredient in a formulation and instead estimate the actual systemic exposure that may result from normal or reasonably foreseeable use.

For this reason, SED is an important component of professional cosmetic safety assessment and the overall evaluation of cosmetic ingredient safety.

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Source: SCCS Notes of guidance for the testing of cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation

A type of surfactant used to disperse an insoluble chemical, like a fragrance oil, in a product.

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What Is Cosmetic Stability Testing?

Stability testing is the process of evaluating whether a cosmetic product maintains its intended quality, safety, functionality and aesthetic characteristics throughout its expected shelf life.

The purpose of stability testing is to determine how a formulation behaves over time when exposed to different environmental conditions. Testing can identify changes that may affect the product's appearance, texture, colour, odour, chemical composition, microbiological quality or overall performance.

Stability testing is particularly important when developing a new cosmetic product or modifying an existing formulation, as even relatively small changes to the formula, manufacturing process or packaging can influence long-term stability.

Why Is Stability Testing Important?

Maintaining Product Quality

A cosmetic product should continue to meet its intended quality specifications throughout its expected period of use. Stability testing helps identify whether properties such as appearance, colour, texture, viscosity, pH and odour remain within acceptable limits over time.

Supporting Product Safety

Changes in a formulation can potentially affect its microbiological quality or the stability of individual ingredients. Stability testing helps identify potential problems before a product reaches the market.

Determining Shelf Life

The results of stability testing contribute to determining how long a cosmetic product can be expected to remain within its specified quality parameters under appropriate storage conditions.

Evaluating Formulation Performance

Stability testing can also reveal whether a formulation remains functional over time. For example, an emulsion may separate, a product may change viscosity, or an active ingredient may degrade.

Types of Stability Testing

The specific stability program depends on the type of cosmetic product, its formulation, packaging and intended market. A stability study may include several different types of testing.

Physical Stability Testing

Physical stability testing evaluates changes in the observable and measurable physical characteristics of a product.

Typical parameters can include appearance, colour, odour, texture, viscosity, pH and phase separation. For emulsions, for example, stability testing can help identify signs of creaming, flocculation, coalescence or complete separation.

Chemical Stability Testing

Chemical stability testing evaluates whether the chemical composition of the formulation remains within the required specifications over time.

This can include monitoring the concentration or degradation of relevant ingredients and identifying changes that could affect product performance or quality.

Microbiological Stability Testing

Microbiological testing evaluates whether the product remains within appropriate microbiological quality limits during storage.

This is particularly important for formulations containing water or other components that may support microbial growth. The preservation system and the formulation as a whole need to be considered when evaluating microbiological stability.

Stability Testing Conditions

Cosmetic products can be exposed to different environmental conditions during storage, transportation and use. Stability programs therefore commonly evaluate products under controlled conditions that can accelerate or reveal potential changes.

Temperature

Temperature can significantly affect the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation. Products may therefore be exposed to different temperatures to evaluate their behaviour under both normal and stress conditions.

Humidity

Humidity can be relevant to certain formulations and packaging systems, particularly where moisture exposure can influence the product or its packaging.

Light Exposure

Light can contribute to the degradation of certain ingredients, fragrances or colourants. Light exposure may therefore be considered when evaluating products that contain light-sensitive components.

Freeze-Thaw Conditions

Products may also be exposed to repeated freezing and thawing cycles. This can be particularly useful for evaluating emulsions and other formulations that may be sensitive to temperature fluctuations during transportation or storage.

Stability Testing for Different Cosmetic Products

Emulsions

Creams, lotions and other emulsions require particular attention to physical stability. Testing can help determine whether the oil and water phases remain properly dispersed and whether changes in viscosity, appearance or texture occur over time.

Serums and Gel Formulations

Serums and gels can be evaluated for changes in viscosity, clarity, colour, pH and active ingredient stability, depending on the formulation.

Anhydrous Products

Oil-based and other anhydrous formulations may have different stability considerations, including oxidation, changes in odour, colour and texture, and the stability of sensitive ingredients.

Cleansing Products

Shampoos, shower gels and other surfactant-based products can be evaluated for changes in viscosity, appearance, colour, odour, pH and microbiological quality.

Stability Testing and Packaging

Formula and Packaging Compatibility

The stability of a cosmetic product is not determined by the formulation alone. The packaging can also influence the product's long-term performance.

Interactions between the formulation and packaging materials can potentially affect the product's appearance, composition or functionality. Packaging compatibility should therefore be considered as part of the stability development process.

Packaging Protection

Packaging can also protect a formulation from external factors such as light, oxygen and moisture. The choice of container, closure and dispensing system can therefore contribute to the overall stability of the finished product.

Designing a Stability Testing Program

Because cosmetic products vary significantly in their formulations and intended uses, there is no single stability testing program that is appropriate for every product.

The testing program should be designed according to the characteristics of the formulation, the packaging, the intended storage conditions and the expected product life. A reasonable and efficient stability program should provide sufficient information to identify relevant changes without making the development process unnecessarily disproportionate.

The original A&T Formulation content references the Guidelines on Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products published by COLIPA, which similarly emphasise that manufacturers should design stability programs appropriate to their individual products and activities.

Stability Testing and Shelf Life

Stability testing results are used together with other relevant product information to support decisions regarding the expected shelf life and appropriate storage conditions of a cosmetic product.

The objective is to establish that the product continues to meet its defined quality specifications for the period in which it is expected to remain on the market and in use.

Stability testing is therefore an important part of cosmetic product development rather than simply a final quality-control step. It can also help identify formulation or packaging problems early enough to allow the product to be improved before commercial production.

References

Source: Guidelines on Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products – COLIPA.

In the development of cosmetic products, it is crucial to introduce the laboratory sample into production settings to ensure its safe and consistent manufacturing. This process involves the scale-up phase, where progressively larger batch sizes are employed during pilot productions. This ensures that the final product replicates the characteristics of the sample created during product development.

Scaling up can be done by increasing the size tenfold or up to twenty times. For instance, if a 100-gram sample is produced, the next step would be a one-kilogram sample, followed by a 10-20 kg batch, and finally, the final production size.

Pilot productions are also necessary to mitigate risks. If a sample fails to yield the same results as the previous one, production can be repeated to ensure consistent quality. This risk reduction is achieved by identifying and rectifying issues early on in the process.

During the scale-up process, the physical parameters and stability of the sample must be thoroughly examined.

Scaling up is most efficient when different sized equipment utilizes the same technology.

Measurement uncertainty can also introduce variability into the final product. With small batches, even highly precise scales can yield significant deviations. This variability can be eliminated through the scale-up process.

Upon completion of the scale-up process, the final batch size, production documentation, and physical parameters are established. This allows for the product's introduction into mass production and the evaluation of manufacturing quality.

Additional Points:

The scale-up process should be documented in detail to ensure consistency and reproducibility.
Analytical testing should be conducted throughout the scale-up process to monitor product quality.
Any deviations from the expected results should be investigated and resolved promptly.
A well-defined scale-up process is essential for ensuring the successful transition of cosmetic products from lab to market.

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A schedule is a model for executing the project’s activities, including durations, dependencies, and other planning information. Schedule planning can use predictive or adaptive approaches.

Predictive approaches follow a stepwise process as follows:

▶ Step 1. Decompose the project scope into specific activities.
▶ Step 2. Sequence related activities.
▶ Step 3. Estimate the effort, duration, people, and physical resources required to complete the activities.
▶ Step 4. Allocate people and resources to the activities based on availability.
▶ Step 5. Adjust the sequence, estimates, and resources until an agreed-upon schedule is achieved.

If the schedule model does not meet the initial desired end date, schedule compression methods are applied.

The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition

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Saponins are glycoside compounds that are often referred to as natural detergents because of their ability to form foaming solutions in water. The majority of naturally occurring saponins are of the triterpenoidal type, with the steroidal based saponins forming a much smaller class. The steroidal saponins are based on a backbone of a (C30) triterpenoid saponin nucleus attached via C3 and an ether bond to a sugar side chain, whereas the steroidal are based on a choline (C27) steroid backbone. The aglycone of the triterpenoidal derivative is known as a sapogenin, whereas the steroidal aglycone derivatives are known as saraponins.

The non-saccharide portion (aglycone) of the saponin molecule is called the “genin” or “sapogenin”. Saponins are divided into three main classes depending on the type of sapogenin present:

• Triterpene glycosides - there are over more than 350 sapogenins and more than 750 triterpene glycosides in the triterpene glycoside class.
• Steroid glycosides  
• Steroid alkaloid glycosides  

The ability of a saponin to foam is caused by the combination of the non-polar sapogenin and the water-soluble side chain present on the molecule. The foams tend to be stable and have been used in fire extinguishers as the foaming agent. They are also used to produce foam in beer and are responsible for the natural foam in root beer. They have been used as the foaming agent in toothpaste and are employed by local people where the plants occur as a shampoo and laundry detergent.

Typical soap plants include Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), Soapbark (Quillaia saponaria), Soaproot (Chlorogalum pomeridianum) and Soapnut (Sapindus spp).

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1)

Rosmarinus Officinalis Water is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis L., Lamiaceae. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Powder, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Water and Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Water are ingredients made from the herb, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinals). When the ingredient name does not include a plant part, it means that the ingredient is made from the whole plant, rather than a specific plant part. In cosmetics and personal care products, Rosemary-derived ingredients are used in the formulation of a wide variety of product types, including shampoos, shaving products, skin care products, suntan products, bath products, makeup, cleansing products, hair conditioners, permanent waves, shampoos and personal cleanliness products. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) on its list of spices and other natural seasonings and flavorings considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Botanical and botanically-derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics and personal care products..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Rosa Damascena Flower Extract is an extract of the flowers of the Damask Rose, Rosa damascena, Rosaceae. Rosa damascena, called rose otto or attar of roses, is made by picking new blooms early in the morning before the oil and scent dissipates in the sun. Oil is extracted when the petals are steamed. Attar of roses has been used in cosmetics, lotions, and perfumes around the world for centuries, and the flowers can also provide a hint of colour in emollients. Rosa damascena sometimes called the Rose of Castile, is a rose hybrid, derived from Rosa gallica and Rosa moschata. DNA analysis has shown that a third species, Rosa fedtschenkoana, is associated with the Damask rose. The Damask rose is commonly used to flavor food and to make rose water. Rose extract and rose oil have a host of beneficial affects on the skin and are great for promoting a youthful complexion with good tone, elasticity and an even colored complexion. Toxicity class D acute oral, Dermal Irritation class C, Dermal sensitisation class D (2%). Rated safe during pregnancy, Mucous Membrane C-D (non-irritant). Not in the warning list for pregnancy.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

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The term rheology describes the flow characteristics of liquids and the deformation of solids. Viscosity is an expression of the resistance of a fluid to flow. Rheological properties are crucial for liquid and semiliquid cosmetic formulations because they determine the product’s properties meaningful in mixing and flow when produced, filled into containers and removed before use, as well as sensory properties when applied, such as consistency, spreadability, and smoothness.

Furthermore, the rheology of a product may also affect the physical stability and the biological availability of the product. Regarding rheological characteristics, there are two main types of systems: Newtonian and non-Newtonian.

The former show constant viscosity when stressed, i.e., the rate of shear (flow velocity) is directly proportional to the shearing stress, e.g., water, mineral oil, etc. In non-Newtonian systems (most cosmetic products), however, viscosity changes with varying stress, i.e., viscosity depends on the degree of shearing stress, resulting either in plastic, pseudoplastic, or dilatant flow or in thixothropy, characteristics that are not discussed in depth here although they are of practical significance. An ideal topical product, e.g., shows optimal thixotropic properties; it does not flow out of a tube’s orifice unless slightly pressed, and when on the skin it does not immediately flow and drop off unless easily spread over the application area, where under a certain stress it becomes more fluid because of the thixotropy. The rheological properties of semisolid products are determined first for general characterization in the development phase and second for quality-control reasons after manufacturing. There are various instrumental methods used to measure rheology or viscosity. Today, apparatus based on rotation or oscillation are commonly used for non-Newtonian systems.

In order to adjust the rheology of products, various means and excipients are available. If the viscosity has to be increased, addition of viscosity increasing agents is needed. Addition or increase in concentration of electrolytes may influence viscosity. Many systems, e.g., polyacrylates, are sensitive to the presence of ions and the viscosity is reduced. In particular, emulsions are susceptible to rheological issues. Various factors determine the rheological properties of emulsions, such as viscosity of internal and external phases, phase volume ratio, particle size distribution, type and concentration of emulsifying system, and viscosity-modifying agents.

It is important to realize that small changes in concentrations or ratio of certain ingredients may result in drastic changes of the rheological characteristics. Emulsified products may undergo a wide variety of shear stresses during either preparation or use. Thus, an emulsion formulation should be robust enough to resist external factors that could modify its rheological properties or the product should be designed so that change in rheology results in a desired effect.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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