What Is Charcoal Powder?

Charcoal powder is a dried, carbonaceous material produced by heating organic substances. In cosmetic applications, finely powdered carbon is used primarily for its absorbent and opacifying properties.

Cosmetic Uses of Charcoal Powder

Charcoal powder can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations where its ability to adsorb substances is beneficial. It is commonly associated with cleansing products and formulations intended for skin that appears oily or congested.

Its powder form can also provide a mild abrasive effect, making it suitable for certain exfoliating products. Depending on particle size and concentration, it may be incorporated into facial cleansers, masks, scrubs and other rinse-off formulations.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Charcoal Powder
CAS: 8021-96-6
EINECS/EC: Not specified
Functions: Abrasive, Absorbent, Opacifying

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Are Phospholipids?

Phospholipids are a class of lipids and a major structural component of cell membranes. They can form lipid bilayers and typically contain a diglyceride, a phosphate group and an organic molecule such as choline.

Cosmetic Uses of Phospholipids

In cosmetic formulations, phospholipids are used primarily for skin conditioning. Their amphiphilic structure also allows them to interact with both oil and water phases, making them useful as emulsifying ingredients.

Phospholipids can help disperse or solubilise oils in water-based systems and are therefore used in a range of skin care formulations where both conditioning and formulation stability are important.

Ingredient Information

Ingredient: Phospholipids
CAS: 123465-35-0
EINECS/EC: Not specified
Function: Skin Conditioning

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Are Peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids derived from proteins. In cosmetic skin care, they are used for their ability to interact with the skin and support conditioning and moisture retention.

Peptides have also been investigated as cell-signalling ingredients, with research and cosmetic applications focusing on their potential role in supporting collagen-related processes and improving the appearance of skin.

Peptides in Skin Care

Peptides are commonly incorporated into facial creams, serums and other products designed for mature or dry skin. Their water-binding properties can help support skin hydration and maintain a smoother skin surface.

Traditional peptide ingredients have presented formulation challenges because peptides can be susceptible to degradation by enzymes. Advances in cosmetic technology have led to the development of synthetic peptides, including hexapeptides, pentapeptides and polypeptides, designed for improved stability and targeted cosmetic functions.

Some advanced peptide systems are also designed to act as carriers for other molecules, although their performance depends strongly on the specific peptide, formulation and delivery system.

Ingredient Information

Ingredient Type: Protein-derived cosmetic ingredient
Common Types: Hexapeptides, pentapeptides, polypeptides
Primary Cosmetic Functions: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

CAS / EINECS/EC: Not specified for peptides as a general ingredient category.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin and antioxidant widely used in cosmetic skin care. It is valued for its ability to help neutralise free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress associated with environmental and solar exposure.

Cosmetic Uses of Vitamin C

Vitamin C is primarily used in skin care products formulated for antioxidant protection and skin conditioning. It can be incorporated into facial creams, serums, lotions and other leave-on products.

As an antioxidant, vitamin C helps protect cosmetic formulations and the skin from oxidative processes caused by free radicals. It is therefore commonly associated with products designed for environmental protection and the care of skin exposed to external stressors.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Ascorbic Acid
CAS: 50-81-7
Functions: Antioxidant, Buffering, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Cranberry Seed Oil?

Cranberry seed oil is obtained by cold pressing the seeds of Vaccinium macrocarpon, the cranberry. It is a lightweight plant oil valued for its nourishing and moisturising properties without leaving a particularly greasy skin feel.

The oil is rich in tocotrienols, members of the vitamin E family, as well as omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9 fatty acids.

Cosmetic Uses

Cranberry seed oil is primarily used as a skin-conditioning ingredient. Its combination of essential fatty acids and antioxidant compounds makes it suitable for formulations focused on nourishing and moisturising the skin.

It can be incorporated into:

• Facial creams and lotions
• Moisturising products
• Anti-ageing formulations
• Skin-conditioning oils
• Products for dry or mature-looking skin

Fatty Acids and Tocotrienols

Cranberry seed oil provides omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9 fatty acids. The oil is also particularly rich in tocotrienols, which are naturally occurring forms of vitamin E with antioxidant properties.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
CAS: 91770-88-6
Function: Skin Conditioning

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Propolis Wax?

Propolis Cera is the waxy component of the resinous material found in beehives. Bees produce propolis and use it as a construction and repair material within the hive.

Propolis helps protect the hive and its contents from microorganisms and contains a complex mixture of naturally occurring compounds, particularly flavonoids.

Cosmetic Uses

Propolis wax is used in cosmetic formulations for its moisturising, smoothing, and antiseborrhoeic properties. It can be incorporated into skin-care products where a conditioning and smoothing effect is desired.

Its bee-derived origin also makes it relevant to formulations based on natural or traditionally used cosmetic ingredients.

Traditional and Functional Properties

Propolis has been extensively studied for its antimicrobial properties and has a long history of use in traditional and alternative medicine.

These traditional and research-based properties should not be interpreted as cosmetic treatment claims.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Propolis Cera
CAS: 85665-41-4
Functions: Antiseborrhoeic, Moisturising, Smoothing

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Calendula?

Calendula, commonly known as marigold, is derived from Calendula officinalis. The plant has a long history of traditional use in herbal preparations and skin care.

Calendula oil contains the lipophilic constituents and characteristic aromas of calendula flowers in a vegetable oil medium. This makes it suitable for incorporating calendula-derived properties into oil-based cosmetic formulations.

Cosmetic Uses

Calendula is primarily used as an emollient and skin-protecting ingredient. It is particularly suitable for formulations designed for dry, scaly, stressed, or sensitive skin.

It can be incorporated into:

• Sensitive-skin creams
• Baby-care products
• Protective skin-care formulations
• Dry-skin creams and balms
• Body-care products
• Calendula-based oils and lotions

Traditional Use

Calendula has been used for centuries in European and traditional herbal practices. Historical records describe its use by the Romans, Greeks, ancient Egyptians, Arabs, and Hindus.

In the 16th century, marigold was a common garden plant valued by herbalists. The dried flowers were also traditionally used in broths, teas, and as a natural colourant for cheese.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Calendula Officinalis Extract
CAS: 84776-23-8
Function: Emollient

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

Cosmetic Uses

Oat extract, derived from Avena sativa, has been valued for centuries for its soothing and absorbent properties. These characteristics make it particularly suitable for cosmetic products formulated for sensitive, redness-prone, or irritated-looking skin.

Oat-derived ingredients can also help absorb excess oil and contribute to a smoother, more comfortable skin feel.

Applications in Cosmetic Formulations

Oat extract can be incorporated into a wide range of personal-care products, including:

• Body-care products
• Face masks
• Hand creams
• Moisturisers
• Soaps
• Suncare products

Ingredient Information

INCI: Avena Sativa Extract
Botanical source: Avena sativa (oat)
Functions: Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Controlling

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

Cosmetic Uses

Cucumis Sativus Fruit, commonly known as cucumber, has been used in skin care for its cooling, soothing, smoothing, and refreshing properties. It is particularly associated with formulations designed to provide comfort to delicate or stressed-looking skin.

Cucumber fruit is used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, including:

• After-sun products
• Body lotions
• Eye pads
• Skin fresheners
• Moisturisers
• Products for oily skin
• Skin-tightening formulations

Skin-Conditioning Properties

Cucumber is valued for its pleasant cooling and refreshing effect on the skin. It can be used in formulations intended to provide a soothing sensory experience while helping to leave the skin feeling smooth and conditioned.

Its long history of use in skin care has made cucumber a popular botanical ingredient, particularly in products positioned around calming, hydrating, and refreshing skin care.

Cucumber is also a common food ingredient and is generally considered unlikely to cause a reaction when used topically.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Cucumis Sativus Fruit
CAS: 8024-36-0
Function: Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Avocado Oil?

Avocado oil, also known as Persea Gratissima Oil, is a plant-derived oil obtained from the avocado. It contains triglycerides, natural sterols, tocopherols, and other minor components that contribute to its cosmetic properties.

It is described as a relatively light, fast-penetrating oil and has been reported to be absorbed more rapidly by the skin than several other common vegetable oils, including corn, soybean, almond, and olive oils.

Cosmetic Uses

Avocado oil is primarily used as an emollient. It helps soften and condition the skin and is particularly suitable for formulations intended for dry, rough, or dull-looking skin.

It can be incorporated into:

• Facial creams and lotions
• Body-care products
• Moisturising formulations
• Dry-skin products
• Skin-conditioning oils and balms

Its natural sterol and tocopherol content also makes it a useful botanical ingredient in formulations focused on nourishing and conditioning the skin.

Composition

• β-Sitosterol
• Campesterol
• Stigmasterol
• Brassicasterol
• Δ5-Avenasterol

It also contains tocopherols and other unidentified sterol components.

Safety

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel assessed the available safety data and concluded that Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil is safe for use as used in cosmetics and personal-care products. The conclusion was reaffirmed during the CIR's 2001 re-evaluation.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Persea Gratissima Oil
CAS: 8024-32-6
Function: Emollient

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Acai Berry Oil?

Acai berry oil is derived from the fruit of Euterpe oleracea, a palm species native to South America. The acai fruit is round, reddish-purple, and approximately 1–2 cm in diameter. Its seeds account for around 80% of the fruit.

Acai is widely known as a dark-purple berry with a flavour often described as a combination of berry and chocolate. A variety of acai-derived products are available, including juices, powders, and extracts.

Cosmetic Uses

In cosmetic formulations, acai berry oil is primarily used as a skin-conditioning and occlusive ingredient. As an occlusive, it can contribute to the formation of a protective layer on the skin surface, helping to reduce moisture loss.

It can therefore be considered for:

• Skin-conditioning creams and lotions
• Moisturising formulations
• Facial skin-care products
• Body-care products
• Products for dry skin

Antioxidant Properties

Research on acai fruit has focused particularly on its antioxidant properties. In vitro studies have also investigated antiproliferative and anti-inflammatory activity, which may be associated with its antioxidant constituents.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
CAS: 861902-11-6
Function: Skin Conditioning Agent – Occlusive

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Lavender Oil?

Lavender oil is an essential oil obtained from Lavandula angustifolia. It is widely used in cosmetic and personal-care products because of its characteristic floral aroma and refreshing sensory properties.

Cosmetic Uses

Lavender oil is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient, while also providing tonic, refreshing, cleansing, deodorising, and masking functions.

It can be incorporated into:

• Fragrances and perfumes
• Skin-care products
• Cleansing formulations
• Deodorant products
• Refreshing personal-care products
• Aromatic cosmetic preparations

The source literature also describes traditional uses of lavender oil for burns, wounds, acne, insect bites, bruises, fatigue, and other conditions. These traditional or therapeutic applications should not be interpreted as cosmetic treatment claims.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
CAS: 8000-28-0
Functions: Fragrance Ingredient, Tonic, Refreshing, Cleansing, Deodorant, Masking

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Ginseng Root Extract?

Ginseng root extract is derived from Panax ginseng, a plant with a long history of traditional use in Asian medicine. The name Panax comes from the Greek word panakos, meaning “a panacea,” reflecting the broad traditional reputation of ginseng.

Ginseng has also been used traditionally as a general tonic, particularly in preparations intended to support vitality and reduce the appearance of tiredness. These traditional uses should not be interpreted as cosmetic treatment claims.

Cosmetic Uses

In cosmetic formulations, ginseng root extract is primarily used for its skin-conditioning, skin-protecting, hair-conditioning, and tonic properties.

It can be incorporated into:

• Facial skin-care products
• Body-care formulations
• Tonic and revitalising products
• Hair-care products
• Scalp-care formulations
• Products for mature-looking or tired-looking skin

Its botanical origin and traditional reputation also make it a popular ingredient in formulations positioned around natural and botanical skin care.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Panax Ginseng Root Extract
CAS: 84650-12-4
Functions: Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Curcumin?

Curcumin is the principal colouring component obtained from the dried rhizomes of Curcuma longa, commonly known as turmeric. The dried rhizome is ground and extracted with a suitable solvent to selectively remove its colouring compounds.

The resulting extract can be further purified to produce curcumin powder containing more than 90% colouring matter, with very little volatile oil and other naturally occurring dry matter.

The characteristic yellow colour of turmeric is produced by curcuminoids, which were first isolated from turmeric in 1842.

Cosmetic Uses

Curcumin is primarily associated with its colouring and antioxidant properties. Its characteristic yellow-orange colour makes turmeric-derived ingredients of interest in formulations where a natural botanical colour is desired.

Curcumin and turmeric preparations have also been traditionally used in skin care in several cultures.

Curcumin's antioxidant properties also make it relevant to formulations designed around antioxidant-focused skin care.

Formulation Considerations

Curcumin is obtained through solvent extraction and purification of turmeric rhizomes. The composition of turmeric-derived raw materials can therefore vary depending on the extraction and purification process.

When used in cosmetic formulations, the desired colour intensity, raw material purity, stability, and compatibility with the formulation should be considered.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Curcumin
CAS: 458-37-7
Function: Antioxidant

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Honey?

Honey is a natural substance produced by bees from plant nectar. It has been used for centuries both as a food and in traditional topical preparations.

Honey is particularly suitable for cosmetic applications because it attracts and retains moisture, giving it humectant and moisturising properties. It can help leave the skin feeling softer and more comfortable.

Cosmetic Uses

Honey is primarily used in cosmetics as an emollient and humectant. Its moisture-attracting properties make it suitable for formulations designed for dry, rough, or chapped skin.

It can be incorporated into:

• Moisturising creams and lotions
• Hand creams
• Body-care products
• Facial skin-care formulations
• Soothing and conditioning products
• Products for dry or chapped skin

Honey has also traditionally been used in preparations for sores, wounds, burns, and other skin conditions. These historical and medical applications should not be interpreted as cosmetic treatment claims.

Composition

In addition to water and naturally occurring sugars, honey can contain varying amounts of beeswax. Its primary sugars are naturally occurring food components.

Historical Use

Honey has a very long history of topical use. Ancient Egyptian medical texts dating from approximately 2600–2200 BC mention honey in numerous remedies. Various cultures subsequently used it in traditional preparations for wounds and skin conditions.

These historical uses help explain the continued interest in honey as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly in products intended to provide moisturising and conditioning benefits.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Honey
CAS: 8028-66-8
EINECS/EC: Not specified in the original source
Functions: Emollient, Humectant, Moisturising

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Tea Tree Oil?

Tea tree oil is obtained from Melaleuca alternifolia, a plant native to Australia. The plant has a long history of traditional topical use for skin-related applications.

Tea tree oil is more commonly used in cosmetics than the corresponding extract and is valued primarily for its skin-conditioning and antimicrobial properties.

Cosmetic Uses

Tea tree oil has been extensively studied for its potential cosmetic applications. It is commonly incorporated into formulations intended for:

• Blemish-prone skin
• Cleansing and skin-conditioning products
• Scalp and hair-care products
• Anti-dandruff preparations
• Products with antimicrobial properties
• Insect-repellent formulations

Historical Use

Tea tree was described in detail during the expeditions of Captain James Cook in the late 1700s. The plant subsequently became well known for traditional applications involving skin ailments, cuts, and burns.

During World War II, tea tree preparations were also used as topical antiseptics before being replaced by more effective antimicrobial agents.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
CAS: 85085-48-9
Functions: Skin Conditioning, Antimicrobial

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Argan Oil?

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, commonly known as argan oil, is the fixed oil expressed from the kernels of the Argania spinosa tree, which originates from Morocco.

Argan oil is rich in natural sterols and has a long history of traditional use in Moroccan skin care. It is valued for its emollient properties and its ability to leave the skin feeling soft, smooth, and conditioned.

Cosmetic Uses

Argan oil is widely used in cosmetic formulations, particularly in products designed for skin conditioning, moisturising, and anti-ageing care.

It can be incorporated into:

• Facial creams and lotions
• Anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle products
• Body-care formulations
• Make-up products
• Skin-conditioning oils and treatments

The oil helps soften the skin and supports the maintenance of skin hydration, making it suitable for formulations intended to improve the feel and appearance of dry or mature skin.

Traditional Use

Argan oil has been used traditionally in Morocco for centuries. Local women have traditionally used the oil to help keep the skin soft, smooth, and protected.

Argan oil and preparations containing argan oil have also been used in traditional Moroccan medicine for skin-related conditions. These historical uses should not be interpreted as cosmetic treatment claims.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
CAS: 223747-87-3
Function: Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Jojoba Seed Oil?

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is obtained from the seeds of the jojoba plant. Despite being commonly referred to as an oil, jojoba is chemically a liquid wax. It combines some of the protective characteristics associated with waxes with the light, soft skin feel of an oil.

Jojoba is also notable for its compatibility with the skin's natural surface lipids and its ability to provide a smooth, non-heavy sensory profile.

Cosmetic Uses in Skin Care

Jojoba oil is primarily used as an emollient and skin protectant. It helps soften the skin and can be incorporated into formulations designed for dry, rough, or environmentally stressed skin.

It is commonly used in:

• Facial moisturisers and creams
• Body lotions and creams
• Balms and protective formulations
• Products for dry skin
• Skin-conditioning products

Jojoba oil is also a good solvent for sebum and can be used in formulations intended to complement the skin's natural moisturising properties.

Cosmetic Uses in Hair Care

Jojoba oil has extensive applications in hair care and has traditionally been used as a hair conditioner and restorative ingredient. It can be incorporated into conditioners, hair treatments, oils, and other products designed to improve the feel and manageability of the hair.

Safety

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed the safety of jojoba oil and several related jojoba-derived ingredients. Based on the available information, the panel concluded that these ingredients are safe for use as cosmetic ingredients.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
CAS: 61789-91-1
Function: Emollient

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Shea Butter?

Shea butter is a natural vegetable butter obtained from the nuts of the shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii). Its cosmetic properties are similar in some respects to cocoa butter, but it has a milder characteristic odour rather than the chocolate-like aroma associated with cocoa butter.

Cosmetic Uses

Shea butter is primarily used as a rich emollient in skin-care formulations. It helps leave the skin feeling soft, smooth, and supple and is particularly suitable for products intended for dry or rough skin.

It can be incorporated into:

• Face and body creams
• Body butters
• Hand creams
• Balms and ointments
• Dry-skin formulations
• Protective skin-care products

Shea butter has traditionally been used by communities that collect and process it for skin care and wound-related applications.

Sensory and Formulation Properties

One of the useful characteristics of shea butter is its melting behaviour. It melts at approximately body temperature and can therefore spread easily during application.

After application, it is absorbed relatively quickly and leaves the skin with a soft and supple feel. This makes shea butter particularly useful when developing richer formulations that require both emolliency and a pleasant application profile.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
CAS: 91080-23-8
Function: Emollient

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Aloe Barbadensis Gel?

Aloe Barbadensis Gel, commonly known as Aloe Vera Gel, is obtained from the inner parenchymal gel of the leaves of Aloe barbadensis. The gel is carefully separated from the leaf to obtain the clear inner material.

Aloe vera has a long history of use in skin-care preparations and is valued for its pleasant, cooling and soothing sensory properties.

Cosmetic Uses

Aloe vera gel is commonly incorporated into formulations designed to provide skin conditioning and moisturising benefits. Its light texture makes it suitable for a wide range of cosmetic products, particularly those intended to leave the skin feeling refreshed and comfortable.

Typical applications include:

• Facial moisturisers and gels
• After-sun products
• Body-care products
• Soothing skin-care formulations
• Hydrating gels
• Products for dry or stressed-looking skin

Formulation Considerations

Aloe vera gel is particularly suitable for water-based and gel formulations, where its natural origin and refreshing sensory profile can complement other moisturising and skin-conditioning ingredients.

When developing a formulation containing aloe vera, the quality and processing of the raw material should be considered, as commercial aloe ingredients can differ considerably in concentration, processing method, and composition.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice / Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, depending on the specific raw material
Function: Emollient

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Whey?

Whey is the water-dispersible portion of milk separated from the curd during cheese production. It is the liquid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained and is therefore a natural by-product of cheese or casein manufacture.

Two main types are commonly distinguished:

• Sweet whey, produced during the manufacture of rennet-type hard cheeses such as cheddar and Swiss cheese.
• Acid whey, also known as sour whey, obtained during the production of acid cheeses such as cottage cheese.

Composition of Whey

Liquid whey contains lactose, proteins, vitamins, and minerals, together with small amounts of fat. Dried whey is particularly rich in lactose and commonly contains more than 70% lactose.

Its composition makes whey a naturally derived ingredient that can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations where a milk-derived ingredient and skin-conditioning properties are desired.

Cosmetic Applications

In cosmetics, whey is primarily used as a skin-conditioning ingredient. It can be incorporated into formulations where the sensory and conditioning properties of milk-derived ingredients are desirable.

Because whey naturally contains lactose and milk proteins, the source material and its suitability for the intended formulation should be considered during product development.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Whey
CAS: 92129-90-3
EINECS/EC: Not specified in the original source
Function: Skin Conditioning

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Lactose?

Lactose is a disaccharide sugar found naturally in milk. It consists of two simple sugars, galactose and glucose, and has the molecular formula C₁₂H₂₂O₁₁.

The lactose content of milk varies between species and individuals and generally represents approximately 2–8% of milk by weight. Commercial lactose is commonly obtained from sweet or sour whey.

The name originates from lac, the Latin word for milk, combined with the -ose suffix commonly used for sugars.

Cosmetic Uses

In cosmetic formulations, lactose functions primarily as a humectant and skin-conditioning ingredient. Its use is associated with helping maintain moisture and supporting a pleasant skin feel.

It can therefore be incorporated into formulations where moisturising and skin-conditioning properties are desired.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Lactose
CAS: 63-42-3
EINECS/EC: Not specified on the original A&T source
Functions: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Source

Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

Cosmetic Uses

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil is obtained from Cedrus atlantica, commonly known as Atlas Cedar or Cedarwood. The source identifies the wood as the plant part used and France as the country of origin.

The oil has a characteristic soothing, woody aroma and has a long history of use in perfumery, where it can function as a fragrance ingredient and fixative.

Its aromatic profile makes it suitable for formulations where a woody, calming fragrance is desired, including perfumes and other fragranced personal-care products.

Skin and Scalp Care

Traditionally, cedarwood oil has been associated with formulations for oily skin and itchy scalp. The source also describes traditional uses related to acne, eczema, arthritis, and rheumatism. These traditional uses should not be interpreted as cosmetic treatment claims.

Cedarwood oil has also been used traditionally for its insect-repellent properties. Its strong woody aroma has historically been used to help deter moths, including in cedar-lined storage and traditional carpet shops.

Cosmetic Applications

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil can be considered in:

• Fragrances and perfumes
• Scented skin-care products
• Hair and scalp-care formulations
• Products designed for oily-feeling skin
• Aromatic personal-care products

Its principal cosmetic function is fragrance.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
Botanical source: Cedrus atlantica
Common name: Atlas Cedar, Cedarwood
Part used: Wood
Country of origin: France
CAS: 8000-27-9
Function: Fragrance Ingredient

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid, also known as 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is a naturally occurring compound found in plants such as wintergreen, willow bark, and sweet birch. It can also be manufactured synthetically.

It belongs to the beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) family and is widely used in cosmetic formulations because of its keratolytic and skin-conditioning properties.

Cosmetic Uses

Salicylic acid is primarily used as a skin exfoliant. Its keratolytic action helps loosen and remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, supporting smoother skin and helping to reduce the accumulation of material within pores.

It is commonly incorporated into:

• Facial exfoliating products
• Cleansers
• Products for blemish-prone skin
• Anti-dandruff shampoos
• Body-care products
• Foot-care products
• Depilatory formulations

It may be used alone or together with other exfoliating acids, depending on the formulation and intended application.

Anti-Dandruff Applications

Salicylic acid is also used in hair and scalp care, particularly in anti-dandruff formulations. Its keratolytic activity helps loosen and remove accumulated scales from the scalp.

Formulation and Safety Considerations

Salicylic acid has antimicrobial and antifungal properties and has therefore also been used as a preservative or preservative-supporting ingredient in some formulations.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that salicylic acid and its salts and esters are safe as used when formulations are designed to minimise skin irritation and avoid unnecessary increases in sun sensitivity. Where increased sun sensitivity may occur, appropriate sun-protection directions should be provided.

The concentration and intended use of salicylic acid are important when formulating cosmetic products, as higher or inappropriate exposure can increase the potential for irritation.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Salicylic Acid
CAS: 69-72-7
Functions: Antidandruff, Hair Conditioning, Keratolytic, Masking, Preservative, Skin Conditioning

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4). Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.

What Is Shelf Life?

Shelf life is the period during which a cosmetic or personal care product is expected to remain suitable for use. The manufacturer is responsible for determining an appropriate shelf life as part of demonstrating the product's safety and quality.

Shelf life depends on factors such as the formulation, packaging, storage conditions, and stability of the ingredients.

Shelf Life and Cosmetic Labelling in Europe

Under European cosmetic legislation, products with a minimum durability of more than 30 months generally do not require a best-before date. Instead, they must indicate the Period After Opening (PAO) where applicable.

The PAO specifies how long the product is considered suitable for use after it has first been opened. It is expressed in months and is normally represented by the open-jar symbol, for example 12M for 12 months.

For products with a durability of 30 months or less, a date of minimum durability must be indicated. This is commonly accompanied by the hourglass symbol or an appropriate "best used before the end of" indication.

Period After Opening (PAO)

PAO relates specifically to the period following the first opening of the product. Once opened, the formulation can be exposed to air, microorganisms, moisture, and repeated consumer handling.

Packaging can therefore have an important influence on the appropriate PAO. Airless packaging, pumps, tubes, and other protective systems may provide different conditions from wide-mouth jars.

Factors Affecting Shelf Life

A cosmetic product can deteriorate before its expected shelf life if it is exposed to unsuitable conditions. Important factors include:

• High temperatures
• Direct sunlight
• Repeated exposure to air
• Microbial contamination
• Packaging interactions
• Oxidation
• Changes in colour, odour, texture, or viscosity

For this reason, products should be stored according to the manufacturer's instructions and protected from unnecessary exposure to heat and sunlight.

Determining Shelf Life

Shelf life is normally established using stability testing and consideration of the product's formulation, packaging, microbiological quality, and intended storage conditions. The results help determine whether the product maintains its required physical, chemical, and microbiological characteristics throughout its expected life.

Some products may be less susceptible to deterioration because of their formulation or packaging. Examples include certain aerosols, high-alcohol perfumes, and single-use products.

Source: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/

What Is INCI?

INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) is a system of internationally recognised names used to identify cosmetic ingredients. The names are developed by the International Nomenclature Committee (INC) and published by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook.

The system is designed to provide consistent and harmonised ingredient names across different markets and regulatory environments.

Why Are INCI Names Used?

A uniform naming system helps avoid confusion when the same ingredient may have several chemical, commercial, or common names.

INCI names support:

• Cosmetic ingredient labelling
• Formulation and technical documentation
• Safety assessment
• Regulatory compliance
• Scientific and technical communication
• Identification of ingredients associated with adverse reactions
• International marketing of cosmetic products

Using a standardised name also makes it easier for manufacturers, scientists, regulators, and consumers to identify the same ingredient across different products and markets.

INCI Names and Cosmetic Labelling

INCI names are particularly important when preparing the ingredient list on a cosmetic product label. The appropriate INCI designation should be used rather than a supplier's commercial name or an informal description of the raw material.

The INCI name identifies the ingredient, but it does not by itself describe the concentration, quality, purity, or source of a particular raw material.

What an INCI Name Does Not Mean

Having an INCI name does not mean that an ingredient has been approved for use in cosmetics.

The assignment of an INCI name does not confirm that an ingredient is safe for every application or that its use complies with the legislation of a particular country or region.

The safety and regulatory status of an ingredient must be evaluated separately according to its intended use, concentration, formulation, and applicable cosmetic regulations.

INCI in Cosmetic Product Development

During product development, the INCI name is normally considered together with other identifiers and documentation, such as the CAS Registry Number, EC Number, raw material specification, Safety Data Sheet, technical documentation, and regulatory status.

This combination of information helps ensure that the correct ingredient is used and correctly documented throughout formulation, safety assessment, and product registration.

Source: https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/

What Is ELINCS?

ELINCS stands for European List of Notified Chemical Substances. It is a European inventory of substances that were notified under Directive 67/548/EEC.

The list relates to substances that were marketed after the period covered by the EINECS inventory and were subsequently notified under the applicable European chemicals legislation.

ELINCS and Chemical Identification

ELINCS was developed as part of the European system for identifying and regulating chemical substances. Substances included in the ELINCS inventory were assigned an EC number, which can be used as an identifier alongside other information such as:

• Chemical name
• CAS Registry Number
• INCI name, where applicable
• EC number
• Supplier and raw material information

These identifiers can be useful when preparing technical, safety, and regulatory documentation for cosmetic ingredients.

ELINCS and EINECS

ELINCS is distinct from EINECS (European Inventory of Existing Commercial Chemical Substances).

EINECS covers substances that were considered to be on the European market during the historical inventory period, while ELINCS covers substances subsequently notified under the relevant notification system.

Today, European chemical substance identification is primarily managed within the framework of REACH and related European chemical inventories.

Relevance to Cosmetics

For cosmetic formulation and regulatory work, an EC number can help establish the identity of a raw material or chemical substance. However, an EC number alone does not determine whether a substance is permitted for a particular cosmetic use.

Cosmetic ingredients must also be assessed according to the applicable cosmetic legislation, restrictions, purity requirements, and other relevant regulatory information.

Source: https://ec.europa.eu/

What Is an EC Number?

An EC Number is a numerical identifier assigned to substances listed in European chemical inventories. The term is commonly associated with the EINECS (European Inventory of Existing Commercial Chemical Substances), which was established to identify substances that were on the European market during the relevant inventory period.

The EINECS inventory was officially published on 15 June 1990 and includes substances that were commercially available in the European Community between 1 January 1971 and 18 September 1981.

EC Numbers in Cosmetic Formulation

EC Numbers are commonly used alongside other substance identifiers when preparing cosmetic formulation and regulatory documentation. Depending on the substance, documentation may include several identifiers, such as:

• INCI name
• Chemical name
• CAS Registry Number
• EC/EINECS Number
• Supplier-specific identification
• Product or raw material specifications

Using these identifiers together helps ensure that the correct substance is being referenced throughout formulation, safety, and regulatory documentation.

EINECS and Other European Inventories

The term EC Number can refer more broadly to identifiers assigned within European chemical inventories. EINECS is one of the historical inventories, while other European inventories were subsequently established for substances introduced or notified under different regulatory frameworks.

For cosmetic formulation work, the relevant EC Number should therefore be checked against the specific substance and the applicable regulatory documentation.

Where Can EC Numbers Be Checked?

EINECS and related European chemical inventories can be searched through official European Union chemical information resources and other recognised databases.

Source: https://ec.europa.eu/