Azelaic Acid – Cosmetic Uses in Blemish-Prone and Uneven-Toned Skin Care

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid, also known as nonanedioic acid, is a naturally occurring saturated dicarboxylic acid found in small amounts in grains such as wheat, rye and barley.

It is widely used in dermatological and cosmetic formulations, particularly products intended for blemish-prone, redness-prone and uneven-toned skin.

Cosmetic Uses of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is commonly incorporated into creams, gels, lotions and other topical skin care formulations. It is associated with antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, keratinization-modulating, antimelanogenic and antioxidant activities.

In cosmetic products, it is mainly used in formulations targeting the appearance of blemishes, uneven skin tone, redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Formulation Considerations

Azelaic acid has relatively low water solubility, which can make formulation challenging. Appropriate dispersion, solvent or solubilisation strategies may be required.

Particle size and dispersion quality are particularly important, as poor dispersion can result in grittiness and an uneven sensory profile. The formulation vehicle, rheology modifiers, emollients, emulsifiers and solvents should be selected according to the intended dosage form.

Ingredient Information

INCI: Azelaic Acid
Other Name: Nonanedioic Acid
CAS: 123-99-9
Chemical Class: Dicarboxylic Acid
Molecular Formula: C9H16O4
Molecular Weight: 188.22 g/mol

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients. Dweck Books.

References:
Feng, X., Shang, J., Gu, Z., Gong, J., Chen, Y., and Liu, Y. “Azelaic Acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2024. DOI: 10.2147/CCID.S485237.

King, S., Campbell, J., Rowe, R., Daly, M.-L., Moncrieff, G., and Maybury, C. “A systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of azelaic acid in the management of acne, rosacea, melasma and skin aging.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15923.

U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Azelex (azelaic acid) Cream 20% Prescribing Information.