Active Ingredient – Cosmetic Uses in Functional Skin and Hair Care

What Is an Active Ingredient?

An active ingredient is an ingredient selected because it is intended to provide a defined cosmetic effect in the finished product. Examples include ingredients used to moisturise the skin, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin texture, provide antioxidant protection, condition hair or support an even-looking complexion.

The term “active ingredient” is widely used in cosmetic formulation and marketing, but its precise regulatory meaning depends on the market. An ingredient described as an active in cosmetic development should not automatically be considered a medicinal active ingredient.

Concentration and Formulation

The concentration of an active ingredient is an important consideration. The concentration required for formulation performance may be different from the concentration used to support a particular cosmetic claim.

An active ingredient should be evaluated for:

• Solubility
• Stability
• Compatibility
• pH sensitivity
• Temperature sensitivity
• Interaction with other formulation components

Some actives are sensitive to oxygen, light or heat and may require specific processing conditions or protective packaging. Others may require encapsulation or a particular delivery system.

The supplier specification should also be reviewed carefully, as the same INCI ingredient can be supplied in different grades, concentrations or delivery systems.

Cosmetic Claims and Efficacy

When an active ingredient is used to support a cosmetic claim, the evidence should be appropriate to the claim being made.

Ingredient literature can provide useful background information, but evidence relating to an isolated ingredient does not automatically demonstrate the efficacy of the finished cosmetic product. Where appropriate, finished-product testing can provide stronger support for cosmetic claims.

Ingredient Information

Ingredient Type: Functional cosmetic ingredient
CAS / EINECS/EC: Not applicable to the general term “active ingredient.”

References

Barel, A. O., Paye, M. and Maibach, H. I. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

European Commission. CosIng – Cosmetic Ingredients Database.

European Commission. Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013.