An active ingredient is an ingredient selected because it is intended to provide a defined cosmetic effect in the finished product. Examples include ingredients used to moisturize the skin, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin texture, provide antioxidant protection, condition hair or support an even-looking complexion.

The term "active ingredient" is widely used in cosmetic formulation and marketing, but its precise regulatory meaning depends on the market. An ingredient described as an active in cosmetic development should not automatically be considered a medicinal active ingredient.

The concentration of an active ingredient is an important consideration. The concentration required for formulation performance may be different from the concentration used to support a particular cosmetic claim.

Formulation Considerations

An active ingredient should be evaluated for solubility, stability, compatibility, pH sensitivity, temperature sensitivity and interaction with other formulation components.

Some actives are sensitive to oxygen, light or heat and may therefore require specific processing conditions or protective packaging. Others may require encapsulation or a particular delivery system.

The supplier specification should be reviewed carefully because the same INCI ingredient can be supplied in different grades, concentrations or delivery systems.

Claims and Efficacy

Where an active ingredient is used to support a cosmetic claim, the evidence should be appropriate to the claim being made.

Ingredient literature can provide useful background information, but evidence relating to an isolated ingredient does not automatically demonstrate the efficacy of the finished cosmetic product. Where appropriate, finished-product testing can provide stronger support.

References

Barel, A. O., Paye, M. and Maibach, H. I. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

European Commission. CosIng – Cosmetic Ingredients Database.

European Commission. Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013.

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