Knowledge Base
What Is Cosmetic Formulation?
Cosmetic formulation is the process of selecting and combining different raw materials to create a finished cosmetic product with specific functional, sensory and aesthetic properties. These products can include skincare, haircare, makeup, body care and other personal care products.
A cosmetic formula may contain a combination of natural ingredients, synthetic raw materials, oils, extracts, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives, active ingredients, fragrances and other functional components. Each ingredient has a specific role within the formulation, and the way these ingredients are combined determines the final product's texture, stability, appearance, sensory profile and performance.
The formulation process is therefore much more than simply mixing ingredients together. A successful cosmetic formula requires an understanding of ingredient compatibility, processing conditions, product stability, microbiological protection and the intended consumer experience.
Key Elements of Cosmetic Formulation
Ingredient Selection
The first stage of formulation is identifying the appropriate raw materials for the desired product. Ingredients are selected according to their functionality, compatibility, performance, regulatory status and suitability for the intended product concept.
For example, a moisturising cream may require a combination of emollients, humectants, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives and active ingredients. The exact selection depends on the desired skin feel, performance and positioning of the final product.
Formula Development
Once the ingredients have been selected, they need to be combined in carefully determined proportions. The concentration of each ingredient can have a significant effect on the stability, texture, appearance and performance of the finished product.
Formulation development involves creating and refining prototypes until the desired characteristics are achieved.
Texture and Sensory Properties
The sensory experience of a cosmetic product is an important part of formulation development. Factors such as viscosity, spreadability, absorption, after-feel, colour, fragrance and overall texture all influence how consumers perceive a product.
A formulation therefore needs to perform effectively while also delivering the intended sensory experience.
Stability
A cosmetic formulation must remain stable throughout its intended shelf life. Stability testing can be used to evaluate factors such as changes in appearance, colour, odour, viscosity, pH and phase separation under different storage conditions.
The compatibility between the formula and its packaging can also be an important consideration during development.
Preservation and Microbiological Safety
Products containing water or other ingredients that can support microbial growth require an appropriate preservation strategy. Preservatives and other preservation technologies are selected according to the formulation, packaging, intended use and applicable regulatory requirements.
Microbiological testing is an important part of validating the safety and stability of the finished product.
Types of Cosmetic Formulation
Skincare Formulation
Skincare formulation includes products such as creams, lotions, serums, cleansers, masks and treatments. Depending on the product concept, formulations may be designed to provide hydration, cleansing, conditioning, soothing or other cosmetic benefits.
Haircare Formulation
Haircare formulation covers products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, treatments, styling products and scalp care products. Formulators consider factors including cleansing performance, conditioning, hair feel, viscosity and compatibility with the hair fibre.
Makeup Formulation
Makeup formulation involves the development of products such as foundations, concealers, lip products, mascaras and other colour cosmetics. Pigment dispersion, texture, coverage, stability and application properties are among the key formulation considerations.
Personal Care Formulation
Personal care products such as body washes, deodorants, hand creams and other cleansing or conditioning products require formulation approaches tailored to their specific functions and intended use.
The Cosmetic Formulation Development Process
Concept and Product Brief
Formulation development typically begins with a product concept and a detailed brief defining the desired product characteristics, target consumer, positioning, claims, packaging and commercial requirements.
Prototype Development
The formulation team then develops initial prototypes based on the product brief. Different ingredients, concentrations and processing conditions may be evaluated to identify the most suitable formulation approach.
Testing and Optimisation
Prototypes are evaluated for their physical properties, stability, sensory characteristics and other relevant performance parameters. Based on the results, the formulation is adjusted and refined.
Scale-Up and Manufacturing
Once the formulation has been finalised, the manufacturing process needs to be transferred from laboratory scale to production scale. Processing order, mixing conditions, temperature, homogenisation and other manufacturing parameters can all affect the final product.
Regulatory and Safety Assessment
Before a cosmetic product is placed on the market, the formulation and finished product must meet the applicable regulatory and safety requirements for the target market. The formulation, ingredients, claims, packaging and supporting documentation all need to be considered as part of the product development process.
Why Professional Formulation Expertise Matters
Developing a successful cosmetic product requires more than selecting popular or trending ingredients. Ingredients need to work together within a stable and safe formulation, while also delivering the intended sensory experience and product performance.
Professional formulation expertise helps identify appropriate raw materials, optimise their concentrations, resolve compatibility and stability challenges, and translate a product concept into a commercially viable finished formula.
For brands developing a new cosmetic product, working with an experienced formulation team can significantly reduce development risks and help move a concept from the initial brief to a tested, production-ready formulation.
Extrusion Blow Moulding is the process of manufacturing plastic bottles by melting plastic resin and extruding a tube which is them clamped inside two halves of a water-cooled mould.
This tube of plastic is then inflated using pressurized air to the shape of the cavity. While inside, the plastic will freeze off to the shape as it is forced against the inside. The mould will then open, releasing the bottle so that the process can be repeated.
One of the many benefits of the extrusion blow moulding process is the flexibility to change the necks without having to change the entire mould. This customizable solution enables customers to use differing neck fitments on the same bottle mould, eliminating the need for a completely new mould each time, which can prove more cost effective.
What are the advantages of this process?
Extrusion blow moulding is a highly versatile process that can provide unique shapes, sizes and neck types, using a variety of plastics. This versatility gives an overwhelming advantage over the bottle manufacturing processes.
One of the most common resins used in blow moulding is HDPE (high density polyethylene). Although opaque in its natural state, a high gloss feel and appearance can be achieved too.
For a squeezable feel, MDPE (medium density polyethylene) can be used for products such as creams and lotions.
Key advantages:
- Offers good resistance to alcohol, acids and alkalis
- Produces bottles with high stiffness
- Allows forn interchangeable neck moulds
- Easily recycled
- Can be moulded to produce complex shapes and sharp contours
FDA stands for US Food and Drug Administration. Cosmetics are regulated under FDA. The Food and Drug Administration is responsible for protecting the public health by ensuring the safety, efficacy, and security of cosmetics.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Has Broad Authority to Regulate Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
Strong federal safety requirements govern cosmetics and personal care products sold in the U.S. It is a crime to market unsafe cosmetics products. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the U. S. Attorney General (AG) can take action against any company that markets an unsafe cosmetics product. The law provides severe penalties, including seizures, recalls, fines and bans, for cosmetics and personal care products manufacturers that do not meet these strict requirements.
DID YOU KNOW: All cosmetics and personal care products manufacturers are required by federal law to substantiate the safety of their finished products and ingredients.
The FDA has wide-ranging regulatory authority that helps to ensure the safety of cosmetics and personal care products. In the past, the FDA has infrequently had to exercise this power to limit or prohibit ingredients that it considered to be unsafe. Cosmetics and personal care products companies are committed to upholding strict FDA regulations.
The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) of 1938 and the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022 requires that every cosmetics product and its individual ingredients be substantiated for safety and that product labeling be truthful and not misleading. Cosmetics manufacturers are responsible for ensuring that products comply with the law before they are marketed. This process includes analyzing a cosmetic ingredient’s testing and safety data. If the manufacturer is unable to substantiate the safety of a product, the law requires the product to carry a conspicuous warning stating that its safety has not been substantiated.
The law provides severe penalties for products that do not meet these standards. Specifically, the law gives the FDA authority to:
- Ban or restrict cosmetics ingredients for safety reasons
- Mandate warning labels
- Inspect manufacturing facilities and records
- Issue warning letters
- Seize unsafe or misbranded products
- Prohibit unlawful activities
- Prosecute and jail violators
- Mandate product recalls
- Collect samples for examination and analysis as part of cosmetics plant inspections, import inspections and follow up to complaints of adverse reactions
- Conduct research on cosmetics and personal care products and ingredients to address safety concerns
- In addition to the FD&C Act and MoCRA, the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act authorizes the FDA to require ingredient labeling of cosmetics and personal care products sold to consumers. Detailed FDA regulations govern where and how ingredients must be listed on the package.
Cosmetics’ continued safety is ensured by the FDA’s regulatory program, as well as additional safety measures undertaken by the cosmetics and personal care products industry and the decades of safe use by consumers who trust and enjoy them every day.
Source: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/
What Are Fatty Acids?
Fatty acids are organic compounds that form important components of many vegetable oils and other lipid-based cosmetic ingredients. Vegetable, nut, seed and kernel oils are often complex mixtures containing fatty acids with different carbon chain lengths and compositions.
In cosmetic formulation, the fatty acid profile of an oil has a significant influence on its properties and potential applications. Different oils can therefore provide different levels of emollience, occlusivity, skin conditioning and sensory performance.
Fixed vegetable oils are among the simplest and most established approaches for improving the feel and appearance of dry skin.
Fatty Acids and Dry Skin
Occlusive Properties
Many vegetable oils can form a protective layer over the skin surface. This occlusive effect can help slow transepidermal water loss (TEWL), allowing more water to remain within the stratum corneum and upper layers of the skin.
The degree of occlusivity varies between oils and is influenced by their composition and physical characteristics.
Supporting Skin Hydration
By reducing water loss from the skin surface, occlusive oils can help support hydration within the stratum corneum. This can be particularly useful in formulations designed for dry or dehydrated skin.
Improving the Appearance of Rough Skin
Vegetable oils can also help improve the appearance and feel of dry, desquamating skin. By coating the skin surface and helping to smooth down loose skin cells, they can make rough or scaly skin appear softer and more even.
Vegetable Oils Rich in Fatty Acids
Coconut, Sunflower, Safflower, Rapeseed and Sesame Oils
Coconut, sunflower, safflower, rapeseed and sesame seed oils are examples of fixed vegetable oils commonly used in cosmetic formulations.
These oils can provide effective skin coverage and are frequently used as carrier oils, including as carriers for essential oils. Their ability to coat and condition the skin also makes them useful in formulations targeting dryness and skin comfort.
Castor Seed Oil
Castor seed oil, derived from Ricinus communis, is particularly notable for its high gloss and strong occlusive properties.
Its high gloss makes it a frequent component of lipsticks and lip salves, while its occlusive characteristics make it useful in protective skincare formulations. A traditional example is zinc and castor oil cream, which has historically been used in products for protecting the skin in areas such as the nappy or diaper area.
Evening Primrose Oil
Evening primrose oil, derived from Oenothera biennis, is notable for its content of gamma-linolenic acid (γ-linolenic acid).
Its fatty acid composition makes it an interesting ingredient for cosmetic formulations focused on skin conditioning and emollience.
Borage Seed Oil
Borage or starflower seed oil, derived from Borago officinalis, is another vegetable oil particularly rich in gamma-linolenic acid.
This makes it a useful source of this fatty acid in cosmetic formulations and an interesting option for products designed around skin conditioning.
Blackcurrant Seed Oil
Blackcurrant seed oil, derived from Ribes nigrum, is also notable for its gamma-linolenic acid content.
Its fatty acid profile makes it suitable for formulations where a specialised plant oil is desired for its emollient and conditioning characteristics.
Specialty Vegetable Oils
Inchi Oil
Inchi oil, derived from Plukenetia volubilis, became commercially available as a cosmetic oil in the mid-2000s. It is also known as Sacha Inchi or Aztec peanut, although it is botanically unrelated to the peanut (Arachis hypogaea).
The oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, including omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which make it an interesting ingredient for cosmetic skincare formulations.
Rose Hip Seed Oil
Certain rose hip seed oils, including oil obtained from Rosa aff. rubiginosa, are known for their fatty acid content and traditional use in skincare.
The original A&T Formulation content notes that some references associate this oil with vitamin A and reports anecdotal clinical evidence relating to skin elasticity and the appearance of hyperpigmented scar tissue.
These traditional and reported uses make rose hip seed oil an interesting ingredient for cosmetic formulations targeting skin conditioning and the appearance of uneven or aged skin.
Choosing Fatty Acid-Rich Oils for Cosmetic Formulation
Consider the Fatty Acid Profile
The fatty acid composition of an oil is an important factor when selecting it for a cosmetic formulation. Different fatty acids and their relative proportions can influence the oil's sensory characteristics, stability and skin-conditioning properties.
Consider Oxidative Stability
Oils containing high levels of unsaturated fatty acids can be more susceptible to oxidation. Formulators therefore need to consider oxidative stability, antioxidants, packaging and processing conditions when working with these materials.
Consider the Intended Skin Benefit
The choice of vegetable oil should reflect the desired function of the finished product. Highly occlusive oils may be appropriate for protective formulations, while lighter oils may be selected where a different sensory profile is desired.
Consider the Finished Product
The same oil can behave differently depending on the overall formulation. Its interaction with emulsifiers, other oils, active ingredients and the final product structure needs to be considered during formulation development.
Fatty Acids in Cosmetic Formulation
Fatty acids and fatty-acid-rich vegetable oils provide formulators with a broad range of options for improving the sensory and functional properties of skincare products.
Their ability to condition the skin, support hydration by reducing water loss and improve the appearance of dry or rough skin makes them particularly valuable in moisturisers, protective creams, lip products, body care and other emollient formulations.
The selection of the appropriate oil should ultimately be based on its fatty acid profile, stability, sensory characteristics, intended cosmetic function and compatibility with the complete formulation.
References
Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic Development – Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts.
Skin scrub agents or body polishers are solid materials from natural origin (fine powder of seeds or shells of different vegetables), or are obtained by chemical synthesis (tiny beads of styrene or polyethylene). When the scrub agent–containing body-cleansing product is rubbed or massaged onto the skin, fine solid particles remove superficial skin horny layer by mechanical abrasion, leaving behind a fresh, smooth skin surface.
They are the easiest additives for the consumer to perceive. Scrubbing particles can be suspended in liquid body cleanser thanks to structuring polymers like xanthan gum or carrageenan, which build a viscoelastic network in the surfactant matrix. The scrubbing agent must be carefully selected when formulating facial cleansers. The skin on the face is more sensitive or delicate than that of the rest of the body. For facial application, the formulator should orientate his choices towards, e.g., soft clays or melting jojoba beads.
Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach
The antibacterial activity of Eucalyptus globulus leaf extract was determined for 56 isolates of Staphylococcus aureus, 25 isolates of Streptococcus pyogenes, 12 isolates of Streptococcus pneumoniae and seven isolates of Haemophilus influence obtained from 200 clinical specimens of patients with respiratory tract disorders. Leaves contain 70-80% eucalyptol (cineol). Also includes terpineol, sesquiterpene alcohols, aliphatic aldehydes, isoamyl alcohol, ethanol, terpenes. Tannin is not so copious in the leaves as of many other Eucalyptus species. The kino, containing 28,7% kino tannin and 47,9% catechin contains the very antibiotic citriodourol. Fresh leaves contain caffeic and gallic acids, dry leaves, ferulic and gentisic, and quercetol, quercitrine, rutin, and a mixture of quercetol hyperoside and glaucoside. N-titriacontan-16, 18-dione was identified as the compound responsible for antioxidant activity in the leaf wax.
(CAS: 84625-32-1/EINECS: 283-406-2)
Esters are the product of the reaction of any acid (usually organic) and alcohol. Common fatty acids are caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic and behenic acids, and dicarboxilic acids such as adipic acid. Common alcohols are isopropyl, n-butyl, ethylhexyl, myristyl or oleyl alcohol, as well as polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, polyglycerol, propylene glycol and glycerol. A wide range of combinations can be used to produce the large range of synthetic esters available to the cosmetic industry.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
What Is Candelilla Wax?
Candelilla Wax is obtained from the above-ground parts of wild Euphorbia cerifera. The plant is dried and boiled in water, after which the wax is separated by decanting. Crude candelilla wax is dark brown and is refined to produce a pale yellow wax.
Candelilla Wax is remarkably hard but has relatively low crystallinity. At higher temperatures, it also exhibits a certain degree of tackiness.
Key Properties of Candelilla Wax
Hardness and Structure
Candelilla Wax provides hardness and structure to cosmetic formulations and is particularly useful in solid products.
Oil-Binding Capacity
Its resin and sitosterol content, together with esters, gives candelilla wax an excellent capacity for binding ester oils.
Melting Point
Its melting point is approximately 72°C, placing it between beeswax and carnauba wax. This makes it useful for controlling the consistency and melting behaviour of cosmetic products.
Gloss and Contraction
Candelilla Wax provides a high surface gloss and has satisfactory contraction properties, which are particularly useful during lipstick manufacturing and demoulding.
Cosmetic Applications
Candelilla Wax is especially suitable for:
- Lipsticks
- Lip balms
- Decorative cosmetics
- Solid oil-based formulations
In lipsticks, it contributes hardness, oil binding and surface gloss while its contraction properties support easier demoulding during manufacturing.
Ingredient Information
INCI: Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
CAS: 8006-44-8
EINECS/EC: 232-347-0
References
Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice – Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters.
What Is Açai Oil?
Açai (Euterpe oleracea) is a palm native to the Amazon rainforest. Its fruit has been traditionally used for centuries in food, medicine and cosmetics and has become an important Brazilian export product.
The fruit pericarp contains approximately 25–50% oil. Açai Oil is characterised by a high content of oleic acid, followed by palmitic and linoleic acids. It also contains palmitoleic acid, which is relatively uncommon among vegetable oils.
Açai Oil is rich in phenolic compounds, including ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, syringic and vanillic acids, as well as procyanidin dimers and trimers. These compounds contribute to the oil's oxidative stability.
The oil has a dark-green colour, a characteristic sweetish odour and a slightly higher viscosity than many conventional vegetable oils.
Key Properties of Açai Oil
Antioxidant Properties
The phenolic compounds naturally present in Açai Oil contribute to its antioxidant properties. In vitro studies have demonstrated antioxidant activity, making the oil interesting for cosmetic formulations focused on protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
Emollient Properties
Açai Oil provides emollient properties and can help improve the skin's softness and smoothness. Its relatively high palmitic acid content also makes it an interesting alternative to some vegetable butters, while providing a lighter, less greasy skin feel.
Rich in Fatty Acids
The combination of oleic, palmitic, linoleic and palmitoleic acids gives Açai Oil a distinctive fatty acid profile and contributes to its cosmetic functionality.
Cosmetic Applications
Mature Skin Care
Açai Oil is commonly used in products formulated for mature skin, where its antioxidant and emollient properties can support a smoother, conditioned and healthy-looking appearance.
Moisturisers and Creams
Its emollient properties make Açai Oil suitable for creams, lotions and other moisturising formulations where a pleasant, conditioned skin feel is desired.
Anti-Ageing Formulations
The antioxidant properties of Açai Oil make it relevant to cosmetic products targeting the visible signs of skin ageing and environmental oxidative stress.
Hair and Body Care
Açai Oil can also be incorporated into conditioning formulations for skin and hair where its emollient properties and distinctive botanical positioning are desirable.
Formulation Considerations
Açai Oil has a strong dark-green colour, which should be considered carefully when determining its concentration in a finished cosmetic product. Higher levels may noticeably influence the colour of the formulation.
Its high oleic acid content should also be considered when developing products intended for frequent or long-term use, particularly when selecting the overall fatty acid profile of the formulation.
Ingredient Information
CAS: 861902-11-6; 879496-95-4; 906351-38-0
EINECS/EC: 617-812-1
References
Source: Modern Cosmetics – Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač.
European List of Notified Chemical Substances, that is, the list of substances marketed as of 18 September 1981 and notified under Directive 67/548/EEC. The latest edition of the ELINCS List can be consulted from https://op.europa.eu/en/publication-detail/-/publication/
c33bef79-ce30-43ab-accd-d596341cddff.
Source: https://ec.europa.eu/
Ectoin is a skin conditioner and also functions as a stabiliser. The skin is exposed to numerous stress factors. The better the cells can cope with the stress, the more intensive is the protection of the skin. Ectoin is a natural, active substance with very good membrane and cell protection properties and these are reasons why it is used widely in the cosmetics industry today. It has been shown to some extent that ectoin helps protect skin from UVA damage.
(CAS: 96702-03-3/EINECS:not found)
What Is an Emulsion?
An emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that are normally immiscible, meaning they do not naturally blend together. Because of their different properties, these liquids tend to separate into distinct phases.
Emulsions belong to the broader class of two-phase systems known as colloids. The word emulsion comes from the Latin word emulgere, meaning “to milk out”, reflecting the fact that milk is a naturally occurring emulsion of fat and water.
In cosmetic formulation, emulsions make it possible to combine oil-soluble and water-soluble ingredients in a single product while creating the desired texture, appearance and sensory characteristics.
Emulsions in Cosmetic Formulation
Emulsions are among the most widely used formulation systems in cosmetics. They are found in products such as:
- Creams
- Lotions
- Facial moisturisers
- Body lotions
- Sunscreens
- Cleansing products
- Haircare products
The ability to combine aqueous and oily ingredients gives formulators considerable flexibility when designing products with different textures, application characteristics and skin-conditioning properties.
Types of Cosmetic Emulsions
Cosmetic emulsions are generally classified according to which phase is dispersed and which phase forms the continuous matrix.
Oil-in-Water (O/W) Emulsions
In an oil-in-water emulsion, small oil droplets are dispersed throughout a continuous aqueous phase.
O/W emulsions are widely used for lotions, lighter creams and other formulations where a lighter, more easily spreadable sensory profile is desired.
Water-in-Oil (W/O) Emulsions
In a water-in-oil emulsion, water droplets are dispersed throughout a continuous oil phase.
W/O emulsions can provide a richer and more occlusive sensory profile and can be useful when developing products where a stronger oil-phase character is required.
How Are Emulsions Stabilised?
Because oil and water naturally tend to separate, an emulsion requires an appropriate stabilisation system.
A balanced surfactant or emulsifier system can help incorporate oils into an aqueous phase and maintain the interface between the two phases.
In cosmetic formulations, non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used for this purpose. Examples include:
- Polyglycerol esters
- Fatty alcohol ethoxylates
- Monoglycerides
- Sucrose esters
- Sorbitan esters
- Polymers
- Combinations of emulsifiers and stabilisers
The choice and balance of the emulsifying system are important factors in achieving a stable and aesthetically pleasing formulation.
The Role of Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers contain chemical characteristics that allow them to interact with both the aqueous and oil phases.
An emulsifier system associates primarily with either the oil or aqueous phase while having sufficient polarity to locate at the interface between the two phases.
By concentrating at this interface, the emulsifier helps reduce the tendency of the dispersed droplets to separate and supports the formation of a stable emulsion.
The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) System
The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, commonly referred to as the HLB system, is an important concept in emulsion formulation.
It describes the relative affinity of an emulsifier for water and oil. Selecting emulsifiers with an appropriate balance of hydrophilic and lipophilic properties can help formulators develop stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil systems.
The HLB system can therefore be used as one of the tools for selecting and combining emulsifiers during cosmetic formulation development.
Emulsion Stability in Cosmetic Products
A successful cosmetic emulsion needs to remain sufficiently stable throughout its intended storage and use period.
Stability can be influenced by several factors, including:
Emulsifier Selection
The type and concentration of emulsifier can have a significant effect on the stability and physical characteristics of the finished formulation.
Oil and Water Phase Composition
The composition and ratio of the oil and aqueous phases influence the structure, viscosity and sensory properties of an emulsion.
Emulsifier and Stabiliser Combinations
Combining emulsifiers with appropriate stabilisers or polymers can help improve the physical stability of the formulation.
Processing Conditions
The way an emulsion is manufactured, including the order of addition, temperature and mixing conditions, can influence droplet formation and the final structure of the product.
Emulsions and Cosmetic Product Development
Developing an emulsion involves more than simply combining oil, water and an emulsifier. The formulation needs to be designed around the desired product characteristics, ingredient compatibility and stability requirements.
The formulator must consider:
- The desired emulsion type
- Oil and water phase composition
- Emulsifier selection
- Emulsifier balance
- Stabilisation system
- Texture and viscosity
- Sensory properties
- Processing conditions
- Long-term stability
- Packaging compatibility
A carefully designed emulsifier system can therefore be central to achieving both the technical stability and the consumer experience expected from a cosmetic product.
Why Are Emulsions Important in Cosmetics?
Emulsions provide one of the most versatile ways to formulate modern cosmetic products. They allow oil-soluble and water-soluble ingredients to be incorporated into the same product while offering extensive control over texture, viscosity, application and sensory performance.
For this reason, understanding emulsion structure, emulsifier selection and stabilisation is fundamental to professional cosmetic formulation.
References
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice – Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters.
European Inventory of Existing Chemical Substances. An official inventory published on 15 June, 1990, that enumerates and describes the chemicals on the market of the European Union between January 1, 1971 and September 18, 1981 and identifies the chemicals being exempted of the mandatory 'precommercialisation' notification. The EINECS Inventory can be searched from different online sources including from the Publication Office of the European Commission.
Source: https://ec.europa.eu/
Dextrin. White dextrins are prepared by heating dry starch in the presence of an acid at a temperature generally below 150°C. The statement "ADI not specified" means that, on the basis of the available data (toxicological, biochemical, and other), the total daily intake of the substance, arising from its use or uses at the levels necessary to achieve the desired effect and from its acceptable background in food, does not, in the opinion of the Committee, represent a hazard to health. For this reason, and for the reasons stated in individual evaluations, the establishment of an acceptable daily intake (ADI) in mg/kg bw is not deemed necessary.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.
Dead Sea Mud. The thermal baths of the Dead Sea are contemporary to Great King Solomon. Their reputation of efficacy spread throughout the Antique world. Cleopatra imported salts from the Dead Sea for her beauty care. The Dead Sea is situated 400 meters below sea level. The water of the rivers that flow into it cannot flow out. It concentrates, evaporates, then progressively deposits treasures such as mineral salts and organic sediments eroded from the Judean Mounts. The salinity of the Dead Sea is thus 10 times higher than that of any other sea. Today, many countries encourage their citizens suffering from psoriasis or arthritis to make a stay at the thermal baths of the Dead Sea as the mud and salts bring relief from these distressing conditions. The much sought-after salts and mud are also quite famous for their remineralizing and purifying properties. The mud is highly recommended for seborrheic skin or skin suffering from acne, and Dead Sea mud is very efficient for skin care, to deep cleanse and also to be used to relieve painful joints. The black mud, rich in minerals, is composed of layers of clay sediments constituted as millennia passed. The concentration in minerals is high. The mud contains natural exfoliating agents with an action that purifies and tones the skin. As a result, the skin is more supple and smoother. In a mask, the mud can be used to balance and smooth the skin. The skin is cleaned in depth and as a result ends up nourished and better hydrated. In scrubs, it provides a light lifting to leave the skin fresh and revitalized. On the hair, in a mask or in a shampoo, it is used to clean the hair, get rid of excess sebum and rebalance the scalp. In products designed for body, it is said to favor cellular exchanges and slimming and helps to improve the elasticity of the skin. As the figure gets thinner, the skin breathes. Ideal for anti-stress cures or after birth, around the joints and to relieve pains. The salts of the Dead Sea bring a calming and relaxing effect. In a bath, they enable the body to feel well and are an ideal solution for body tiredness, muscular or nervous tension. In cosmetics, the salts purify, cleanse and remineralize the skin for a progressive come back to a healthy and supple aspect. Their beneficial aspect is furthermore improved when associated with warm applications of Dead Sea mud.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)
It is a curious fact, but there are no legal definitions of natural and this provides much subject for debate and litigation as law enforcement agencies argue interpretation with marketers of products placed onto the market.
We would define natural as any material that is harvested, mined, or collected, and which may have subsequently been washed, decolorized, distilled, fractionated, ground, milled, separated, or concentrated to leave a chemical or chemicals that would be available and detectable in the original source material. It is also the modification of natural material by the action of microorganisms, enzymes, or yeasts to modify or increase the yield of material by this process.
Naturally derived materials are defined by the use of a natural raw material as the starting point in a chemical process to produce a newchemical or chemicals that in themselves may not be available in nature or in the starting material.
Nature identical material is a substance that has been produced synthetically, not usually from a natural starting material, to produce a material that is identical to that naturally occurring in nature.
The concept of 'natural' is complex and lacks a universal definition. However, an ISO standard for natural ingredients has been established.
ISO 16128-2:2017 describes approaches to calculate natural, natural origin, organic and organic origin indexes that apply to the ingredient categories defined in ISO 16128‑1. This document also offers a framework to determine the natural, natural origin, organic and organic origin content of products based on the ingredient characterization.
ISO 16128 provides guidelines on definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. These guidelines are specific to the cosmetics sector, taking into account that most existing approaches written for the agricultural and food sector are not directly transferrable to cosmetics. They apply scientific judgment and offer principles towards a consistent logical framework for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products incorporating common approaches employed in existing references. The purpose of these guidelines is to encourage a wider choice of natural and organic ingredients in the formulation of a diverse variety of cosmetic products to encourage innovation.
Source: The internal and external use of medicinal plants - Anthony C. Dweck, FLS, FRSC, FRSH and iso.org
Diazolidinyl urea is primarily an antibacterial preservative, with activity against moulds but fairly weak anti-yeast activity. It has been widely used in many markets since its introduction in the 1980s. It is classified as a formaldehyde donor.
Diazolidinyl urea is highly water-soluble and should be added to the product at temperatures below 40°C to avoid decomposition. It retains its activity over a broad pH range, from pH 3 to 9. Typical use concentrations are 0.1–0.3%. Diazolidinyl urea is permitted in many territories, with restrictions.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the seeds of the cucumber, Cucumis sativus L., Cucurbitaceae. Sp.gr.: 0.922. Saponification value: 185. Iodine value: 125. Average carbon number: 17.9. Average molecular weight: 278.3. C14:0 0.1%; C16:0 11%; C16:1 0.5%;C17:0 0.05%; C18:0 7.5%; C18:1 17.0%; C18:2 64.0%;C18:3 0.5%; C20:1 0.05%; C22:2 0.1%. It also contains tocopherols 600-700ppm and phytosterols 4000-5000ppm. The seeds are rich in oil with a nutty flavour that is said to resemble olive oil and so is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The high levels of phytosterols should make it a useful ingredient in skin care products. It has been shown that phytosterols help the skin strengthen its lipid barrier and restores the moisture balance, smoothing the skin’s surface and improving skin elasticity. Phytosterols are also known to stimulate skin cells and encourage the regeneration of healthy skin cells. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes cucumber among the 20 most frequently consumed raw vegetables. Botanical and botanically derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.
Creatine. Glycine, N-(Aminoiminomethyl)-N-Methyl-. Creatine is naturally produced in the human body from amino acids primarily in the kidney and liver. It is transported in the blood for use by muscles. Approximately 95% of the human body's total creatine is located in skeletal muscle. Beiersdorf scientists show creatine benefits in anti-ageing and skin care products. A group of scientists from Beiersdorf Research and Development have completed research that states that the nitrogenous organic acid creatine could represent a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin ageing. Cutaneous aging is characterized by a decline in cellular energy metabolism, which is mainly caused by detrimental changes in mitochondrial function. The processes involved seem to be predominantly mediated by free radicals known to be generated by exogenous noxes, e.g., solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Basically, skin cells try to compensate any loss of mitochondrial energetic capacity by extra-mitochondrial pathways such as glycolysis or the creatine kinase (CK) system. Recent studies reported the presence of cytosolic and mitochondrial isoenzymes of CK, as well as a creatine transporter in human skin. In this study, we analyzed the cutaneous CK system, focusing on those cellular stressors known to play an important role in the process of skin aging. According to results, a stress-induced decline in mitochondrial energy supply in human epidermal cells correlated with a decrease in mitochondrial CK activity. In addition, the effects of creatine supplementation on human epidermal cells as a potential mechanism to reinforce the endogenous energy supply in skin. Exogenous creatine was taken up by keratinocytes and increased CK activity, mitochondrial function and protected against free oxygen radical stress. New data clearly indicate that human skin cells that are energetically recharged with the naturally occurring energy precursor, creatine, are markedly protected against a variety of cellular stress conditions, like oxidative and UV damage in vitro and in vivo. This may have further implications in modulating processes, which are involved in premature skin aging and skin damage.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)
Carrot seed oil extracted from daucus carota of the Apiaceae family and it is also known as wild carrot and Queen Anne’s lace. This is the essential oil extracted from the seeds and should not be confused with macerated oil made. A source of beta-carotene and provitamin A. Natural colour and skin nutrient. Often used in sun care products. It accelerates the formation of tissue and contributes to an irreproachable skin epithelium. Preparations containing carrot oil are also suited to the care of ageing skin with its tendency to cornification (and incipient wrinkling). In the case of dry and scaly skin, carrot oil stimulates the production of sebum, but not to excess. The skin becomes soft and supple as a result. Carrot oil clears the complexion, it gradually dissolves the hardened (cornified) cores of blackheads. The carrot oil contains a-pinene, carotol, daucol, limonene, b-bisabolene, b-elemene, cs-b-bergamotene, geraniol, geranyl acetate, caryophyllene, caryophyllene oxide, asarone, alpha-terpineol, terpinen 4-ol, gamma-decanolactone, coumarin and béta-selinene among others.
(CAS: 8015-88-1/EINECS: not found)
Cucurbita Pepo Seed OIl is the oil expressed from the seeds of the pumpkin, Pumpkin seed oil is a highly nourishing and lubricating oil, and is useful for all skin types where it is traditionally used to combat fine lines, superficial dryness. And to prevent moisture loss.
Traditional use: restores skin tissue, supports healing of skin wounds and sores, protects skin from UV damage and absorbs quickly into skin.
(CAS: 8016-49-7/EINECS: 289-741-0)
It has been popular for its cooling, soothing properties since Cleopatra was a girl, and it is still contained in a wide variety of anti-inflammatory, calming, hydrating and refreshing products. These include aftersuns, body lotions, eye pads, skin fresheners and moisturisers as well as treatments for oily skin and tightening agents for sagging or stressed skin. Among many of the virtues are that it is cooling to delicate and inflamed skin, soothing, smoothing and refreshing.In China, the name for this plant is HUa Gua, where it is also known as “Grandmother’s Younger Face Slave”.
(CAS: 89998-01-6/EINECS: 289-738-4)
What Is Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil?
Crambe Abyssinica, commonly known as Abyssinian Kale, is a herbaceous annual plant native to the Mediterranean region. The plant has also spread through Southwest Asia, Western Europe and other parts of the world.
The seeds contain approximately 30% oil. Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil has a distinctive fatty acid profile characterised by high levels of long-chain C20–C24 fatty acids, including gondoic, behenic, erucic and nervonic acids.
The oil has a light-yellow colour, a mild nutty odour and good oxidative stability.
Key Properties of Abyssinian Kale Oil
Rich in Long-Chain Fatty Acids
The high content of long-chain fatty acids distinguishes Abyssinian Kale Oil from many other vegetable oils. This composition contributes to its characteristic sensory and formulation properties.
Excellent Slip and Spreadability
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil provides good slip and spreadability, making it useful in formulations where smooth application and a pleasant skin or hair feel are desired.
Good Oxidative Stability
The oil's good oxidative stability is an advantageous property when selecting vegetable oils for cosmetic formulations.
Cosmetic Applications
Haircare Products
Abyssinian Kale Oil is particularly suitable for hair cleansing and conditioning products. Its slip and spreading properties can contribute to smoother-feeling, shinier and more manageable hair.
Lip Products
The oil is well suited to decorative cosmetics, particularly lip products where smooth application, slip and spreadability are important.
Skincare Products
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil can also be incorporated into skincare formulations for its emollient properties, helping to provide a smooth and conditioned skin feel.
Why Use Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil in Cosmetic Formulations?
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil combines a distinctive long-chain fatty acid profile with good oxidative stability, slip and spreadability. These properties make it particularly interesting for haircare and lip formulations, while its emollient characteristics also support its use in skincare products.
Ingredient Information
CAS: 91771-32-3
EINECS/EC: 294-419-5
References
Source: Modern Cosmetics – Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač.
The cosmetic products notification portal (CPNP) is a free of charge online notification system created for the implementation of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. When a product has been notified in the CPNP, there is no need for any further notification at national level within the EU.
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009EN(Article 13) requires that the responsible persons and, under certain circumstances, the distributors of cosmetic products submit some information about the products they place or make available on the European market through the CPNP.
The CPNP is making this information available electronically to competent authorities (for the purposes of market surveillance, market analysis, evaluation and consumer information) poison centres or similar bodies established by EU countries (for the purposes of medical treatment)
The CPNP is accessible to
- Competent authorities
- European poison centres
- Cosmetic products responsible persons
- Distributors of cosmetic products
Products containing nanomaterials
The CPNP also contains a separate module (Article 16) for cosmetic products containing nanomaterials. This notification has to be done in addition to the notification under Article 13. If the European Commission has concerns regarding the safety of a nanomaterial, it may request the scientific committee on consumer safety to perform a risk assessment.
Cosing stands for Cosmetic ingredient database.
CosIng is the European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients contained in the
- Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009EN of the European Parliament and of the Council
- Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EECEN (cosmetics directive), as amended
- Glossary of common ingredient names for the purpose of labelling cosmetic products placed on the market (as established by Decision (EU) 2019/701EN of 5 April 2019)
- Opinions on cosmetic ingredients of the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (list of SCCS opinions)
CAS, ELINCS or EINECS numbers can be searched for in CosIng.
The database includes all data since the adoption of the Cosmetics Directive in 1976. Current data is listed as 'active', while historical data is listed as 'not active'.
Please note that ingredient assigned with an INCI name that appears in the inventory section of CosIng does not mean it is to be used in cosmetic products nor approved for such use.
Concerning ingredients used in cosmetic products as colorants, preservatives and UV filters, only those authorised in Annexes IV, V, respectively VI to Cosmetic Regulation No 1223/2009 are listed in CosIng
CosIng may also list ingredients known to be used in medicinal products.
If, due to such ingredients, a product restores, corrects, or modifies physiological functions by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action, the product shall be qualified as a medicinal product. However, products that, while having an effect on the human body, do not significantly affect the metabolism and thus do not strictly modify the way in which it functions, may be qualified as cosmetic products.
The qualification of a product is to be decided by the national competent authorities, under the supervision of the courts, on a case-by-case basis, taking into account all the characteristics of the product.
In addition, the use of any ingredient in cosmetic products must be supported by a safety assessment of the product.
Reference data:
- Regulations: List of European regulations amending the Cosmetics Regulation.
- Annexes: List of annexes to the Cosmetics Regulation.
- Functions: List and definitions of possible functions of ingredients used in cosmetic products as
provided in the inventory. - Abbreviations: List of standard abbreviations used in the INCI names.